03-14-2021, 02:03 PM
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#1
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Location: New Jersey, USA
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Removing braces for skid plates?
I was watching this video last night from Victory 4X4 about their install of the Victory 4X4 skid plates.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JLF9z_18SY
I saw that they removed some parts that they called crash bars and another thing they referred to as braces of some sort. They put the skid plates on after removing those parts, but those parts remained off.
Is keeping those parts off really a good thing? They look like they're rather sturdy things that would provide structure for the vehicle, and I'm not sure if the skid plates would be good replacements for those parts. I've got to wonder if skid plates that go on over these parts would be better for the vehicle in the long term.
I'm reminded of these cracks in the wheelwells that I've seen people have. Perhaps there's a correlation between removing these parts and a stretching of the wheelwell to the point of cracking? And if not this, then maybe something else?
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03-14-2021, 02:36 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: The Republic of Texas
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Real Name: Kirk
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Join Date: Aug 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamma Ray
I was watching this video last night from Victory 4X4 about their install of the Victory 4X4 skid plates.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JLF9z_18SY
I saw that they removed some parts that they called crash bars and another thing they referred to as braces of some sort. They put the skid plates on after removing those parts, but those parts remained off.
Is keeping those parts off really a good thing? They look like they're rather sturdy things that would provide structure for the vehicle, and I'm not sure if the skid plates would be good replacements for those parts. I've got to wonder if skid plates that go on over these parts would be better for the vehicle in the long term.
I'm reminded of these cracks in the wheelwells that I've seen people have. Perhaps there's a correlation between removing these parts and a stretching of the wheelwell to the point of cracking? And if not this, then maybe something else?
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My .02...I have a PRO with the factory Pro skidplate. I chose RCI for my skids specifically because they have an engine skid that integrates with the factory skid. A GX460 obviously does not have this. so...maybe not apples to apples, but close.
That said, those curved "crash Bars" (NOT the ones to the radiator support) were also removed with the RCI units. I was satisfied that the skid itself took on most of the stiffness of the removed bars. I based this on how the skids bolted up to the vehicle; using the factory bolt holes for the removed bars, to secure the skid plate. Very solid.
The PRO skid plate bolts up to the same place on the radiator support as the "s" shaped braces, and to the cross member in back. Is it as strong as those braces...dunno. But the Pro skid is a stout piece of metal, and I'm willing to consider that an "acceptable risk".
Good luck!
AMLOR
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03-18-2021, 12:09 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMLOR
That said, those curved "crash Bars" (NOT the ones to the radiator support) were also removed with the RCI units. I was satisfied that the skid itself took on most of the stiffness of the removed bars. I based this on how the skids bolted up to the vehicle; using the factory bolt holes for the removed bars, to secure the skid plate. Very solid.
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Interesting. When I installed my RCI skids just a month ago, the insructions specifically stated to leave those on, which I did. There are spacers that are integrated with the mounts of those curved braces. The spacers act to clear the exhaust.
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03-22-2021, 02:00 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Southern California
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Real Name: Al
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I mounted mine the same way as ahtoxa11. I bought the aluminum RCI full skid plate package during last months group buy. Mounted it this month on a 2021 ORP. I could be wrong, but I believe the TRD Pro does not have the “crash bar/curved braces.”
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03-26-2021, 04:27 AM
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#5
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Few years ago I installed the TRD skid plate and there was no instructions to remove the bars. Like the previous two posters I recently added the RCI front skid and that had no instructions to remove the bars either.
My only thought is why didn’t RCI use the same bolt holes under the radiator that the TRD skid used that also mounts the front of the bars? Would of saved me a lot of time cleaning out the threads of the holes next to them that were caked with mud. The originally used holes are much stronger location with larger bolts.
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Last edited by JPOVS; 03-26-2021 at 04:31 AM.
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03-31-2021, 01:05 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalAl
I mounted mine the same way as ahtoxa11. I bought the aluminum RCI full skid plate package during last months group buy. Mounted it this month on a 2021 ORP. I could be wrong, but I believe the TRD Pro does not have the “crash bar/curved braces.”
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Out of sheer curiosity, what was your order number? I think I got into the order pretty early but I'm still waiting for my full AL set.
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05-13-2021, 08:03 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahtoxa11
Interesting. When I installed my RCI skids just a month ago, the insructions specifically stated to leave those on, which I did. There are spacers that are integrated with the mounts of those curved braces. The spacers act to clear the exhaust.
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For what it's worth, I went back re read the instructions and reinstalled the curved frame braces.
Yes the Pro models also come with the braces...at lease my '19 did.
AMLOR
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2019 TRD PRO: Victory 4x4 Blitz bumper & sliders, Smittybilt 12K, Factor 55, Bubba Rope, Van Beest, C4 Fab, Power Tank, Xenon Depot, Cali Raised LED, ARB, SPC UCA's, Rad Rubber, REDARC, StrongBox, TRD Pro front coils, CE Auto Elect., Blue Sea, SDHQ/SP9100, Cornfed, RCI skids, BajaRack "basket", Revolution Gear 4.88's, Dobinsons 300lb over stock rear springs. DrawTight Class IV frame mounted hitch, Method Racing 703 Bead grip.
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06-11-2021, 09:19 AM
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#8
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I had to pull these loops off with my RSG skid plate - the skid seems much beefier and uses the mounting points compared to the radiator support hoops which were removed.
I've also got an aftermarket bumper so the OEM crash bar is long gone
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06-11-2021, 06:16 PM
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#9
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I have all possible functional skid plates (no A arm ones lol) and have not removed nor would remove anything of that sort from the vehicle.
It makes no sense to me at all to be removing those supports and I would rather have the Toyota parts than a small shop alternative. They provide structure to the RCI 3/16 steel front skid plate, in my case. Ask me how I know (the entire pax side of the front plate is caved in but the support in question held on).
I have skid plates to make things stronger, not to sweat them out.
As for bumpers, that's different, it is an obvious binary decision: do or not. With skid plates, there is no need to have to make X vs Z decisions.
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(6112s/650lb at 2.25" lift, 8100 rear with Bilstein B12 1.5" springs, Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 LTE 265 70 17, RCI set of front 3/16 skids, Shrockworks step sliders and 3/16 steel gas tank skid, C4Fab rear diff skid, Rockmen rear LCAs, Total Chaos rear LCA bracket skids, Diode Dynamics SS3 white fog lights).
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01-08-2022, 03:06 PM
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#10
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I left the crash bars in place when I installed the ARB belly pan and bridged the gap in front with a couple 3/4" thick steel spacers that now sit between the crash bar and the slots on the front skid. If impact pulls the threads over time you can solve that with a serrated flange nut at the top of a quality rivet nut (I went with flange nuts). It definitely rides better now when I stuff into the first few feet of a sand dune on approach or when bottoming out the front after a gnarly break-over. The feel in the truck is harsher. Making sense of the harshness is that the plates are doing their job sliding over the surface whereas the stock plates would just bend in the front and not cover enough further rearward which consequently allowed the truck to sink in too far. I like the reassurance of the crash bars still in place under the front skid on first contact when it's time to work! It's also been nice bot having to adjust the front bumper cover or replace retainers after running hard at Silver Lake.
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01-09-2022, 08:31 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikesDuneRunnerSLS
I left the crash bars in place when I installed the ARB belly pan and bridged the gap in front with a couple 3/4" thick steel spacers that now sit between the crash bar and the slots on the front skid. If impact pulls the threads over time you can solve that with a serrated flange nut at the top of a quality rivet nut (I went with flange nuts). It definitely rides better now when I stuff into the first few feet of a sand dune on approach or when bottoming out the front after a gnarly break-over. The feel in the truck is harsher. Making sense of the harshness is that the plates are doing their job sliding over the surface whereas the stock plates would just bend in the front and not cover enough further rearward which consequently allowed the truck to sink in too far. I like the reassurance of the crash bars still in place under the front skid on first contact when it's time to work! It's also been nice bot having to adjust the front bumper cover or replace retainers after running hard at Silver Lake.
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Your posts aided in my decision to purchase the ARB skids as well, so thanks!
In reference to the OP, I also left the crash bars in place.
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