Recent content by Mudeprived

Took this off my 99 Limited. Some surface rust and oil/dirt but totally solid. Only have three of the mounting bolts. $50+shipping TBD PM me if interested and for pics. I tried to upload but get error every time. Help? Thanks Chris

Sold the 99 and this was left behind. New but open box. Everything seems intact but one small parts bag is open. I cannot guarantee parts since there is no checklist. $50+shipping TBD PM me if interested and pics. I tried to upload but get error msg. Help? Thanks Chris

Sold the 99 and forgot about this parts box that was laying around. All parts included and will not split up. 90310-5006 x 2 Seal Type S Oil 90520-36045 x 1 (Japanese) 90463-40020 x 1 Bearing 43517-35010 x 1 Rotor, Skid Control 90311-47027 x 1 Seal Type T Oil 90313-48001 x 1 (Japanese)...

I didn't. I was able to pry off the side caps of the bearing with a pick, flush out the oil, then use a syringe to refill the bearing with synthetic bearing grease. So far so good but it will probably fail tomorrow now that I said that. :wacko:

Reminds me of my jeep when I had a half top. I would rather sell it and buy a Tacoma but they are like wood these days: $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

230 is when I fill her up too. Funny thing is the gauge has changed it's manners the last two months. It drops to E and light flashes when I fill it up and stays this way till I hit 40 miles then it kicks back up to full. Same behavior every time I fill up. I find this to be strange.

Just saw some in stock on Amazon recently. I should probably check mine. Replaced them in 2016 and got mine straight out of Japan. Took a few weeks shipping time.

I would love to get that kind of mileage. I have to fill up by 240 miles or it runs dry. My gauge has been in full retard mode the past month or so, dropping to E and flashing when it feels like it. I had it in for inspection two years ago and the mechanic said it was the gauge when I asked...

I no longer look for ads for vehicles I am looking to purchase these days. Prices are insane and most do not reply anyways. Instead, I stop and ask people I run into who are driving the rig I want to see if they are willing to sell it and I offer my name and number (and cash) in case they do...

Not saying I don't believe you, I am wondering what could be correcting the long crank when I leave key at "on". It literally starts like a new truck when I do this.

I am curious about this. I have a thread that I recently posted regarding longer than usual crank time. My 4runner always started up right away with no cranking. It has been taking about 3-4 seconds and sometimes have to try twice. A friend of mine on Irate4x4 said to turn key to ON for 30...

I would never consider spending that type of money on a vehicle with almost 300k miles regardless of the mods. That is silly.

My truck always started right as I turned the key to ignition. The longer crank time is very unusual. I never had a vehicle that didn't start right away. Even my 98 GMC k2500 with 210k miles starts right off the bat. It happens almost every morning after it sat all night or when I leave work...

About 2-3 seconds worth of cranking. There are times it won't turn over and I have to try a second time and it starts up right away.

My 99 started having long crank times before it would start. It only does this after it sat for a few hours or overnight. It starts normally when you turn the key to ON for 30 seconds or so before starting. There are no issues when driving or idling. Does this sound like the regulator? My pump...