Recent content by KV4Runner

Maintenance is certainly important. I purchased it used off of Craigslist at over 300k miles and I saw many cases of neglect so I figured I would try it. There are enough online reviews to convince me that at the very least, it would be safe. For every 100 people that say these types of...

Honestly I didn't notice any difference. Engine didn't have any ticking before anyway. 314k miles. The oil was new and I do notice some carbon bits in the oil however.

An update. I purchased one of those battery tender products, the NoCo Genius from Amazon and let it do it's thing. Since then my battery has been reading perfectly. Even after a week of sitting around in 40-50 degree temps, it ready 12.4. Thanks all for your advice!

Before starting 12.43V Went on the highway for a 20 minute trip, parked, 12.7V. At dinner, drove 20 minutes home on the highway, parked, turned off, 12.7V.

Not yet, maybe Ill go tomorrow (Sunday).

About 5 hours later: Sitting 12.3V Started up, 14.47V Drove 3 mins up the road to the package store, turned off. Started back up, drove home 3 mins, 13.8V when parked but running. Turned off, 12.7V.

Thanks for the help all - much appreciated! Further testing this morning around 60 degrees F: First test 12.3V Started the vehicle (started quickly) 14.5V at idle, ran it at idle for 3 minutes 14.47 at idle after 3 minutes Turned off, resting voltage 12.76 Turned on front lights for 60 seconds...

Thanks, but what is the Diode Trio?

Thanks for the help all. So I jumped her and had a 13.5v reading while it was running. My research said that if my alternator was working properly, I would have 14.2. However, an "old timer" that worked on cars all his life told me 13.5 with no load was normal and I had no load when I tested...

Evening 1998 4 Runner v6. Bought a new battery last month and drove her about 3x. Today I went to take her out and it didnt start, click nothing. No lights, no juice whatsoever. Now, last month when I replaced the battery the connections on the battery were checked, cleaned, tightened so...

319k - bought it used last week and have been working on it like crazy. Starts quickly and runs good.

Like a dumbass I put the wires back in the wrong order and had a misfire. Thankfully I found a pic of the order on here and was able to fix it.

My saga (short version) The rear diff was rusted to hell and it took about 24 hours of PB blasting, hammering, straining until I finally tried the "car-jack-on-the-ratchet" trick and it worked. The oil was black and goopy but it was full. The transfer case nuts came off easily and the fluid...

Great guide thanks! Doing it now. The sparkies come from the factory at the proper gap according to the NGK website. They have a -11 after the stock # I wonder if that signifies the 1.1mm gap.