Recent content by TrkyMfns

Gorilla 21134ETBC are what I have on my RRW’s. Perfect fit.

Front-end clunks can be a major PITA. My method is to get under the vehicle while it is on the ground and try to duplicate the sound by checking for any loose components. A rubber dead blow hammer works wonders.

I would make sure that your alignment cam bolts are tightened to spec.

Why would they even bother with making a halogen version? You would think the hid/led versions would at least be out first.

I have one of the silicone frames. I recommend it. It stops any rattling of the plate and it frames it in a way that doesn't interfere with the design of the plate.

Wow. These look promising. I have been planning a retrofit to freshen up the frontend, but if these are decent, I may go this route.

Below are the parts I used and the prices I paid for them. All of the parts are OEM. Save a lot of money and buy the Koyo bearings. Koyo is the OEM supplier for our trucks and the part is exactly the same (even the PN printed on the bearings), minus the Toyota cardboard box. --- Rear Axle...

I recently replaced both of my rear wheel bearings and seals due to a leak that got all over the parking shoes. It turns out that the differential breather was clogged, so the differential vented through the axle oil seals. While you can just replace the seals, if the oil has leaked through to...

If by smart you mean voltage sensing, yes. There is an alternator sensing circuit that detects the output and adjusts for voltage drops.

Hard to tell due to the orientation etc, but it might be coming from your valve cover gasket and dripping down. I would start there. Have an Avalon that I just replaced the camshaft seals, timing belt etc. It had oil all over the bottom of the engine and power steering hoses caked in oil and...

Proper HID's in a vehicle that comes with them from the factory have always been my favorite. They throw light very far. I always figured they were better than LED's, but maybe I am wrong. HID's do suck in the rain though lol.

I should mention, I do not recommend powering anything directly off of these wires. You should use these wires as a trigger for a relay. The last thing you want to do is pull too much current through your factory electrical harness.

Parking light + Color: Green Polarity: Positive Location: dash fuse box, white 36 pin plug (2F), pin 16 Parking light - Color: Red Polarity: Negative Location: Body ECU on dash fuse box, white 30 pin plug, pin 30

I just did mine at 100k. It's very straight forward. I did a drain and refill with OEM coolant.

I would say the first step would be to figure out why the are warping, or rather what is causing the caliper/pads to hold onto the rotor when it shouldn't. In your instance it may be a lubrication issue, brake hose issue, fluid issue or piston seal issue. Either way, knowing that is beneficial...