The options are basically 250-350 for a rebuilt electrical motor, or the entire brand new OEM assembly for 700 plus shipping from various online dealerships. I figure since I'm paying the mechanic 430 bucks to install it, I might as well pony up the extra cash to get a the entire assembly brand...
Thanks, I figured as much. Yes there's near zero clearance and removing the entire master cylinder is more than I can tackle in my apartment's parking lot, so I bit the bullet and bought a new OEM pump+accumulator for $700 and will have the mechanic install it. It sucks dropping that amount of...
Ok thanks for the advice. I agree it seems semi impossible but I found two old posts here where people supposedly were able to remove the motor with a series of extensions and u-joint adapters. I've already loosened the front bolt, so if I can get the back one out, it's a matter of having...
Hello all,
The electric pressure boosting motor that sits under the master cylinder is dying. It wasn't building pressure nor activating and I had an alarm going with a stiff pedal and nearly no brakes. I got it to come back to life by hitting the side of the housing to unstick it and get...
even if you swap in a different motor, you've killed any resale value so it doesn't make financial sense. It's going to cost more to make it work anyway than just dropping in another motor.
don't sink money into it and figure out the quickest way to maximize the remaining value of the truck. The effort won't be worth it. The most I'd ever consider is to find one with a blown motor/trans and swap it over to the rust-free broken one.
No matter what you do, it's possible for the sand to be so churned up and loose that you'll still sink. I once tried to leave camp in a sport quad with paddle tires and the thing wouldn't get traction on a flat area because I was on a big sand hole that someone had dug then refilled with zero...