Recent content by Windsor

oh, whups, didn't think about automatic-based transfer cases. sorry about that. :)

not that I'm in the market (I just bought an '87), but you would do well to post location and pics (or url to pics).

gear oil (something between 75w and 90w, check your owner manual) and they make pumps (that look like liquid hand soap pumps) specifically to fill driveline parts.

helps if I re-read your first post. You can ignore my engine swap babble, that won't give you much reliability. :) I don't know enough about the 3.4 or newer 4Runners, so someone else will have to step in.

The low power is a known issue, there's an active thread on yotatech.com now about having to downshift for grades more than 2%. :) (I've noticed the same thing). A lot of folks complained about the 3.0 being finicky (head gaskets, etc) as well as wimpy, so don't bother with that. The most...

By "gutless", he means low-powered. :) It's true they were a bit weak on the power from the factory, but the blocks are solid and you can safely tweak a lot more HP out of them before you need to worry about the bottom end grenading.

Not only did they mis-represent the sale, but they deleted the listing after receiving my payment, which blocks me from returning negative feedback. :mad: To top it off, it's the exact same PDF as is in my post right above this one! :bash:

Yup. Grab the 1988 FSM instead -- http://granolaboy.net/temp/toyota_truck_and_4runner_88.pdf It'll cover your 1987 toy.

... and here: http://www.yotatech.com/f128/toyota-factory-service-manuals-fsm-all-years-156128/ (I looked it up for another thread on this bboard)

FSM links: http://www.yotatech.com/f128/toyota-factory-service-manuals-fsm-all-years-156128/ This is also a decent bboard to search for solutions.

If you don't have white smoke coming out of the tailpipe, I'd guess it was the head gasket (considering the overheating problem). Typically if you have a cracked head (usually between the valves), the piston draws water into the combustion chamber during the intake stroke.

Red Line, Motul, or Amsoil; depending on what you can get your hands on. IMO they're all "more than good enough", if you stay on top of maintenance. (check/replace if you do any forging, as well as periodically keep an eye on the levels and check for shavings)

careful with the eBay ones. I bought one and it turned out to be a CD. I found one on one of the 4runner-related bboards and downloaded it, I think it was 4crawler.org. FWIW, you don't need the specific year of manual, but one that covers the same generation. In my case, the download for...

Just in case you didn't know.. you really need the clutch alignment tool. If you don't have one, borrow/buy one. It'll save you hours of headaches.