Recent content by Nelsonmd

Well, I got rid of the 4runner about 4 years ago, but I don't think I ever really let it get to full droop while driving. I jacked it up and let them dangle many time with no ill effects. As i recall the ITRE's never had any issues and I would get them again.

I just traded Sheila in for a 2013 Subaru Outback LTD. I decided it was time when I found that my frame rails had rusted completely through in the typical spots, right above the rear LCA mounts. Since she probably didn't have a full winter left in her, I decided it was finally time. Anyway...

Oh, I'm so jelly!!! I have found a couple of these for a great price around here, but alas I dont' have a garage I can store it in... I need to buy a house....

My Pastor had a bone stock 96 that suffered an LBJ failure while drivin ghis son to school. I don't know anything about there being improvement in the middle of the gen. His failed LBJ had a boot with a small slit in it that I noticed when I worked on it previously, but he didn't get it...

In terms of the shear/bending load on that post, thicker would be better, but as I said, I am not convinced that a uniball is any stronger than the stock LBJ if you don't change the loading geometry. It's still the ball being pulled out of the cup/race Looking at that bolt, it looks like it's...

Yeah, the snorkel doesn't work well if you have a big 4" hole in the airbox...

I'm failing to see the advantage of this... You still haven't changed the loading on the ball joint. The suspension is still pulling the ball out of the cup, same as the flawed OEM design. You would still be relying on the material of the uniball being just as strong as the OEM LBJ. The only...

Yeah, I have alot of pity that you lost this 4runner engine, but to be honest, having read the arguments on whether the deckplate mod actually gains any benefits, and the lack of hard evidence that it does, I gotta give the I told you so of "this is why it's a bad mod". The stock intake I'm...

You really need to test them, and just inspect the rubbers closely. If they are completely tight and the rubbers are good, then maybe you're ok. If there is even a little play, or if the rubber has even pinholes in those cracks (or the crack going most of the way through), then I say just...

Haha! Nice... Got any data? I know you are just talking casual, but that stuff is not hands down the best. It's probably fine, but it not just "the best hands down" He was being sarcastic. Pretty much all the tube greases you find are lithium base. Both Moly and MP are lithium soap...

Don't worry about it. Use the same in all of them. Either Moly or regular is fine as long as you keep it greased.

Does it shift really quickly to? If you are a little high on tranny fluid, it may shift immediately, and clunk as you shift.

1. Get the seal drivers from HF for $40, do it yourself, seals are IIRC less then $15, so about $60 total. 2 & 3. Do the brakes yourself. It may be a bit tough the first time you do it if you have alot of rust, but it's definitely worth learning. Shops/Dealers are not all that trustworthy...

He did have to replace a transmission mount. Maybe that went bad and caused some kind of misalignment.

Well, here's the proof! Great job Toyota for using thin stamped sheet metal to connect the most important component to the second most important component... So I'll be around a bit longer... Actually, that low bill may mean ill stick around longer than I expected since some serious repairs...