Recent content by Virtual TWiT

Great info! Need more, please. Thanks for the great info and links. I'm coming up on 90K miles on my 2007 SR5 and I'm thinking ahead to changing the tranny's fluid. I'm planning on using the lines at the cooler. To my knowledge, the fluid has never been changed. I'm debating whether or not I...

Going RGB? One of my AC cluster lights died and I'm going to replace all the lights and get it over with. I really want to be able to vary the color and I'm thinking of designing an RGB system, perhaps with a separate needle color and remote control via an android app. And maybe syncing it with...

It's my turn I've put this off for a couple of years but this past winter the rubber got so hard I almost couldn't open the hatch a couple of times. I've got an inside switch mod just in case though. Until recently I didn't know if the rubber was a seal to keep water from getting inside the...

Thank you! I needed the info on whether or not the 'yota-side blue was the Pioneer-side blue/white.

Quick Thought Bad insullation somewhere along the starting system would cause what I'm seeing, including the lights flickering which could be caused by arcing. Hummmmmm. Edit: For what I'm seeing it would be the main alternator harness. Hummmm. The weather here isn't so good but it's supposed...

Narrowing things down Thanks guys for the help so far and I've narrowed it down somewhat. The battery was disconnected overnight. I had told the remote-start to start the day before (a handy tool since I'm not an Octopus with 10' arms) and it failed to start, then I disconnected power at the...

2007 4Runner SR5, 6cyl 4.0, 4wd, just over 72K miles, brand new 130A rebuilt alt, 6mo old 31M Diehard deepcycle AGM. I first noticed a flicker in the lights about two weeks ago that was intermittent. I can also hear the "static" of the varying voltage in my radar detector's speaker. It's not...

Found a Good Alignment! I found a shop in Dickson TN that knows what they're doing. The alignment guy has been doing it for about 20 years. I talked to him and he knew exactly what needed to happen. He knew the Camber needed to be a touch negative on it and did it by default. It still handles a...

Howdy Momo. Please send me your info for PayPal. :bounce:

To top it all off... The rattle that made me replace the shocks in the first place is apparently a broken LBJ (driver's side) which is leaking at the bottom of the boot. I jacked it up and I can get a definite wiggle out of it if I push it with my foot. So, here I go with more repairs. BUT it's...

Meonard covered that in post #9 above. It's doable via the LCA, but on a lifted one you'll never max it out to the high end of spec at 4*. Aftermarket adjustable UCAs and Caster Kits that replace the adjusters on the LCAs are options I'm looking into, but I don't have another $500 to sink into...

And... Thanks for all the input! I got under it yesterday to make sure the tabs weren't bent over and was relieved to see they weren't. BUT the small end of the CV boots on both sides have slung out a little grease. I didn't expect it but it didn't surprise me much. It's not even a teaspoon's...

Thanks! That was the tidbit of info I needed. Normally I would recommend camber set slightly positive. However in this case I would suggest dropping camber for better handling. As far as the pull that is most likely going to be a trial and error thing. With an altered suspension all bets are...

1.75" via the front shocks.

Thanks! That makes me wonder if it'd be simpler to drop the front to .8", align it again and see if it's better. I didn't want to have to replace the UCAs.