Recent content by mswscco

I use one of these: Roadmaster Dual Hitch Receiver Adapter, 4" Drop/Rise Roadmaster Accessories and Parts RM-077-4 May need an extension depending on what your pulling to make sure there is enough clearance for a tight turn.

The "release switches" keep the seats in that tumbled forward and upright position. It's just a couple bolts to get the second row out, though. I did it a few times when I still had my 4th gen.

On my 2000, the cigarette lighter is on a different circuit from the 12V outlets. The outlets are #2 in the engine compartment (the cover has a diagram printed on the underside). The cigarette lighter is #24 in the cab.

I'm having the same problem. In my case, however, the light does work in the "Door" position if the key is in the ignition and set to the on position.

This is what came on my truck when I bought it. 3" spacer lift in front and aftermarket springs/shocks in the back (OME 891s and Tacoma 8000 series shocks). I find the ride quite decent, but I'm used to suspensions on the stiffer side too. Truck sits level when empty.

Glad to hear you got everything done. I also have 2 broken clip retainers. It's the same one in each panel, midway up and closest to the engine. At least you have the hardest part of the install done. Adding an amp is easy.

I haven't mounted my crossovers yet. They're just hanging out in the map pockets and after spending the last 3 days on washboard roads, I may just leave them there as I couldn't hear them moving. I had these speakers (the previous generation) in a different car and I did mount those inside the...

A custom bracket may fit, I'm not sure. I initially tried using the bracket that came with the speakers. By drilling a couple holes I could get the speaker mounted but it was not perfectly centered, probably shifted 0.5cm toward the engine and the door panel would not fit. The tweeter housing...

I just installed these in my 2000. Throw out the brackets that came with the speakers. They don't align with the factory mounting plate and you won't be able to get the door panel back on anyway if you use them. Easiest solution I found was to get the plastic bracket you pulled off the door...

One option is to just leave the rear speakers stock. Run a 4-channel amp to power front speakers and bridge the rear channel to run your sub. Then all you need is front speakers, amp, sub, head unit. I have Polk 6.5" components up front and a clearance Rockford hatchback sub and amp that I...

Wow, what a great find. Very nice set up and I think you got it at a great price. Trip to Sacramento is nothing for a rig like this. Will be in Big Bear for a few days this week for some camping. Probably going to stick to the main fire roads since it's just me and the family though.

Alas, I have neither the tools nor skills to do that. Unless you completely remove the plastic bracket in the door, however, I don't think those would fit. I am not using any adapter and the door panel is already pressing against the side of my speaker. On the other hand, my tweeters (I'm...

Running wires to the doors is actually pretty easy, so don't let that deter you from doing everything at once. The rubber boots come out pretty easily and there's plenty of space in them to feed wires. Disconnecting the 2 harnesses at the kick panel helps when you're getting everything apart...

Yes, 6.5 is the closest fit. Not exact (at least not with mine) but the closest you'll get to plug and play. I am running the speakers off an amp so did not use the factor wiring.

Ditto for me