Recent content by Lug1

Confirming OP's message, the Hopkins solution works Bad converter here, same story as most of you. Using this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q7ZLO/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0 Was all that I needed. I was a bit worried with all the wiring mess that the product seemed to have, as I only need...

Seems like a normal cold weather start up to me. If you're not losing any fluids you shouldn't be (Oil, coolant), then it's just condensation/water in gasoline until the exhaust pipes are hot enough, then you stop seeing the fumes.

Yes, with the ranges you've specified - I don't recall a case in a 12V automotive system when with all accessories off, the alt' provided 13.5V and there were no complaints from the driver. In my small corner of the world, 13.8V and lower implies (possible) charging issue. It's either 14.1V+ ...

Matter of trust. If it would be someone you don't trust, then you could suspect they're avoiding a timely job that pays little extra = not worth it. If this mechanic is someone you'd never suspect pulling that - follow the advice.

Different mechanics have different grasp of what's a bad ball joint. If they're going to persuade you the OEM's are bad, let them make an actual check, "by the book". Some BJ's allow for play, and not all mechanics can diagnose the difference between allowed play and "bad play" properly...

13.5V when running is not normal, not good, I disagree with the oldtimer. Should be around 14.2V. Unless you have an exotic issue (bad wiring), this sounds like an alternator slowly going bad. Used Denso (OEM) alt's on ebay are ~$70. I'd put a tested alternator in your truck as first step...

I haven't read the whole thread, so I'm sorry if I'm repeating information here - In normal driving conditions, The rear (drum) brakes - get adjusted by actuating the handbrake. If your bell cranks are seized, there will be no adjustment (i.e movement of the shoes towards the drum), at all...

OP, tell us exactly what is your method of bleeding the brakes. Not the order of bleeding, but rather - how exactly do you bleed the brakes ? 2nd: If you apply the parking brake, can you move your car by pushing it ? (Careful, don't do this on an uphill/downhill road. Leveled surface only. )...

Unless an absolutely abysmal job was done on the BJ's and tie rods, what you're seeing/hearing should not have anything to do with them. You need to tell us more about the lift... if the geometry of the car has changed, many things are affected. If the car was factory height, then I'd say...

That's because a lot of mechanics are know it all primadonas, who refuse to learn new tricks. If you teach them that - that means you know something they don't - AND THAT'S A BIG DEAL. The real good mechanics end up working and making a lot of $$$ in custom shops, or running their own thing...

You'll have hard time proving it's their fault. Being it's not a brand new UBJ, what can you do really ? Some mechanics' method for removing BJ's, as mentioned, is whaling on the thing with a mallet so hard, it would make you go crazy, there are so many better methods, yet they keep doing it...

Yes, I applied gasket maker to 4 points on each cover.

Thank you everyone. I went ahead and torqued them in (6 NM), unfortunately I have oil dripping from the bottom left side (if sitting at driver seat). I torqued the bolts in gradually, used new washers (specific part for this bolt), applied gasket maker to the points specified in the manual...

Hi everyone, The covers are sitting with 2mm of gap from the cylinder heads. I made sure there are no obstructions, the gaskets are are set into their grooves on the covers. The same thing happens to both side covers (left and right), their top areas just don't sit well. Tightening the...

So.. after deciding to take a vacuum reading, I found this where I meant to plug in the gauge: So, I thought - yup, problem solved. After installing a new line, well - nothing changed :) Still needed to connect the vacuum gauge, here's how it looks like. Looks like a leak somewhere, still...