So far, I have replaced the starter (OMG) and the battery. The battery was infinitely easier. There is no good way to get both hands around the starter and to the bolts. My arms have never been more tired after what should have been an easy replacement.
Unfortunately, the biggest issue is that...
I have what I thought was an original stock theft prevention feature. Before starting the car one must turn the lights on - or at least flash the brights. I purchased the car used. Is this an OEM feature or something that was added after?