Breaking in a New Vehicle
 

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CanadianDriver.com Auto Tech article

Breaking in a New Vehicle
by Jim Kerr

I am asked this question at least a dozen times a week: "how should I drive my new vehicle to break it in?" Breaking in of a new vehicle is a straightforward process but there are many stories told about how to best do this. There is some truth in many of the stories but to separate fact from fiction, we should look at why we need to break a vehicle in.

A good friend often jokes that there is no such thing as "breaking in" a new vehicle - it is just the start of "wearing it out!" There is a little truth here too. The process of breaking in a vehicle means driving it so that parts can wear into each other. Usually, people think the engine is the only part that needs any break in period, but transmissions and drive axles also can benefit from a break in. So how should I drive the vehicle?

Start by avoiding heavy loads on the drivetrain. Full throttle starts, towing trailers, and loading the vehicle with heavy loads place extra force on all moving parts in the drivetrain. When parts are manufactured, their surfaces may look smooth but under magnification, we can see many "hills and valleys". Lubricating oil forms a thin film that separates moving parts so they do not touch. If there is a loss of lubrication or a heavy load placed on the parts, the high spots (hills) may push through the oil film and touch the other part. This causes wear.

The break in process allows the highest of these hills on the parts to wear down under light load so they do not damage other parts. As the parts move, they are polished so that there is less chance on high spots penetrating the oil film when a load is placed on the vehicle.

The manufacturing processes used today are light years ahead of vehicles from the 1960's and 70's. Component finish is better, internal clearances are closer, parts tolerances are more accurate, and materials are better quality. The thousands of miles needed to break in an older vehicle are no longer needed. Instead, it is the first few hours of operation that are the most important. By the time a driver has driven a few hundred kilometres, the vehicle is ready for regular driving.

When starting a new vehicle, engines should not be idled for long periods of time. Oil pressure is lower at idle speed and parts that depend upon splash lubrication may not receive enough oil to prevent high spots from pushing through. Full throttle operation should also be avoided. It places heavy loads on components and high spots can score other components, accelerating the wear. This doesn't mean you need to baby the vehicle.

Drive the vehicle as if you were trying to achieve good fuel economy. Light to medium throttle acceleration is preferred, and keep the engine rpm's in the bottom half of the rpm range. On many engines, this would be below about 3000 rpm for the first few hours. Occasional three-quarter throttle acceleration is fine, as the increased gas pressure in the combustion chamber helps the rings to seal.

Avoid "lugging" the engine. Driving in too high a gear at low speeds makes the engine work harder. It is better to have it running a little faster with less throttle than too low an rpm with more throttle. Modern engines don't need to be driven at slow speeds. Keep up with traffic and drive the speed limit. I wouldn't recommend towing a trailer with a brand new vehicle, but it is done sometimes and the vehicles seem to last well.

Some say that drivers should vary vehicle speeds during the break in period, driving only a few kilometres at one speed. This isn't necessary. If you are going to be driving on the highway, backing off the throttle every few kilometres and letting the vehicle decelerate for a few seconds will pull extra lubrication into the upper engine cylinders and intake valves.

Breaking in a new vehicle isn't a tedious or time consuming process. Drive it normally and with care for the first few hours and it should be ready for many more kilometres ahead.

Early Oil Change
 

I tend to change the oil and oil filter early. Usually 1,500 miles to 2,000 miles. The idea is to get rid of small metal shavings that are present in a new engine. I don't know if it is true, but that is what I have heard.

I have also heard of some car compaines put in special oil during your break-in and should not be changed early.

By the way, on the 3rd generation, the manual says the engine takes 5.2 quarts of oil with a new filter. I have found it takes around 5 3/4 quarts of oil. So if a oil change place charges you for 6 quarts of oil, they are correct and they are not ripping you off.

That's a good question; I recently broke the 1000 mile mark and was wondering if I should bring it in for an oil change. I don't have the manual in front of me but I could swear it said to change the oil ever 5000 miles :confused: ?? I'll check tonight but if it is right, is that okay? Seems a long time.

Neech,

It is NOT necessary to change oil after the first 1000 miles. Some people do this because it was once thought to be better for your car...this has never been proven. In fact, in some cars (like Hondas), it is not wise to change the oil after the first 1000 miles because Honda adds a special break-in oil additive from the factory...therefore, you do not want to change the oil too early. I am not sure about Toyota vehicles.

For me, i changed oil after the first 3000 miles, and then at 5000 miles with every 5000 mile interval thereafter.

Hope this helps.

Neech,

Most modern cars ask for 7,500 miles for oil changes and 5,000 for high stress driving, such as towing. Also, Toyota does not recommend changing oil early to help in break in. My 2001 says 7,500 miles or 5,000 miles for oil changes.

Some reasons for the high mileage is better oil and better engines and I think one more reason is to reduce maintaince cost. At least on paper. The question is "what is best for me?". My reasons for changing oil often, is engine work harder for more power, cars are very expensive. I keep cars for ever, (see my post on what we drive besides a 4Runner and you will see a picture of my 180,000 second car), so I believe in changing oil early.

Now about changing oil early in the break-in, sure it isn't required, but I believe it is a good idea.

So, bottom line, some people say go a long time with good oil and some say go shorter. Decide what is best for your situation and your peace of mind.

I belive a lot of experts are now recommending 5,000 miles as a good compromise, i.e. Consumer Reports, Tom and Ray of Cartalk.

For me, I go with 3,000 mile oil change and now 5,000 mile oil change with synthetic oil. I also go 1,500 or so for the first oil change.

Decide what to do and try and stick with it. ;)

break in
 

the best way to break-in a new 4x4, is to go srtaight off the lot, to the nearest woods, get that thing in the mud, get a few scratches down the side.. and YES thats exactly what i did, had to test out the 4 wheel drive...
ohhhh what a feeling,, :(

Thai,

Are you saying that it's better to be on the 1 gear doing 3,500 rpms going 25 mph, then be on the D or 4 gear and doing 1,500 rpms, going 25 mph?

I have a 04 4runner, SE, V8, 4x4, 5 speed.

SE, nope...you want to VARY your RPMs. Keep your truck in "D". Just vary your gas pedal once in a while if you're on the highway...accelerate a little for a while...slow down a little for a while...etc..

My dealer has an offer from Castrol GTX that if you change your oil and filter every 4K miles or 4 months whichever comes first they will warrant you engine agains't any oil related failure for 300K miles. I'm going to use this as my guide. I will change the first time at 3K miles and then every 4K miles. I also like the fact that the checklist that my Toyota dealer uses for their quick lube service checks everything on the list for warranty coverage.

300k mile warranty
 

Quaker State did this a while ago (during the 90's). It is cheap insurance for that particular type of oil breakdown. The only limitations to the warranty is that you have to prove you used only Castrol (or Quaker state in my case) for all oil changes, and you had the oil changed (written documentation) within 10% of the miles of the oil change interface (for 3000 miles, change between 2700 and 3300 miles).

If you are changing the oil yourself, you have no proof of the oil changes, no proof that this was only castrol oil and hence they can reject your claim. For those of us that don't have time to change the oil out on our rigs, the service department will fill out the necessary paperwork for you.

Another thought about that early oil change. If you think they make the engine and it goes right in a car and then right to the dealer you could be wrong. Sometimes engines do not get installed for months. The engine is built, filled with oil and test run and sometimes put into short term storage. Then it goes to your car/truck and sometimes it goes to some kind of short term storage, again. This may be a very short cycle, but it could stack up a bit. Then it goes to your dealer and may not sell for six months or more.

That first change may help to get rid of moisture in the crankcase.

Larry that is a good point that I had not thought of. My 4runner was built the first of January 2004 and I bought it the first of April. I now have around 1300 miles on it now but the oil is atleast 4 months old. I will need to change it before the end of the month.

Pitbull, I have done a lot of maintenance software development. A few years ago we started tracking engines from build/test date to retail delivery. Some brands averaged 185 days, others over 250 days. If you drive in other than ideal conditions your vehicle may be due for an oil change very soon after you take delivery. One domestic brand of SUV had a $5k rebate on vehicles that were over 500 days. Maybe those vehicles were in violation before retail delivery. The driving conditions at a dealer for a new vehicle can be the most sever the vehicle will ever see.

And what are ideal conditions, maybe a 72 degree day and a 25 to 50 mile trip with no stop lights or signs on a paved road with no rain, snow or dust at 45 mph. Shame on us 4Runner owners that drive in the snow or rain or on a hot day in the desert dust.

In other words you might need that oil change by owner's manual definitions soon after the day of delivery. Also if you ever have a warranty claim on your running gear, you had better have been following the 'severe' schedule. If the factory finds out you have been driving your vehicle in hot or cold weather or stop and go driving or hit a red light on the way to the dealer then he (she) will put you there.

The moderate schedule is only there for advertising...you know, cost of ownership. To actually follow it, with some brands of vehicles, is a risk.

Oh, by the way don't get caught up in the bleeding edge of legal requirements. For oil changes it goes something like this.... you don't have to change you oil on any factory schedule as long as you can prove you are using the correct kind and viscosity oil and have no time periods where you oil fails an oil analysis by a 'qualified' lab as done by a 'qualified' mechanic or other technician.

And about that Honda special breakin oil, it does it job in about the first couple of hours of engine operation. That's the time it takes any modern engine to 'seat the rings'.

Now that we have an idea of maintenance by oil changes, the next thing is oil filters. They are unclassified, unregulated and there is a lot of junk out there.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Here's what I do with my 03 V8. It's Mobil 1 5w-30 and the 209 Mobil 1 Filter (longer and more capacity and media area than the recomended one). I buy oil and filters by the case and change every 5k miles. I looked at all the filters and there's too much risk out there. The Mobil 1 is made by Champion and is of known and consistant quality. Some other brand names are names only.

My first changes were at 2k and 5k so it was 2k miles and 3k miles and then 5k miles after that. I keep receipts and a log book and do analysis once a year.

Larry good post. I changed the oil/filter in my wifes new 350Z at 1200 miles. I will change the 4 runner next week after a 8 hour road trip I am going on over the next couple of days. That should put it at around 1800 miles. The wifes OCI is every 3K miles and the 4runners will be every 3K-3.75K miles. These will be dealer changes using dino with OEM filters. I will start using Mobil 1 with OEM filters at a 5K mile OCI, done by a friends car repair business after a few thousand miles on both vehicles (10K mile range). I will trade both vehicles before they reach 100K miles but still like to take care of the equipment. I alway follow the severe schle for car care based on the manufactures recommendation. I would buy used vehicles if they were owned by someone like me. Problem is with used vehicles you never really know how they were taken care of.

I'm changing to mobil1 at 1k miles.

Here is a break-in procedure that a lot of performance enthusiasts swear by:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm