Recent content by sportscarfan

Whenever this topic comes up I repost my experience - (not broken wiring, not control box) https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1471503-post5.html

Same story, but 13 years on here. Lots of maintenance, and only one fail (rear window key switch). Euro luxo comment hits home - I stretched a valve cover gasket-only job on my 21 year old S6 across a week it's so painful to work on.

Yes, the same thing happened to me years ago. Turned out to be the very short piece of wiring harness that is between the backside of the key/lock on the hatch and the harness in there. I removed that short piece of harness. The only functionality lost was rolling the window down with the key...

I have a '97 factory 5-speed... The RPM hanging may be a residual factor from the original automatic config. I can say that Redline MT-90 trans. fluid did make a world of difference in shifting from when I first bought mine 13 years ago. As for clutch engagement point - like just about the...

Sounds like it's a one minute fix if you know someone with a MIG welder.

Yes. In 2wd, the rear will easily come around in low traction situations.

I have engaged 4hi at near highway speed and easily run 60mph on snowpack in a Colorado blizzard with good winter tires, no problem. In 4wd, mine feels very planted.

With 85, 87, & 91 being the only widely available octane choices available here, I can confirm that running 85 in my 5VZ-FE (manual trans) will detonate/ping with load at low RPM. I tend to run 91 and get a pretty consistent 18-19. I do drive it fairly light footed though.

I have a '97 5-speed SR5. Yes, you can shift 2hi-->4hi or the other way while moving. I do usually push in the clutch just to give everything the best chance of sync. and I'm fairly deliberate with the shift to 4hi. As far as I understand the rest of your question....The transfer case does...

I thought Denver was getting bad 6 years ago when I bailed (after 20 years living there). I'm now 100 miles away, but I'll keep an eye out.

Drill only as a last resort. Chances of you drilling in the center, and keeping it on center are not good. Heat & welding a nut onto what is left should work. If you must drill, you will have better luck if you start with a center drill, which makes it easier to start where you want it due...

"You will own nothing and you will be happy"* *IF YOU SURVIVE

I think the part I mentioned (maybe better described as a penny-size-diameter plastic donut bushing) is only available with the window regulator #6980735010 ~$226

EXACTLY Thanks for taking the time to cover any/all 3g T4R maintenance & repairs Tim!!

Might be the plastic slider bushing that rides in the track - the one that subsequently lifts the window accessed by removing the metal panel on the passengers side of the hatch. There is a ball fitting on the motor side that snaps into a plastic bushing in the track. Eventually, the bushing...