I recently purchased a set of brand new alloy FJ Cruiser wheels on ebay for a very good price that were a dealership swap. In the process of purchasing, I did not investigate closely whether or not these wheels had the same offset as stock 4Runner wheels and went by claims on other FJ Wheel ebay ads that said they are compatiable with the 03-07 4Runner. The seller of my particular wheels did not make this claim but other ads running at the same time did. After I have purchased them, I noticed that the stock 4Runner wheel has a 30 mm offset and the FJ wheels have a 15mm offset. This equates to providing 15 mm (0.59") of more clearance between the wheel and the strut assembly but it also equates to the wheel centerline being off by 15 mm as well.

My question: Is this difference in offset problematic in that it will/may cause harm to the wheel bearings due to the difference in wheel centerline?

The extra clearance is fine and not sure of Toyota did this simply to provide better clearance for the 265/70/17 tires that are available on the FJ. I was going on the assumption that the axle assemblies are the same or at least similar so thought offset would be the same too and was surprised to find out that there is a difference in offset between the two vehicles. I bought these wheels to install a set of Cooper STT 265/70/17 tires strictly for use on offroading ventures and do not plan to run on these wheels/tires for daily driving. I was hoping that a 15mm offset difference won't be a big deal and makes me wonder how this could be any different than wheel spacers as far as potential harm to wheel bearings since they too shift wheel centerline.

Appreciate advice of someone very very knowledgeable in this realm or can direct me to someone who is. Thanks in advance.

15mm is nothing really, if you think about it. If anything, it will bring the wheels/tires out more flush with the fender flares and give your 4Runner a nicer stance.

If you decide that you don't want the FJ wheels, let me know and I'll buy them from you!

I wouldn't give it a second thought, especially if it's only an occaisonal thing.

I run 1.5" wheel spacers on the front. It's not a DD, but I wouldn't worry if it was.

I agree, a few forum members, and I have FJ alloys. There is such a minimal difference, you will not have a problem. It is only if you get into negative offset where you may place stress on the components.

Thanks for your input. I feel much better again about my plans for the FJ alloys.

If you get a chance, post a few more pics of your rig with the FJ wheels. I saw your pics in the other thread, but maybe you can post a few pics on a tighter angle to show how far the "wider" stance the FJ wheels give your 4Runner.

I really like the way the extra offset brings the wheels out and seems to fill the wheel wells. So far I've only seen pics of FJ wheels on your 4Runner and loner's 4Runner, and they both look great.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm looking at getting putting a set of rims that have a 25mm offset on my 2004 4Runner. I believe the old 5 spoke ones have a 30mm offset. Based on the information in this thread, does this mean that the rims that are 25mm offset will have a little wider stance? The rims I'm considering are from a lexus GX 470. Thoughts anyone? Thanks for any information.

Hi there, I'm a noob too, go figure...

Anyways, I just got my hot little hands on a 2002 SR5 with 16" stock rims. I'm looking to get some aftermarket 17" and now we come to the dreaded "offset" issue.

On Yotatech they said the spacing was 4 5/8" which makes sense from the pics :http://http://www.yotatech.com/f2/3r...w-pics-135007/ , then I go to sniff out wheels and they throw around terms like 0 offset -12mm offset, +12mm offset. Bwah?!

Could somebody please explain to me, and don't hesitate to keep it simple(let's face it, big words confuse me) with positive offset - the wheels go out wider? Negative offset, the wheels go in? Or do I have this backwards??

Must lay down now, my head hurts.

Look here, it may help with some answers.

Thank you, turns out there are pros around here that hear this stuff every day. I was trying to do the online thing to save a whack of cash, but when you factor in return shipping costs if I get the wheel size wrong, it was not worth the grief and aggravation. Started a positive relationship with a local 4wheeler shop too. Only thing is 33's are too much wheel for my '02 runner. I had to do some modding to the front part of my running boards to get some kind of clearance to minimize rub when I turn my wheels. In hindsight I should have done a 2" lift first, then got the bigger tires.

I specked my tires out to be 32s. Theoretically. It was a lot easier for me to find 17" rims than 16" after market rims so that was what I was looking at, and the tires I wanted did not come smaller; it was either 265/75 R16 or 265/70 R17. So here I am. I got Goodyear Duratracs because they are one of the few big knobbies that are winter snow flake rated, and as I live up here in the tundra, that was important. Mudders in the winter are like driving on hockey pucks. Tires are so dang knobby tho' that they are a 33 OD size. Dang, again.

Anyways, no real point here, just wanted to share. But like I said, lift first, big tires second.

ok so I'm trying to get to the bottom of this so i can try to purchase some slicker wheels for my 2005 SR5 i just purchased. I read somewhere that the ideal recommended wheel size for this model is 16x8 with a zero offset. of course the wheels that i like arent this exact offset so,

Question: would i need to run a spacer if the offset is a 6 or a 15mm to avoid any issues? this will be predominately my Daily Driver. Also if it is a contributor, i planned to run a 275/70 or a 265/75 BFG AT.
thanks

Edited for accuracy:
This is an old thread, but I have relevant input. Found this in my search.

TLDR version: I've just had my 2nd set of front bearings replaced on my 04 4Runner. They seem to go around 80-120k miles or 7-11 years. The miles might be drastically shortened by having the wrong offset, but it's inconclusive. Also, the price difference dealership vs. independent mechanic was essentially doubled ($1300 11 years ago, versus $700 now).

Longer version:

I've got a 04 4Runner. 95% of driving on paved roads with normal sized tires. Nothing extreme, except cold snowy conditions annually.

At about 127k miles around 2011 (at year 7 of age), on factory wheels, I had one front bearing need replacement. I think passenger. Notes show both were replaced at the Toyota dealership for around $1300. All was well.

Around 200k miles a few years ago in 2019, I wanted to replace my worn factory wheels (30mm offset) and bought gen 5 ? Snowflake pattern takeoffs (15mm offset). This was before I understood offset issues. I wrongly assumed the fitment was the same. Basically all Toyota trucks for decades used the same 6 lug wheels and dimensions except our oddball Gen 4. I only recently learned of offset.

Now 3 years and 5000 miles later I'm getting both front bearings replaced due to development of bearing problems. Low rubbing rhythmic sounds. It appears to be passenger side again. Maybe both, but both were replaced at a small independent shop for $690 parts and labor. So the 2011 Toyota job lasted 11 years but only 80k miles. More time, less miles.

It could be coincidence. It could just be a 100k mile or age related wear item. It's unclear if there's any relationship. I don't know for certain. But in my case, it appears I might have shaved off 40k miles of "lifespan" on mine with my recent switch to the wrong offset. My mechanic didn't think it was problematic, but to be cautious and avoid this expensive repair again in the near term, I acquired a set of original Gen 4 wheels and had them swapped over. No more expensive gambling on offset.

Oddly enough, I have a Gen4 set of rims (30mm) on my 2002 Gen1 Tundra (15mm), and I don't seem to have problems. But I might need to correct these as well.

WHY would Toyota create these stupid headaches? Constantly changing lug designs. Offsets? Grrrrrr

Too small of a sample size to determine correlation / causation.

As to your last comment, all manufacturers change things occasionally. The issue begins when we take parts from a different model/year/generation and swap them onto our vehicle. The change in specs causes no headaches to them...