Recent content by ninethings

Something tells me y’all are incapable of responding to the actual problem I'm experiencing and going off on coolant formulation opinion. Respectfully, stick to talking about the issue I’m posting about, all aluminum radiator failure points, or just keep it movin. If you want to discuss...

All valid points, but a bunch of engineers at champion say they’re radiators CANNOT take red so I went with that. Bunch of folks who have been running them for years and run them way way harder than I ever would in conditions harsher than where I live (boardering the Sonoran and Mojave deserts)...

These champion radiators take Yellow, per manufacturers specs. PAG oil isn’t a bad guess but as my radiator took 2gal to get back up to level I’m pretty confident it’s coolant lol

I pulled back in to work after lunch and saw a little drip in my parking spot. I didn’t park in exactly the same position in the spot, so I was looking around to see where it came from. I assumed oil, but it was yellow-clear. The radiator isn’t even 9mo old, didn’t even cross my mind it was...

I mean, I've seen clean tacomas of similar vintage go at auction for $25k+. I think the only place you might take the least hit would be an auction house, BaT or similar. Marketplace, etc., you're gonna be hurting... a lot. I bought my '02 sport edition 7yrs ago for $6.5k, super clean, 1...

that is sliiiick. I really dig it

I'm pretty sure if he or anyone else is asking advice on jumping terminals they're not really wanting to buy a $150 bit of kit to do the same thing. Like someone asking how to repack an OEM CV and another replying to just buy a set of $2,500 RCV's. And as stated, the link you provided is for a...

what? why?

This is the 3rd gen 4RUNNER forum... Not sure how you got here.

Yup, that’s the one

it really is a quick job if you have a few tools (35mm for the axle nut ((some aftermarket are 42mm I believe)) breaker bar, torque wrench, prybar and snips.) Can buy the napa version (lifetime warranty) to keep you going, reboot OEM and replace when needed. Really only takes 30min a side. Timmy...

Thats what everyone keeps sending me but thats the pre 01 OBD port thats under the hood. Ive just wanted to confirm either via someone just saying Yes, I've followed this method shown in that post OR have a pin layout to confirm layouts are the same. I know in my head there wouldnt be a reason...

And if you have an '01-'02 and do the zero point let me know if the pin lay out in the obd terminals are the same. All the write-ups I've been able to find have been pre-01 when the port was in the engine bay. None address the procedure with the port under the dash. I assume they're the same...

Sounds painful, hope you stretch beforehand

Though I will add, as for front to back level, that if you're unloaded now (rear cargo empty) the ride will likely even out once you have weight in the back, which is kind of ideal although I can see not wanting quite that a dramatic rake driving around every day. Just food for thought