Heater control valve replace, purge?
 

Good morning everyone. New to the forum. I have a 01 t4r and i just replaced the heater control valve, which was fairly easy. Would i need to purge the cooling system to remove any air pockets? FYI before the replacement, my radiator was full and reservoir was maxed out. I lost minimal coolant cause i plugged both LT and RT hoses right away.

After speaking to numerous people this is their input.

First guy (tech at toyota) : Replace the part, make sure the motor is cool, remove the radiator cap, fill to top and fill to max in reservoir. Turn the heater knob to highest setting, fan on lowest setting, turn the vehicle on and keep and eye on the temp gauge.

2nd guy: You may need to burp it, replace part, undo the radiator cap 1 click so air can escape. Cruise around the neighbor hood at slow speeds for 15 min and then I should be good.

3rd guy: replace the part, fill the reservoir and go about living my life. (similar to the first guy, he aslo stated he highly doubts I'll have a major air pocket from replacing the valve)


Lastly, the coolant was filled roughly 3/4" above the max line on the res. Will this be an issue or should i get a turky baster and remove the excess? I just moved to TX from CA and this thing handled very well, BUT long story short.. On the way here the fuel gauge stopped working and said I had half a tank of petrol and I ran out on an inclined hill. Towed the vehicle thinking my transmissions took a dump, dealer told me I needed a new fuel pump and sending unit. After researching, I called BS and told them to put gas in the car and I was on my way. Per the reasearch, I tapped into the black and brown wire on the resistor on the fuel pump cap and re grounded it by drilling a hole into the floor and removing the ecoat. Hopefully that fixed the fuel gauge issue, cant tell yet cause i think i have more than half a tank a gas.

Send it. No worries with such a small amount of coolant loss, assuming the rest of the system is working (the radiator cap and overflow tank will do the purging with each heat cycle). You will need to turn the heat on max for a bit to clear the single bubble out to the heater core loop though, as mentioned.

-Charlie

Being the control valve is at one of the highest points in the heating system. You be fine... The air will work itself it...:-)

Just make sure you drive around with the heat valve on max for a few days of driving.


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I go with option 3.
I wouldn't worry about excess in the over flow bottle.

I've owned 3 of these vehicles and never, ever had an issue with an air pocket.
I've drained the cooling system many times and I just fill it up and monitor the level for a few days.