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Old 02-09-2011, 10:26 PM #31
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I learned this in a 2wd truck but it wokrs with unlocked 4wd trucks as well. if you come to a point where a rear spinning tire is keeping you stuck, try using the e-brake 1 click at a time with steady increase until the other wheel gets power. it doea wear your rear pads fast but in an emergency its a life saver.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:46 PM #32
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Originally Posted by RpzInc View Post
I learned this in a 2wd truck but it wokrs with unlocked 4wd trucks as well. if you come to a point where a rear spinning tire is keeping you stuck, try using the e-brake 1 click at a time with steady increase until the other wheel gets power. it doea wear your rear pads fast but in an emergency its a life saver.
ive done that before. it actually allowed me to make it up a climb I never should have been able to. it was crazy.


I thought of something recently, and more along an extreme situation.

to use logs/limbs in place of straps or chains.

im thinking more if you're trying to use a high lift or come-a-long to get unstuck, but don't have enough cable to reach a good tree.

you could find a length of tree or branch, and using your belt, shoe laces, rope or whatever else you may have to secure it. it might be JUST enough to get you out the that predicament.


I once used several lengths of chain, and a couple small trees as levers to pull my truck out. not in the way I was describing above, as I had no mechanical pulling devices, nor any other vehicles. it was some full on MacGyver shit...
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:42 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada View Post
ive done that before. it actually allowed me to make it up a climb I never should have been able to. it was crazy.


I thought of something recently, and more along an extreme situation.

to use logs/limbs in place of straps or chains.

im thinking more if you're trying to use a high lift or come-a-long to get unstuck, but don't have enough cable to reach a good tree.

you could find a length of tree or branch, and using your belt, shoe laces, rope or whatever else you may have to secure it. it might be JUST enough to get you out the that predicament.


I once used several lengths of chain, and a couple small trees as levers to pull my truck out. not in the way I was describing above, as I had no mechanical pulling devices, nor any other vehicles. it was some full on MacGyver shit...
Are you saying that you use a small tree or branches as a catapult....? In that you bend them down, tie them up to the truck and let go of the branches and then the pull back force of the branches might give you just enough of a tug to help you along. Interesting.
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:42 PM #34
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Quote:
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Are you saying that you use a small tree or branches as a catapult....? In that you bend them down, tie them up to the truck and let go of the branches and then the pull back force of the branches might give you just enough of a tug to help you along. Interesting.
not exactly. i'll see if I can come up with some in mspaint that shows what I did.
it may be a couple days..
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:31 PM #35
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Quote:
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Are you saying that you use a small tree or branches as a catapult....? In that you bend them down, tie them up to the truck and let go of the branches and then the pull back force of the branches might give you just enough of a tug to help you along. Interesting.
this is crude, and the distances arent to scale, but I think you get the idea.



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Old 12-23-2013, 08:36 PM #36
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I thought of something else ive encountered on the trail.

when you get stuck attempting to pull out another vehicle. now both are stuck, and the strap is tight.

hopefully you have a second strap..

connect it to along side the tight strap, and try to do it in such a way that you get as much slack out.

then using a shovel, or high light handle, slide it between the straps start twisting the straps together. as they twist, they will get shorter, ONE of the rigs will move.

use caution, as the shovel will have a lot of tension against it, if you let go, it will spin....violently.

it can be a bit dangerous, but may be just enough to get you unstuck.
at least enough so you can reposition a vehicle.
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:48 AM #37
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I think I get it now. And it quickly reminded me of this recovery video.

Russian fishermen caught the car on Lake Baikal in 2013 - YouTube
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:54 AM #38
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this is crude, and the distances arent to scale, but I think you get the idea.



That could work - you'd want the short side of each log closer to the truck for maximum leverage.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:05 AM #39
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That could work - you'd want the short side of each log closer to the truck for maximum leverage.
yes, it DID work.

agreed, they were a bit closer, like I said, it wasn't to scale.
but, its not like we have a choice where the trees grow tho

things worked out just right for it to work that time.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:19 AM #40
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yes, it DID work.
Oh, I didn't get that part. Sorry!
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:26 PM #41
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Mud usually tends to hide obstacles such as tree roots and sticks just waiting to slash your sidewalls, so its best to avoid reducing tire pressures if you can avoid it..
i fully realize this was posted back 11 years ago, but nobody took exception to it, and it is wrong.

sidewalls are more susceptible to being punctured at higher pressure, not lower pressure. where sharp objects are likely to be encountered, run the lowest pressure that you are comfortable running that will maintain the bead. that will vary by tire type, make, and wheel combination (beadlocks/no beadlocks, etc).

this applies to rock surfaces, too, not just mud.

puncture resistance, and sidewall strength are one of the reasons i prefer running bias-ply tires where i wheel (new england). i've got over 20 years experience wheeling, and 15 of that running bias swampers (ltb and "plain"). another advantage is being able to run very low pressures w/out beadlocks. i typically run 2 to 4 psi when wheeling my cj, vs the 7 to 10 psi when running radials on the cj. those numbers would/will be slightly higher for the 4runner, since it weighs more. i think i could get away with 4 to 6 psi for bias, and 8 to 12 with radials.
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Old 09-23-2014, 02:34 AM #42
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this is crude, and the distances arent to scale, but I think you get the idea.



No joke, I once lifted a 2wd F150 that was buried to it's rear axel in sugar sand on a riverbed here in Oklahoma that could not be mitigated with the assistance of a tug strap and my trusty 4Runner. However, we were able to resolve it with a simple lever made out of a long log and a stump.

We rolled the stump over just behind the truck, and it was so large that we had to use a few walking-stick sized branches to wedge it towards the truck on about a 150' run. Then, we found a dried out log that was about 20' long and at its thickest point near its base, probably 2' in diameter, tapering up to about 10" in diameter at its broken off top. Luckily, it was a completely dried out driftwood log that was remarkably round and easy to roll with 3 guys.

So we rolled it about 50 yards or so to the back of the truck, placed the smallest diameter end up underneath the rear hidden hitch (which was touching sand, he buried it so deep before I got there), and then lifted the heavier, wider end up as high as we could and put the large stump underneath it as close to the truck as possible (that acted as the fulcrum, and was about 4' away from the tailgate).

Once under, just the weight of the trunk with the mechanical advantage was enough to start lifting the rear end a bit. Then, I walked out to the end of the lever-log and started to lift the truck pretty well with just my weight (around 180 lbs), then my 200 lbs friend jumped up there and we were able to completely pick up the back end of the truck, rear axle and wheels completely suspended. However, just getting it in the air did nothing.

So while we sat on the end of the log, our third friend started back-filling in the holes with sand, sticks, tall river-weeds, a few cardboard beer boxes, and even a large scrap piece of carpet that someone dumped out there. We set it back down on all the junk and it compressed it pretty good and still could not get out of its own holes, so we moved the fulcrum (the large stump) to about 1.5' away from the tailgate and repeated the process. This time, GREAT SUCCESS! lol. It freaking worked. Unbelievable.

My buddy then told me that I was the smartest man alive. I took the compliment, but honestly, had I not just seen the first massive stump just sitting there, the thought would have never crossed my mind. It just so happened to be in the perfect spot to spark an idea.


My rendition of the event:
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:21 AM #43
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Another good tip for driving on snow and ice is when you want to stop, shift into neutral and gently use the brakes. You will have better braking balance without the power train pushing you forward. On level ground most hehicles in drive will creep forward. This makes it more difficult to brake effectively.
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Old 04-06-2015, 03:11 PM #44
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wheels and tires

forgive me, I could find a new post to type some comments about my 4runner limited - wheels and tires

I purchased 2015 Toyota 4runner limited6 months ago. I asked sale rep if this suv is able to drive - off road. She said Yes. 6 months later - I learned that my limited suv is not fitting for off road bec of tires - 245/60/20 and luxury. I wish I could buy 4runner trail, but I was wondering if I could buy other wheels and tires for off road? Please share your experience with me. Thanks
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:34 PM #45
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recovery points

i searched this thread looking for advice on using the recovery points on the 15 4 runner. i couldnt find anything specific regarding them. anyone like to direct me or provide some advice on using them for recovery? are they just tie downs? thanks in advance
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