02-10-2010, 08:30 PM
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#16
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Bow shackles should cost $10-$15. They are worth it. You can get away with only 1, and girth hitch the other end to one of the recovery loops on your truck, but a really hard pull and it can be hard to undo.
I suggest a 2" wide strap with a breaking strength of around 20,000 pounds, and a working load limit if one-third that. The reason for not going to a stronger 3" strap is that I think the 2" is strong enough, and you want to make sure that the strap is the weakest link in your system and not a piece of hardware or the recovery point itself. I am skeptical of the 4Runner recovery points. Although the manunal states them as such, they don't provide a working load limit for them.
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02-10-2010, 09:20 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HB 4X4
No experience, because I bought the proper gear. Keep doing it... doesn't matter to me. You can read through this thread if you care to, but like I said, it makes no difference to me as long as you're not around me when taking your shortcuts.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/off-ro...h-shackle.html
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I read the thread back when it was still a new thread, and re-read it to make sure I didn't miss anything. Still a few people making claims that they have absolutely no personal experience to back it up, pretending to have physics degrees when they probably don't. Again, I have been doing it this way for years and have never had a tow pin fail. Show me some hard evidence to back up what you "think" would happen and I'll believe you. I'm glad there are people like you to buy the "proper gear" just because someone told you it was the "proper gear", otherwise these companies would be out of business.
Between this thread and the one you linked I have seen 3 people who said they use the pin as a tow point quite frequently and have never had a negative outcome whatsoever, and a whole bunch of people who have had 0 experience to back their argument up.
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1998 Toyota 4Runner Limited
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Exterior: TRD Tacoma wheels painted black, Spidertrax spacers, 20% Tint, Coleman Safari Rack, clear corner lenses, custom dents
Interior: Alpine CDA-9883, Polk MOMO 6.5", Infinity Reference 5.25", Memphis 16-STT150 2 channel amp, custom mud
Offroad: OME 3" lift (881/890), 1" diff. drop from Toytec, Tacoma whip antenna, extended rear diff breather, gray wire mod, 285/75/16 BFG KM2s
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02-11-2010, 03:31 AM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trd_4runnin
I read the thread back when it was still a new thread, and re-read it to make sure I didn't miss anything. Still a few people making claims that they have absolutely no personal experience to back it up, pretending to have physics degrees when they probably don't. Again, I have been doing it this way for years and have never had a tow pin fail. Show me some hard evidence to back up what you "think" would happen and I'll believe you. I'm glad there are people like you to buy the "proper gear" just because someone told you it was the "proper gear", otherwise these companies would be out of business.
Between this thread and the one you linked I have seen 3 people who said they use the pin as a tow point quite frequently and have never had a negative outcome whatsoever, and a whole bunch of people who have had 0 experience to back their argument up.
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Cool...
Like I said, it makes no difference to me what you do as long as it's not around me. I am not trying to persuade you either way. I just hope you 3 who use the pin never hurt someone or cause damage and regret your choices. I do, however, believe there is a reason that only 3 people use the pin (your own words).
My girlfriend is co-pilot on most trips, and I don't take any shortcuts regarding safety. To each his own, just be cautious. Hindsight is always 20/20, but assuming things won't go wrong is how you get into trouble.
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02-11-2010, 01:43 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HB 4X4
Cool...
Like I said, it makes no difference to me what you do as long as it's not around me. I am not trying to persuade you either way. I just hope you 3 who use the pin never hurt someone or cause damage and regret your choices. I do, however, believe there is a reason that only 3 people use the pin (your own words).
My girlfriend is co-pilot on most trips, and I don't take any shortcuts regarding safety. To each his own, just be cautious. Hindsight is always 20/20, but assuming things won't go wrong is how you get into trouble.
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Then, why do you have a highlift?? Just kidding...had to jump into the conversation! I think that you will find more evidence to show the negative aspect of wheel spacers before you will find any about a tow pin breaking.
Last edited by Thai; 02-11-2010 at 01:47 PM.
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02-11-2010, 11:36 PM
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#20
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Didn't mean to start an argument lol but hey if people use the pin with repeated success there is no harm in that. But I agree HB, better safe than sorry.
I probably won't use the eyelets either unless its with a winch.
And yeah nice idea about not overdoing the snatch strap. If that is your weakest link then at least you're left with a broken strap, not a torn off hitch. I've bought a 2" with 15,000 lb webbing that should be enough.
Well I think I'm good now, just starting with some light snow/mud so no big deal really.
Thanks everyone for the help
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Last edited by 10majfar; 02-11-2010 at 11:38 PM.
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02-12-2010, 12:16 AM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10majfar
Didn't mean to start an argument lol but hey if people use the pin with repeated success there is no harm in that. But I agree HB, better safe than sorry.
I probably won't use the eyelets either unless its with a winch.
And yeah nice idea about not overdoing the snatch strap. If that is your weakest link then at least you're left with a broken strap, not a torn off hitch. I've bought a 2" with 15,000 lb webbing that should be enough.
Well I think I'm good now, just starting with some light snow/mud so no big deal really.
Thanks everyone for the help
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Meh.. more of a debate than argument. It's all good. I'm sure as hell not gonna hold any internet grudges.
Have fun and good luck!
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1998 Toyota 4Runner Limited
1A5 V6 3.4l 4x4 w/ RR DIFF LOCK
Exterior: TRD Tacoma wheels painted black, Spidertrax spacers, 20% Tint, Coleman Safari Rack, clear corner lenses, custom dents
Interior: Alpine CDA-9883, Polk MOMO 6.5", Infinity Reference 5.25", Memphis 16-STT150 2 channel amp, custom mud
Offroad: OME 3" lift (881/890), 1" diff. drop from Toytec, Tacoma whip antenna, extended rear diff breather, gray wire mod, 285/75/16 BFG KM2s
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05-02-2012, 01:27 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCL_68
You should at least have these items.....
2.Recovery tow strap at least 3" wide 30" feet long...not the cheap ones with hooks...Also a snatch strap...helps by stretching (Kinetic energy) to get the down vehicle unstuck...
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I'm a little confused. I thought a recovery strap was the same things a snatch strap. A Tow strap would be something conmpletly differrent, no?
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05-02-2012, 01:33 PM
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#23
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just one more quick question, (2 actually)
I just bought a 3" 30' no name recovery strap that was on sale at Prince Auto. Would I be better off with the 2" 30' name brand (erikson I think?)? I bought a couple fo 5/8 shackles off the rack there, $7 each, sound like those may be a fail point for me? Upgrade to something else?
I've got a stocker that I might get new tires, maybe a spacer on, but that's it. No hard core 4x4, just some BC forest trails and puddles. But that last thing I want is the 1 time I'm stuck with the wife and kid in the car, I can't get out because I bought ****ty gear 2 years ago to save a dollar. I also don't want to buy more than I need as well as minor space concerns (2" verse 3")
thanks!
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05-02-2012, 03:27 PM
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#24
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To most people, a snatch strap and a recovery strap are the same thing. Unfortunately, the term recovery strap is vague because it may or may not be the stretchy' kind. A tow rope/strap or an extension strap should not be the stretchy kind, but can be used for vehicle recovery or towing in cases where the vehicle is not really stuck, but can't move because of poor traction or some kind of mechanical failure.
Your cheapo strap and shackles will be fine for what you want.
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05-07-2012, 11:23 PM
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#25
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WOW this thread is hilarious. Im am sure a hitch pin that is rated for a 12,000 lb recevier hitch is fine to put through the end of a strap. Actually I bet a 5/8 grade 8 bolt would be more than fine. That has about a 27,000 lb shear strength and costs all of a couple bucks. Im sure someone could snap one, But be smart with your recoveries. Dont shock the system and you will be just fine. Nice smooth pulls, no running starts unless you have a strap that is meant to stretch. Think about it. A 5000lb 4runner going 30 mph and shocking a system trying to pull something could break a huge shackle
I dont get the whole deal of a hitch pin meant for a "wider more dispersed force" Have you looked at a receiver hitch, Its not solid. Its set up the same, actually i bet a nylon strap gets more surface area contact on a hitch pin than the 2 walls of the .250 wall hitch does. I know you all are not meaning to argue but this thread has to be confusing to some.
You are putting way too much thought into this. These trucks are relatively light. A shackle is nice, But use what you have. The hitch pin is fine. A 5/8 grade 8 bolt and nut would work just fine too.
And NEVER RUN NYLON TO NYLON straps. Use a shackle. the friction between the two nylon straps will melt the straps together. I dont understand where using a shackle for two straps is a bad idea ?? Thats what they are made for.
And my last deal stay away from chains, and stay away from those cheapo straps with the hooks built in to the ends. Those are very dangerous.
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05-08-2012, 10:04 AM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-money$$$
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And NEVER RUN NYLON TO NYLON straps. Use a shackle. the friction between the two nylon straps will melt the straps together. I dont understand where using a shackle for two straps is a bad idea ??
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Using a shackle for joining two SNATCH straps is a bad idea for the same reason that the straps with built in hooks are bad. The most likely failure point in the system is one of the fabric straps, so under the high dynamic loads of a recovery the metal shackle can cause greater damage or injury should it go flying with the snatch straps. For heavy duty recovery jobs, stick to using shackles for connecting snatch straps to the vehicle only.
I've never seen two straps 'melt' together, ever.
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