Adding rock sliders, OW 2.5" suspension, and already have 275/70/17 A/Ts.

Here are the options:
Hi-Lift Jack - Trail Jacks - Trail Tools And Vehicle Recovery Equipment - Winches and Winch Accessories - by 4 Wheel Parts

I carry and use a 48"er. I have no reason for the 60" nor would I want my rig up that high on a Hi-Lift.

48" is more then enough

Thanks guys. Ordered the 48".

Set up somewhere to mount it inside the rig, they're annoying when they rattle around loose back there.

If you're going to mount it outside on a rack or bumper, invest in a weatherproof cover for it, and a lock to make sure it doesn't walk away.

Cool, my first post here!

I just got a 2000 4R that I'm building having come from Rovers....

I teach off-road driver training for military special teams, industrial and civilian with Overland Experts and Craft International. We use and teach Hi Lift jacks at every training and you will find that it's one of the most useful pieces of recovery gear made! For wheel and tire repair including de-beading, jacking and stacking, and as a come along, spreader, and clamp! The 48" HiLift is all but useless! Period. 48" is not enough to combat suspension droop if you don't lift by the wheel. It's too short for raised vehicles when jacking and stacking, and it is worthless as a come-a-long. Get a 60", the new Extreme version has the improved top clamp that's nice as well. Learn how to properly use the jack - they'll hurt you reall quick! DO NOT store the jack inside the vehicle! I don't care how tied down you think it is - if it lets go in a flop or roll you now have a 60" or 48" 20lb missile in the truck! We have an article you can download on our website with some good info. on the HiLift at Off-road driving school. Overland recreational, professional and military training. 4x4 travel. — Overland Experts.

Thanks.

I agree with this. If Im lifting from the back, My my 48' highlift will "top out" before my wheels are off the ground.

That’s why I use a ratchet strap wrapped around the axle to the frame. It helps w/ axle droop. I’ve never needed any more then a 48” jack.
There is no real need for a 60” unless your compensating for other short comings….
That’s my .02

If you are on flat ground then the 48" will always be enough. Lose a bead in a deep rut and you will be glad to have a 60" High Lift.

Like was said above, strapping the axle to the frame when raising the rig will make the whole thing easier.

If the jack is to be used like a winch the extra foot of length is nice to have there too.

This is one of those things where bigger is better.

Holy crap.

Got a build thread anywhere?

So this may be a dumb question. Has anyone experienced any serious problems with the off-brand or overseas jacks?
If I can save a buck or two...

i have seen/used the harbor freight farm jack and they work okay but i noticed they are prone to just dropping when your trying to lower something. My high lift one works way smoother. If you shop around you can get a real high lift pretty cheap. and they have all the parts available so if you break something you can easily fix it.

BTW buy the longest high lift you can fit. I have a 48" but the main bar is bending. Im going to order a 60" bar for it one day. The 48 has worked for me many times, but I have topped it out and had to stack rocks under it for a little extra in a few places

Here ya go:

Cummins Powered Unimog Axled 4Runner

Hey guys, i was just wondering if anybody has had a change of heart after getting a 48" and wished or at some point needed the 60" ? I am about to order a Hi Lift and have the same original question that the OP had @jediwebdude . Right now i have about 2 1/2 - 1 1/2 with 275/65/18 but do plan on a little more of a lift down the road, probably 3 - 2 with 285/70/17

The only case where I wouldn't recommend a 60" is if you just flat out didn't have room to store it in or on your vehicle. Otherwise, the 60" just offers more in terms of lifting and winching situations. When you get in a situation where you have to jack up out of a rut or softer ground, you're going to loose a bit of stroke before you even start the lifting process and it's really nice to have that extra foot.
On the other hand, the 48" is a bit lighter and definitely shorter and will cover you off for the majority of your lifting, so it's more versatile that way.
All depends on what's more important to you I guess.