Failed Spidertrax spacer, there goes the wheel
 

I thought I would share my experience with spidertrax spacers for anyone who might be considering them. On my way back from camping going through a downward S-curve, the front driver-side spidertrax decided to loose the lugs and my wheel came right off; Good news is that (with removing the spacers) I was able to put my wheel back on and continue the 5 hour drive home. Aside from a bent fender does anyone have any recommendations on what to replace or fix? I dont feel too much of a difference driving. However I do notice a slight creaking/folding sound that I can only relate to a ball joint, which comes out on a turn or bump at high speed (like when getting off a highway).

Rotors will probably go, although I dont feel a difference in those either. All in all I got extremely lucky!
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Had the same thing happen to me. Except on freeway and it was passenger side. Apart from body damage: new rotor, lugs, re-alignment and was good to go.


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Whoa.

Damn! These two posts make me want to consider taking mine off. The fact that the lugs just sheared off instead of the actual spacer coming off the hub is worrying.

Of course I’m literally dropping my truck off at 10:30 tomorrow to get wheels,these spacers and lift. Dang.

Consider that it isn't a ''Spacer'' issue........but a lug nut and stud issue. Likely something was loose and it cascaded into shearing the studs as the spacer is otherwise secure and undamaged. Even without spacers this same failure happens and it's from a loose lug or stretched stud. I would repair the spacer with fresh, quality studs and nuts and torque to 80lbs.

Looks like it wasn’t the spacer at all. Looks like the studs snapped. What did you torque them to? I use cheap 2 in ebay spacer and never had a problem.


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99.9% of the time these failures are user error. Overtightening the lugs causing them to snap. SpiderTrax makes a quality product. This happens all the time with cheap ebay junk but not SpiderTrax. Torque properly, check regularly, they will last forever.

All this sounds scary. Glad the rigs aren’t too badly damaged.


’14 White Trail,Ecotechne rack,XenonDepot HIDS,RSG sliders,6112,RCI skids

factory studs are easy to stretch, there are failures even without spacers. a lot of FJ people upgrade their studs as a preventative measure.

What studs are they using? Sounds like a worth while upgrade for those of us running bigger heavier tires.

Like what other members said. Possibly bolts were over torqued. Sorry to see the damage but glad you are safe.

arp lexus tire studs but prepare too pay a shiny penny.

I don't think upgrading your fasteners will prevent failure (i.e. overtorquing)

I remove by hand and torque by hand every time. 86 foot pounds

I had my spidertrax spacers on for literally 8 years, never took them off or had to re-torque anything. Did you use red loctite & torque them to proper specs?

The red loctite goes on the stock studs, which seems to have held fine though.

I have had 1.25 wheel spacers on for 3+ years, with no problems but I would be lying if I don't worry about it every once in a while.

Good replies! I did just have the breaks done so its possible they were over-torqued. But I didnt do it myself so I cant verify what it was torqued to. To the reply about making an insurance claim, I was considering it but I dont want a higher rate if I can fix it myself for under a grand or so. If airbags deployed most definitely. Side curtain air-bags go for about 1200 new

Always tell the person working on the truck to properly torque the spacers and have them put it in writing on the work order and receipt. As for airbags, insurance would total it for airbag deployment. Cost isn't worth it for them to fix it. Seen it happen to many times.

I had a accident a couple years ago on the trail (no collision) that ended with deployed side curtain airbags. Basically I just hit some rocky terrain and set them off somehow. Insurance did cover it and the bill ended up being about 11-12k.
But I consider that pretty lucky as you said it typically ends with a totaled vehicle

If your messing around wheels and spacers.....hand torque them yourself and check on them regularly. Relying on others to do this for you is asking for trouble.

Glad you are okay. It boggles my mind why people use wheel spacers. New wheels with the correct offset are cheap for our trucks.

True but the offset doesnt quote give you the push that spacers do. I have -10 offset on these and they dont stick out nearly as much :( But not worth it after this. Is there a better way to push out the wheels? New UCAs maybe?

This post needs to be visible as too many people will come to this thread, read the first few posts and assume Spidertrax are bad.

Maybe edit the first post OP?

Been running spidertrax for 3 years on pavement and dirt. I never worry about them. Always torque to the correct spec, apply loctite to the life per the manufacturer and I've never had a problem. I run this truck hard and drive it daily. 65k on my spidertrax.

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What? lol


1.25" = 32mm...SO 32 +10=42. to make your stance the same you need a -40mm or so on a new set of wheels. Assuming all other variables don't change.

SCS has the F5 in a -38 offset.

if they have a brain they'll see it was a stud issue.

Sorry for the rookie question...but the studs that sheared, those were the ones that came with the spacers right, not the original ones? If so are those aftermarket studs cheaper quality?

I'd argue they are better quality then the OEM studs. The front OEM studs are incredibly short too for whatever reason. They (spidertrax studs) just saw a lot more stress due to shops using impacts on those studs when rotating the tires, doing the recent brake job, etc.

Don't use impacts, use a torque wrench. Check the torque periodically.

Likely that the mechanic that did your brakes went full out with an impact and ended up stretching them. Just took the right amount of force to shear the lugs. Take the others off immediately.


And always tell your mechanic to fasten the lugnuts on spacers BY HAND and with a torque wrench.

i'll be the first to admit, i zip them on with a impact on the lowest setting lol. Aint nobody got time to thread them all the way on by hand. I start them by hand, and finish them by hand.....TWSS??

The reason I ask is that I've got a car with over 300k with the original studs. I guarantee that with all the tires I've bought they have been overtorqued more than I'd like to think about and a wheel has never fallen off. I agree stretching studs weakens them but I don't understand why these are failing withing 100k

These: https://www.amazon.com/ARP-1007715-W.../dp/B001O09TBQ ?

User error or not, these just seem unsafe to me personally. They specifically say "OFF-ROAD USE ONLY" in their instructions as a disclaimer. I'd say if you want to widen your stance just get wheels that have them like SCS, Fuel, XD, etc..

I am sure they will listen to you...especially the stealership lol.

Bottom line: If you do not torque to spec, it is possible the studs will shear off and cause such a failure. Does not matter if the studs are grade 8/10.9/OEM/ARP etc...

If you want to poke out more, get wheels with a larger negative offset, as suggested, SCS F5s come in -38 for 17" wheels. They actually seem to be in stock right now too.

Do you need that poke for clearance issues? I'm not having any problems with -10 offsets and 285 MTs.

Yep. Get new wheels that have the desired offset, without the spacers. Not the cheapest route, but definitely the best. Keep in mind that with more offset comes more leverage on suspension parts, and addt'l stress/wear that goes with.

all the suggestions for new/different/proper wheels are great, but it might not prevent this in the future. this was a case of over/under torqued lug
nuts.
that can still happen with just wheels...

This is what you have: https://parts.freemantoyota.com/scs-...17?parent=1019 ?

Who knew Toyota sells them....

But yes, they are SCS Ray 10 Brushed Gold. Order from the source.

https://www.stealthcustomseries.com/products/ray10

IN SUPPORT OF SPACERS
Just a reference point, but I use OEM studs, Spidertrax spacers and studs and wheel with 37's pretty aggressively, for past 1.5yrs. Before that I had 35's for 2 years with spacers. No failures (knock on wood). It's a daily driver too.

HOWEVER
Notwithstanding, I do all lug nut tightening myself even after a shop has done a balance or tire change. I probably check my lug nuts every two months. I don't particularly like spacers. I'm going to 40's and solid axle next and will be happy with no more spacers. I admit to feeling a little uneasy especially when up on three (occasionally two) wheels when in the rocks. I'd never jump my truck (at all) but even less so when using spacers.