Recent content by shawn42

Not your fault at all, AuSeeker. I had already decided I was going to try that, and ordered the motors, before you made your encouraging comment. Just venting my frustration, because I really have no idea what I did wrong. I didn't even open the actuator completely; only enough to slide the...

At this point I'm at a loss for how to get the door opened. Once I do get it opened, I will not be attempting the motor replacement again. I'll be replacing the whole actuator. Running the risk of not being able to get the door opened at all is WAY too high a price to pay. I wish I had...

Yeah, unfortunately, I tried that with no success. Getting the rear door panel off with the door closed is nigh impossible. Ended up pulling it off from the top, up close to the window ledge. Ended up breaking the door panel in that process. But did manage to get access into the area where...

So, good news and very bad news. Good news is, the actuator motors arrived. I successfully replaced one of them. Now when the lock/unlock button is pushed, the lock responds accordingly. The very bad news is, apparently I screwed something up in hooking back up the door handle mechanism...

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm "old", but maybe not "old as dirt". New technology ain't ALL bad, though. YouTube makes so much possible for me that I would never attempt otherwise. But I like to think I'm fairly intelligent. And if someone can make a video showing me how to do something...

Haha! Already took the plunge on that. Found some instructive videos on replacing the actuator motors. Ordered these: Amazon.com: 2 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine : Automotive

On retesting, I was getting 10+ (but not 11 or 12) consistently. Is there a logical reason to think that 10 wouldn't be enough to get the job done? Is there a logical reason that I could be getting partial voltage to that location, but not sufficient voltage? I was assuming either I'd have...

So that would seem to indicate my problem is likely the actuator, yes? If it's getting power there, but nothing's happening...

Thanks. So now I now know generally how to use a multi-meter. But how do I apply that specifically for this test? How do I use it to test whether power is getting to the actuator? I know from the diagram that the wires go into pins 1 and 4, blue/black and blue/red respectively. I know the...

Watched a video on how to remove the rear door panel. Having never used a multi-meter, can you offer any guidance on how to use it to test for signal getting to the actuator? I found a wiring diagram. I found the diagram for the door lock motor rear LH (driver's side). I identified the wires...

Ok, got a multi-meter. Checked all the fuses that seemed possibly relevant, and a few that didn't, with the multi-meter. They were all good. Didn't check EVERY fuse. It had gotten dark and it was getting difficult to work. Am off work tomorrow, so will do some more checking during the day...

Thanks. Will try that and report back. Don't have a multi-meter yet, but it looks like there's a trip to the hardware store in my future.

I definitely checked fuse #34 under the hood (DR/LCK - Power door lock system - 20A). Not sure which other ones I should check under the hood. Or if I should just willy nilly start pulling fuses and check them all. In the cabin, under the steering wheel, I checked #15 (ECU-IG - Shift lock...

I've read a lot about power lock failures in TR4s over the past couple of days; on this forum and elsewhere. Lots of it about actuators that have failed, and how to replace them. And some posts about all the power locks on all the doors failing; or about unlocking working on all doors, but...

Hoping my 2007 (3rd owner) with 172K makes it that far.