I know theres alot of threads on this but when i was looking through them alot of the pictures wern't available anymore (for me anyway). Just thought I'd Through the info out there again incase anyones curious.
Edit: here is a sound video for reference: internal snorkel sound - YouTube
supplies:
drill (for hole saw) (sold at lowes/homedepot)
painters tape (sold at lowes/homedepot)
screwdriver flat and philips (sold at lowes/homedepot)
10mm wrench (sold at lowes/homedepot)
12mm wrench (or sockets) (sold at lowes/homedepot)
Variable heat propane torch (sold at lowes/homedepot)
2x- 3" ABS black plastic elbows (sold at lowes/homedepot)
20"- 3" ABS black plastic pipe (sold at lowes/homedepot)
large enough hole saw for three inch elbow, or cut off wheel for a grinder or drimel tool (sold at lowes/homedepot)
100% sylicone and applicator. (sold at lowes/homedepot)
6 pack of beer (sold at gas station on the way to or from lowes/homedepot)
a buddy to hang out with (priceless)
sterio for music


1.) remove air intake box assembly unbolt the the air box and set aside.
2.) remove passenger fender and passenger headlight. set aside
3.) remove factory rubber air director from factory airbox
4.) trim the factory rubber air director so that it looks more like a coupling for a pipe connection leaving the original connection to the air box the same.
5.) carfully heat the rubber air director so that it will stretch over your 3" abs elbow.
6.) place elbow and rubber pipe connection through the original air hole in your inner fender reconnect the base of the factory air box.
7.) point the elbow on the outside on this inner fender in the general direction you want to run the pipe. (allowing clearance for outter fender) max distance between inner fender and inside of the elbow coupling 1 1/2" on mine).
8.) use a sharpie to place indicator marks showing the direction the elbow is turned relevant to the direction in which the air box sits place a mark on the air box the coupling and the elbow so you can line these up in the future if needed.
9.) take painters tape and tape off area in which you'll be placing another hole for your 2nd elbow to pull air out of the vehicle. clean all the inner fender sufaces so sylicone can seal against the metal surfaces.
10.) theres really only one area you can bore a large enough hole for a 3" elbow (see pictures below) hold your elbow in place against the tape you put up and trace the outside of the elbow
11.) using whatever method of cutting you have avaiable cut the hole out keep in mind your ECU and wiring is right behind the area your cutting so keep your work shallow (theres about 2" from the outside of the inner fender to the face of the ECU) theres rubber and insullation just behind the metal to protect everything from sparks or metal shavings. As well the metal is only 1/16" thick if that maybe an 1/8" in a few places. I used a 1/4" drill bit with a depth gauge and poked serval holes around the inside of the hole I traced then used a drimel tool cut off wheel to complete the cut. dont go all the way to your trace line its helpfull to keep this fit tight to allow for better sealing later.
12.) once your hole fits the elbow inside remove the insulation and rubber pluging the hole place the elbow up there and cut about 20" worth of ABS 3" pipe. stick the cut pipe in one of the elbows and get an idea of where the pipe needs to bend.
13.) using an adjustable heat torch heat the plastic pipe being carefull not to melt it heat the pipe slowly for about 10 minutes if you go slow enough you can create a nice smooth bend and not kink the pipe like i did lol.
14.) once fitted place indicator marks on the pipe and elbows marking there angles to each other.
15.) remove the assembly, fit all your pipes and elbows and rubber connections ensuring the allignment of all your marks.
16.) using sylicone seal all your connections every elbow the rubber connection to your air box everything.
17.) while the sylicone is still flexable assemble your new snorkel. be sure to sylicone around the bolts for the air box as well as any holes in the airbox.
18.) once everything is installed airbox bolted down an pipes in there holes connected use sylicone and create about a 1/2" bead around the hole running into the cab and the hole running into your engine bay. the more sylicone the better!!!
19.) out of preference I used underbody coating (ruberized) to help seal up the sylicone connections plus it kinda looked cool once i got done lol.(yes i know you'll never see it or show anyone lol)
20.) It might not be a must do but i used some copper doorbell wire to help support the assembly to the inner fendor a zip tie would work to just didnt have one.
21.) re-assemble head light and fender to original location using the marks left from the fender bolt washers insure that the washers sit back in the same spot this will put all the body lines back to there original locations.
appologies for any miss spelling or grammer im better with a wrench than a keyboard.

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more pics

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Finished pictures?

sorry didnt take any once i put it all back together. This being and internal snorkel you'll never see it from outside the vehicle. The fender bolts right back in the same spot no one would even know it had a snorkel until listening to it inside the car riding down the road. it sounds AWESOME. durring normal driving it sounds like a small hiss of air, get on the gas an you'll hear what a true motor sounds like gggwaaaaaaammm lol no regrets other than goin muddin without it!!

I felt the same when I put in my K&N CAI. It's a little loud during normal driving, but when you step on it, it sounds like a muscle car (especially with my magnaflow!

finished pics...

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awesome write up man. I'll be doing this very very soon!

wow....

Won't there be lots of engine noise in your cabin?

I'm just curious as to the effect this will have on the cabin air and pressurization. An engine gobbles a lot of air, and now it's going to be taking that from inside your truck. I would think this would make your A/C and heater work a lot harder to keep up (especially the A/C, as cool air is heavier and fills the floor area first--right where your intake is). Plus, with all the windows up, I would think this might cause pressurization problems--those tiny vents for cabin air only flow so much, unlike an engine intake. It's a great idea--I'm just wondering about the possible side effects.

+1 and a face laden with concern

No cabin pressure issues windows up, or down, a/c on or off. (i keep the a/c on the auto switch it regularly cuts on and off as it should) hasn't been running any more or less than usuall we're in the high 80's temp wise so far.

no smells, gasses, co2 levels, nothing negative to report.

when throttle is just barely cracked theres zero noise added inside the cabin(this is 90% of the time on the road just barely pushed to maintain speed other than hill climbs or towing)

when throttle is about a 3rd opened you can hear a hiss/small hollow suction noise

when throttle is 2/3rds opened you can hear the motor destinctly running up its power band similar to the sound of a performance exhaust at same throttle position

when throttle is 3/3rds opened (fully opened) yes the engine sounds like its running inside the truck with a performance exhaust (so still muffled) I've injoyed the tune of it from my V8, unsure of how a V6 would sound.

and as stated before the radio tunes out all noises from the first three throttle positions mentioned. The engine sound still slightly overpowers the radio at full throttle but IMHO it sounds great! and have zero mud/water in airbox after this... sorry would've takin picks of the playground after rushing out to help my buddy out (i.e. the second pic) we played around some more after i got him out. and i never thought once about the camra until i got home lol.

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just wondering if you have had any issues or concerns with this mod since you installed it.

Now that you have had this installed for a while...

I wondered about the consequences of running with negative pressure in the cabin in dusty environments.

Have you noticed more dust inside the cabin since you did this ?

probably is about time for an update...

personally I love it, the sound from it is awesome. Zero emission smells or noticeably even with the charcoal filter removed and a high flow K&N filter. no matter if the engine runs for long trips and sits or just sits for countless nights waiting on parts lol.

as far as the effects of the cabin under increased negative air pressure zero issues. Recently I pulled my rear cargo panels, cargo shelf, and carpet. also had the rear bench seat folded down and I could hear the air flow coming from the rear of the truck back at the vents. I can say there was perhaps more dust and dirt on the underside of the cargo panels than normally would be there but it's a non-issue to me.

only negativity I can conclude is the snorkel's effectiveness is limited to the door seals remaining sealed. If the truck were to flood well there goes your snorkel; however, if water has gotten there you've got way more problems than some water in your engine.