Overheating after head gaskets
Moved from All Questions thread.
Just finished my head gaskets and the truck is running much better than before, smoother idle, no more hesitation, and no more white smoke. but I'm having some overheating issues. Doesn't overheat idling, only while driving. If I stop at a light or stop sign and raise revs in neutral the temp will go down a bit. There's a new oem water pump, timing belt, thermostat and fan clutch. I've burped the system using a no spill funnel while parked on a hill. The only thing left I can think of is clogged coolant passage or I seriously fked something up doing the head gasket. But the car feels like it's running better than ever except for the overheating issue What else could I be missing?? Would having the tstat jiggle valve in the wrong orientation cause this much of an issue? I havent pressure test the cooling system or compression check yet, I guess that's next up. |
The thermostat jiggle valve in the wrong orientation, which would be in the 12 o'clock position, will cause your engine to run approximately 10 degrees hotter. It's a decent difference, but not enough to cause the engine to overheat. A normally functioning cooling system on the 5VZ-FE engine will run between 188-192, but will go up depending on the ambient temps and driving conditions.
What temps are you seeing? Are you consuming any coolant? |
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Were the cylinder heads inspected/tested for cracks when the head gaskets were replaced? I would also check the oil to see if there are any signs of coolant in it. I'm guessing you either still have air in the system or something was missed during your headgasket repair.
Good luck and let us know what you find. |
You say head gaskets so I'm assuming it's the V6.
Are you sure you put the left gasket on the left head and the right gasket on the right head? |
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When the engine gets hot and i turn it off i can hear a lot of boiling/bubbling/gurgling inside the radiator/hoses |
You may still have air pockets inside the engine block.
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-Charlie |
Does your overflow always go back to the same cold level?
Generally three heat cycles with a properly operating rad cap should push all the air out of the system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I need to try and get the truck mobile so I can get back to my garage so I can figure this out. But my house is 25 miles away up a steep mountain so it'll take all day to limp there. I want to try running without the thermostat and see if that'll get me home or at least to a shop. The gasket/o-ring is on the thermostat so will the neck leak if I remove the thermostat? BTW I got a scan tool so I'll grab some helpful data next time I'm with the car |
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Or, you could make a gasket out of paper type gasket material or even the right kind of thin cardboard. There's various technique's, all of them easy and quick. |
And to repeat what Tim said - when you figure this out and put in the final TStat, make sure the jiggle valve is down at 6 O'Clock. My temps dropped 13 degrees immediately after doing so. I had swapped in a new radiator and oriented the TStat the way the previous mechanic had....wrong.
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