Recent content by MikeinNH67

I don't sweat the time side. I go more by looks and mileage plus how my cars are driven. I try to get them enough highway time monthly to burn off any moisture that may accumulate.

When the sway bar bushings are bad, you generally get a thunk under small stutter bumps. Any PS fluid in the bellows on the ends that are over the inner tie rod means the rack is leaking, it's toast. As for the steering u-joint, you can tell that is bad by moving the wheel back and forth while...

Should there be a picture in this thread? You mention seeing how it's pushed in but I don't see anything. The plastic bumpers can sometimes get their shape back with heat. Maybe remove it and leave it in the sun with some gentle persuasion or use a heat gun on low. I've seen some YT videos...

Why do I say the forum will stop working? From others comments, it's really old software with no good path to upgrade. Things are already not working as they should at times.

I sold the old girl this weekend. Really wasn't driving it much anymore and just don't have the ambition to keep patching the frame but will miss the truck. It's been nice having cars that are a decade+ newer and rarely having to get under them. This should give me more time for my 71 C10...

As mentioned, the outer wire is to shield electrical noise. Cut, splice, solder and use heat shrink with sealer in it over the solder joint. Tape the shielding wire back in place. If it runs without issue then you should be good.

I've only seen one completely fail and that was when I was a kid 40+ years ago on a family members neglected pickup. Anyone who pays minimal attention to the feel of their car will notice the extra play and clunking in their steering when a ball joint is getting really loose. Watch the tires...

I replaced mine with a used one. I don't recall it being hard, I think it was harder to get the old one out. There's a few videos on YT you can watch.

You don't mention if it's the inner or outer tie rod. Outer is slightly easier. For how cheap the parts are, I would think about doing both on that side. Once the outer is broke loose from the knuckle, you will be able to feel how loose both ends are. If the inner flops around easily, it...

This is what I'd do. ^^

Can you post a picture of what you are seeing on your rig?

Make sure you don't lose power because of a dirty connection, at times the high load of the starter can make a dirty connection show up. This can be seen by watching the interior lights as you turn the key. Assuming that is good, I would check voltage to the starter (at the starter) and the...

First thing I'd look at is the battery terminals. For this sort of thing, watching the interior lights is a huge help. 1)Door open or map light on, is the light bright when not starting. If not then dead battery or terminal issue 2)Does the light dim or go out when turning the key (very...

Stranded wire of the same gauge is all that matters. Color matching can be helpful for the future. Solder the connections and use sealable shrink tube to make it water resistant.

I would check the pickup again to see if it clogged back up. I had a similar issue with clogging plus a sticking relief valve but mine was because the former owner didn't think oil changes were needed. As soon as the oil came up to temp the pressure would start dropping to zero, I installed a...