02-07-2015, 02:45 PM
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#1
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How do I repair cement garage floor?
Hey everyone,
What is the easiest way to repair the entrance of my garage? The builder obviously did a shitty job laying he concrete and it's been flaking over the last couple of winters. I'm sure driving over it doesn't help either.
Are there any quick cement repair kits for a job like this?
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Last edited by JayceeP; 02-07-2015 at 02:48 PM.
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02-07-2015, 02:46 PM
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#2
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Another shot:
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2012 Shoreline Blue LE 4WD w/ 3rd Row.
Last edited by JayceeP; 02-07-2015 at 02:49 PM.
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02-07-2015, 02:49 PM
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#3
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Do a search on Home Depot for garage sealers. Its a light grey coating that makes your garage floor very smooth and shiny and easy to clean.
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02-07-2015, 02:51 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Range
Do a search on Home Depot for garage sealers. Its a light grey coating that makes your garage floor very smooth and shiny and easy to clean.
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The portion that extends beyond the garage door has a rough/textured finish with fine ridges. Would I want that part to be polished/smooth, or is it just an aesthetic thing?
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02-07-2015, 02:57 PM
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#5
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It's both in my opinion. I really liked having it in my old house because it looked good, it was easy to clean and you could always just reapply in areas if at any time you dropped something heavy and it chipped. As far as the area you're talking about I've never done anything to it and it never gotten so bad it needed to be fixed. I think the aesthetics are what's bothering you so maybe a uniorm look would help.
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02-07-2015, 03:01 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Range
It's both in my opinion. I really liked having it in my old house because it looked good, it was easy to clean and you could always just reapply in areas if at any time you dropped something heavy and it chipped. As far as the area you're talking about I've never done anything to it and it never gotten so bad it needed to be fixed. I think the aesthetics are what's bothering you so maybe a uniorm look would help.
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I'm just worried about it crumbling more. As you can see, in th first picture, the gap between the cement and asphalt and wobbly so to speak as a result of stones breaking away from the concrete base. I just don't know how much more it will go. Thanks for your help.
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02-08-2015, 10:46 AM
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#7
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I was recommended a product called "Tilt Finish by Mapei" for fixing a couple chips in my sidewalk last summer, might work well to fill in the surface of your pad as well. I'd look at some sort of sealant for the whole pad afterwards to keep it from happening again/getting worse. I used a white glue-like product that came in a 5 gallon pail to seal my pad, clean it really well, apply with a roller kind of stuff.
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02-09-2015, 09:03 AM
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#8
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in winter you will get that a lot. the minute pores will freeze and crack over the winters to the point it will need to be redone.
the melting/freezing will get worse unless you seal it. I am having the same issue but with the addition of the foundation settling at different rates inside and outside the garage.
dreading the cost of redoing all of this or going the cheap route and doing some mud jacking under the foundation.
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02-09-2015, 10:35 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDak
in winter you will get that a lot. the minute pores will freeze and crack over the winters to the point it will need to be redone.
the melting/freezing will get worse unless you seal it. I am having the same issue but with the addition of the foundation settling at different rates inside and outside the garage.
dreading the cost of redoing all of this or going the cheap route and doing some mud jacking under the foundation.
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I'm just going to put this right here for you... Does not really help the OP.
Foam Jacking by Concrete Jack | Concrete Jack Foundation Repair & Concrete Lifting
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02-10-2015, 08:41 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayceeP
I'm just worried about it crumbling more. As you can see, in th first picture, the gap between the cement and asphalt and wobbly so to speak as a result of stones breaking away from the concrete base. I just don't know how much more it will go. Thanks for your help.
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GO to Lowes, get some epoxy made for this, mask you a line right across the door opening and just do the damaged part. No real masonry fix besides chipping it out and re doing it.
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02-10-2015, 09:45 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1engineer
GO to Lowes, get some epoxy made for this, mask you a line right across the door opening and just do the damaged part. No real masonry fix besides chipping it out and re doing it.
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This.
I'm going to piggy back on 1E a bit here. If this was a bridge deck, we would saw cut <1" (depth) around the damage, chip it out, use a structural epoxy on the edges and fill with high strength, rapid set concrete. You'd do well enough to use something like this on the damaged areas, and if it makes you feel better, run some epoxy or sealant ( look here) along the edge where the asphalt meets your garage's concrete. Make sure you pressure wash it all first to clean out any salts, oils and debris. Since you have a lot of spalling, sealing the edges of the patches may not be realistic, but it would help with the longevity of the patches.
If you're wondering, it looks like the concrete spalled because they (the builder) dumped water on that "ramp" area to keep it more workable and get the fines to float up so they could get you that textured finish. At the end of the day, you can't "fix" bad concrete (only long term fix is to cut out and replace), so you may have to maintain the surface repairs every few years in the future.
OA
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Last edited by Omar RVA; 02-10-2015 at 11:46 AM.
Reason: Added some clarity to my response
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02-10-2015, 09:47 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omar RVA
This.
I'm going to piggy back on 1E a bit here. If this was a bridge deck, we would saw cut <1" around the damage, chip it out, use a structural epoxy on the edges and fill with high strength, rapid set concrete. You'd do well enough to use something like this on the damaged areas, and if it makes you feel better, run some epoxy or sealant ( look here) along the edge where the asphalt meets your garage's concrete. Make sure you pressure wash it all first to clean out any salts, oils and debris.
If you're wondering, it looks like the concrete spalled because they (the builder) dumped water on that "ramp" area to keep it more workable and get the fines to float up so they could get you that textured finish.
OA
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This^^^
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02-10-2015, 06:25 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1engineer
GO to Lowes, get some epoxy made for this, mask you a line right across the door opening and just do the damaged part. No real masonry fix besides chipping it out and re doing it.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omar RVA
This.
I'm going to piggy back on 1E a bit here. If this was a bridge deck, we would saw cut <1" (depth) around the damage, chip it out, use a structural epoxy on the edges and fill with high strength, rapid set concrete. You'd do well enough to use something like this on the damaged areas, and if it makes you feel better, run some epoxy or sealant ( look here) along the edge where the asphalt meets your garage's concrete. Make sure you pressure wash it all first to clean out any salts, oils and debris. Since you have a lot of spalling, sealing the edges of the patches may not be realistic, but it would help with the longevity of the patches.
If you're wondering, it looks like the concrete spalled because they (the builder) dumped water on that "ramp" area to keep it more workable and get the fines to float up so they could get you that textured finish. At the end of the day, you can't "fix" bad concrete (only long term fix is to cut out and replace), so you may have to maintain the surface repairs every few years in the future.
OA
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Thanks guys, that's awesome. I'll look this up!
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02-12-2015, 02:39 PM
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#14
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As others have pointed out, that's called spalling and if you want to prevent further damage you can do something as simple as using a self-leveling concrete repair product from a company like sakrete. I had the same problem with my driveway and my repair has been holding fine for 4+ years with no additional spalling taking place.
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