Recent content by stackz

you probably did the same stupid thing I did when I replaced the cracked head on the 97 3.4 I just got finished working on. I had the intake cam installed 180* compared to the exhaust cam which was installed correctly. you're actually getting 3x better compression than I was lol. my...

no, the law isnt like that. there are lots of older cars running around in japan with their original engines. what it centers around is the vehicle tax. after a car reaches a couple years in age or certain mileage it starts to ramp up exponentially in taxes. This is to deter people from...

and the saga is finally over and I can give the truck back. joy has come to me. kinda funny though, toyota dealer wanted $190 for the valve with a 1 yr warranty. the valve was $220 after taxes at autozone...but was a toyota valve and had lifetime warranty, and came with the gasket too...

no, it can happen to a new plug as well. the outer case is porcelain, its tough but it can only take so much of a beating. the coil breaking down can release none of its capacity or all of it, or the regular amount or any in between as its lost its ability to regulate itself. thats also the...

normally when the coil breaks down and gives you the misfire under load...and then scores the porcelain, its on the upper section of porcelain on the outside (it'll look like a deep burn mark down the side and into the porcelain). you can see though on that piece in the inside middle where it...

wow, you're lucky that didnt fall off into the cylinder.

that still doesnt mean much. its been proven time and again that unless you get the whole front clip, half the time the mileage isnt correct. There's so many threads on honda-tech about it, its not funny. regardless, you can do what you want but I would still at least inspect the timing belt...

ok gotcha. figured it might be something like that.

so where did you pull this diagram from and is it what you used to give me the voltages? if so you gotta tell me how to read this properly lol. regardless, did the tests as instructed and I'm getting the proper voltages on each wire. when I grounded the brown/red and the /black/red wires...

I wouldnt trust an engine from the early 00's with a claim of 34k on it unless you saw the vehicle it came out of and could verify the odometer. even then...keeping an entire car at a junkyard that long intact is almost unheard of... basically, I'd do the timing belt, water pump...

I would not worry about the cylinder #4 issue right now what with the compression as good as it is. your issue is in cylinder #3 with the 105psi. if you have an air compressor, go rent a leak down tester...or just buy one from harbor freight. lots of tutorials on youtube. first order of...

yes, the plug could be shot. grab some of the uber cheap autolites from the parts store for $1.60 each and see if it goes away. or swap that plug with a different cylinder and see if the code jumps to the other cylinder if there's not visual damage to the porcelain on the plug, etc.

did you see the spark at the coil itself? if so then likely the coil was breaking down. pull the plug and look for burning down the side of the porcelain. a coil breaking down will find the least resistance path to ground which can be the metal plug base. once the porcelain is scored enough...

or just go to advance auto, autozone, oreilly auto parts or any of the similar type auto parts chains and rent a compression tester... you get all your money back when you bring it back to them. pull all the plugs out and disconnect the coils. screw the compression tester in the hole you want...

thats what I thought but wanted to make sure. I use the el cheapo harbor freight red multimeters and these things have done some funky things in the past. and I am by no means an electrical engineer lol