Recent content by WhiteGoat

The problem could be the link connecting the key portion is not connected to the rest of the lock. I had this problem after replacing my lock actuator. Didn't discover the problem until the vehicle battery was dead. I could turn the key but the lock would not operate. The fix can be accomplished...

I have had great success fixing vibrations by jacking the 4r up, loosening the lug nuts, centering the wheel on the studs, tighten the lug nuts with my fingers while slowly rotating the tire and wheel (slow rotation seems to keep wheel centered), then following a torque pattern tighten lug nuts...

I have the same problem. Unfortunately I found it when I had my battery out for replacement... Hood closed...tools locked in 4runner. My guess is the rod that attaches to the actuator assembly popped off. I plan on using the steps outlined in the door lock actuator replacement thread to remove...

I live in Tulsa and work in Broken Arrow. I'd be happy to take part in a meetup or outing.

I looked at a lot of pictures trying to figure out what my 4Runner would look like with x.xx" of lift. Ultimately, I put a few bottle jacks under the frame and went to lifting. Stopping a different "lift" heights as I went up. I was able to look at different front and rear lift...

I recently installed 5100 all around. Fronts set at 1.75 with factory springs. For the rear, I used Wheeler’s T13 springs. Actual lift gained was 1.8 front and 1.28 in the rear. I had the Toyota dealer do the alignment… got 3.6 caster on stock UCA. Thoughts: Like the damping provided by...

I noticed the same paint chips after my first outing. I now have a set of BudBuilt bump out sliders with full tread plate. The bottoms of the sliders are EXTREMELY chipped but my doors no longer get chips.