33's without the Body Mount Chop
 

I've been planning out my lift and tires for my V8 4runner, and can't seem to find straight answers about 33's that avoid the body mount chop. I'm planning a 3/2 lift, so I should have plenty of lift for 33s, but I want to avoid the body mount chop.

Currently, I have the stock limited wheels, so I was looking at the Falken AT3W 265/70/18, which clocks in at 32.9". That said, I can't seem to find a ton of info on this combo, particularly with regards to avoiding the BMC.

What 33" tires are people running that let them avoid the BMC? Is there a particular wheel offset that makes it easier/harder to do? I'm pretty open to tire/wheel options, but I really want to avoid the BMC if I can.

Most 33s will fit without a chop. When you get an alignment tell them to bring your caster forward about 4 degrees. Toyota should be ashamed people are even having to talk about chopping up a truck to fit 33s.

I ran 255.80.17s for years with no bm chop and a mild lift. My wheels were -10

I now run 285.75.17 and these require a bm chop and body lift.

33s will not fit without a BMC if you plan on doing actual offroading. I had bald falken wildpeaks in the 285/70R17 size with stock 5th gen trail edition wheels. They fit fine on road but I definitely could make them scrub if I tried hard enough. I also don't run a front sway bar so FWIW that may have had something to do with why mine scrubbed because I had more travel

Are you saying get the caster at 4°, or forward 4° more than spec, which would put it at 7°13'?

I had 285/70/17 Duratracs on 17" SCS SR8 wheels with no body mount rubbing. It was super close to rubbing though at full compression. Newer tread of a different set of tires probably would have rubbed. This was without tailoring the caster for more room.

I'm planning to do UCAs when I do my lift specifically to allow for more caster. From what I've read, it helps a lot with the lift.

255/80/17 is what I was considering if I drop down a wheel size. Can't decide if the extra sidewall is worth running a 17 instead of an 18 wheel, which is why I was looking at the 265/70/18.

Agree with you on the Toyota should be ashamed -_-. My guess is though, they would say I should have bought an FJ cruiser if I was worried about tire clearance. The 5th gens seem to be better in this regard as well.

For now, the plan is to setup this rig for 33s while maintaining safety as much as possible (keep the sway bar, no BCM, etc). Maybe in a few years if I get bit by the bug I'll try to make 35s happen, though for that I should have gotten a 3rd gen.

Its just not going to happen. Nobody has ever installed 33's on a 4runner and not had them rub on the frame when off roading. Forget the sway bar and body mount, even after all of that is done the 4runner can turn so sharp that the actual frame hits the tire. There just aren't people who can say that they have done it without rubbing. Even if you are doing something as simple as going up a driveway and turning, either the tires will rub or you do not have 33's, its that simple. 285's are not 33's, they are slightly smaller. 33's are 33x12.5x17.

If you are bored, go ahead and type in the tires size to see the difference here:

Tire Size Comparison

I got 255/80/17=33" all i did, just moved front fender liners forward and removed front mud flaps, oh 1inch daystar on the front. I offroad my truck all the time. If there is any rubbing it is negligible.

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33's without the Body Mount Chop
 

First setup was Toytec 3/2 lift, stock UCA’s, 17x8.5 -6 wheels and 285/70/17 Nitto Trailgrapplers. Only rubbed on the mount when off-road or backing up at full turn. Perfectly fine for street driving, except backing out of the grocery store parking lots I’d forget and rub pretty hard.

Current setup is Icon 3/2 lift, SPC UCA’s, BMC, 1” body lift, 17x9 -38 SCS Ray10’s and 285/70/17 Falken AT3W’s. I must barely be rubbing the mount when backing into my slopes drive because there’s a clean spot on the river side mount. I don’t hear or feel it though so must be very little.

FWIW the UCA’s are set all the way to the forward most position and caster is not great (necessary with these wheels) so she wanders a little on the highway. Nothing I haven’t gotten used to and not enough to make me go back to less aggressive wheels.

pictures of both setups.

Current (before steel bumper for comparisons sake)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4f57b74275.jpg

Old
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...05d04d891d.jpg


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Except most "33x12.5x17" tires are actually 32.5" in diameter. Lookup the BF Goodrich KO2. The jeep guys I ride with all round up to the nearest half inch when describing tire size (which leads to many jokes about games of inches).

Your point is well taken though. The only "true" 33 I'm looking at is the 255/80/17. I was hoping to find some other opinions on people who had done a near 33 on an 18" wheel (either 265/70/18 or 275/70/18, which depending on the tire correspond to 32.7 - 33.3).

Sounds like a 275 is going to need a BMC, which is a shame.

Not really understanding why a BMC is that big of a deal. 2nd/3rd gen Tacoma guys have to do it all the time. You don't lose any structural integrity since you are replacing the chopped material. And you aren't chopping off that much from what I've seen. Benefits outweigh the negatives IMO.

What he said^^^

Also If you're that worried, you can do a Body Mount Relocation like what I have. It uses the same hole in the body but moves the mount back on the frame quite a bit freeing up needed space.

Several pieces I looked at said it may serve as a deflection away from the driver/passenger during a wreck. The whole impetus of this build was rolling an Isuzu Rodeo on an unexpectedly icy road, so for now this is a "safe" build within reason.

Other issue is I don't have welding equipment to reseal the body mount once I chop it off, so getting it closed is $$$. Might still end up with it in my future at this point, but probably not until the next set of tires.

You aren't completely removing the body mount so the chop would not jeopardize the structural integrity nor take away from the extremely remote chance that it could deflect a wreck away from the passenger compartment. If anything, the new material that is added from the chop would make it stronger.

It honestly shouldn't cost too much if you find a welder that will do the work. It's a simple cut and weld. Relentless Fabrication sells a pre-cut plate just for this work - 2003-2018 4Runner Body Mount Chop Plate – Relentless Off-Road Fabrication

If you buy those plates and do the cutting yourself (angle grinder and cutoff wheel), they should only charge you maybe $20-$30 to burn the plates on. Then just rattle can the new metal so it doesn’t rust. It’s not a hard job whatsoever, just find someone who isn’t going to gouge you.


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