Steering frustrations
I have a 2006 V6 4wd with roughly 225k miles. Last year I brought it in to a shop for a stiff steering issue and long story short they changed the rack, both front axles (boots torn) and the intermediate shaft. None of those were particularly bad so a total waste if money.
The fluid was changed numerous times because the shop didn't purge the air correctly and it was like strawberry milk. One year later and absolutely nothing has changed. When I take a left or right turn the steering won't fully return to center like my Sienna does and I have to manually correct it so I don't wind up in a ditch. Doing my own testing, I put the entire front in the air and turned the wheel with the engine off. It definitely has a bind somewhere. The Toyota dealer couldn't find anything wrong. I'm at my wits end with this truck. Combine this with the cracked evaporator and Xreas needing changed, it's making my hair grey. The only thing I haven't changed yet is the PS pump but both shops said it's fine. |
Hmm yea - that is frustrating. Very strange that if it feels like it is binding and had the rack replaced recently that a new rack didnt fix it.
Presumably youre not running huge oversized tires. Youve replaced the whole steering system and so unless you got another bad part, thats very odd. Presumably, youre not leaking power steering fluid/ have low pressure. I believe the 4runner is supposed to use ATF fluid in the power steering set up. I guess if at some point someone was using too high a viscosity fluid in the power steering pump that it would make it more stiff and less responsive. Have you checked the power steering lines to make sure there is no corrosion? Otherwise youre left with the tie rods or a bad wheel hub assembly Good luck |
Could be bad lower ball joints. I have had that problem in the past. Lay under the truck and have someone turn the wheel and feel for rough binding on all moving parts
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See, that's what I thought too maybe the ball joints but the shops said they were fine. I'm almost thinking it's something in the steering column at this point.
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There are 2 sets of u-joints in the steering column. One is inside of the rig and the other is outside. Which "intermediate " shaft did they swap out? I'm assuming it's the one that is outside... could be worth spending a little time under the dash to unbolt 2 bolts that secure the shaft inside the rig and just feeling what the interior U-joint is doing..
I have 0 faith in shop work or the troubleshooting they can do, be it at toyota or elsewhere, so what I would suggest.. if you don't find an issue with the interior u-joint on the shaft, is to disconnect both outter tie rods, get the front end in the air, and just manually turn each wheel left/right to see if you can feel any binding/resistance in either the upper or lower balljoint. With the outer tie rods disconnected you can also give the steering rack a check by steering lock-to-lock left/right and see if you feel any sort of hard steering/binding. In the air with no tie rods connected you should be able to steer with your pinky with next to no resistance. |
^^^ That is what I was thinking. Gotta narrow it down. Easy to pop the tie-rod ends off to isolate.
So it didn't get any better after those parts were replaced? The only time I've felt this issue it was that steering shaft right on the engine side of the firewall. PIA to swap so do make sure it looks new at least. I trust no mechanics including myself which is why I check all my own work at least twice. |
Check the power steering hoses. It's just like brake hoses. If they are collapsed inside you are getting fluid in one direction but not another. That could cause the binding feeling and stiffness.
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anyway to t/shoot the rack or pinpoint the problem to the rack? |
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you inspect the steering pump fluid and see if its actually pumping/circulating fluid |
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Thankfully, my TR4 has not had steering problems but binding is panic inducing for sure. Members have covered the causes well. In other cars, firewall bushing where the steering passes through can cause binding. |
Glad to hear you got it resolved. Mine does not fully return the steering wheel to center after making a turn. It will return most of the way to center, but lacks the last quarter turn, sometimes eighth of a turn or so. It’s more pronounced at slower speeds and when in H2 vs H4. When it’s in H4 with all the wheels powered the steering wheel seems to return to center a little better.
First, I got an alignment. That didn’t make much difference. I’ve changed the intermediate shaft at the rack/steering column. I’ve replaced the tie rod ends, all with new OEM Toyota parts. I’ve flushed the power steering fluid twice because it appeared the previous owner had the wrong fluid in it. All of these things did seem to improve the issue, but it’s not completely resolved. The steering wheel did not have any resistance on it when the column was disconnected so it’s something on the frame side, not the dash side. A friend gave me some brand new take-off upper control arms from his Tacoma and I’ll be installing those today. Maybe the new upper ball joints will fix this. Maybe not. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the power steering pump, but there could be. It sounds like it’s working fine and otherwise the truck isn’t hard to steer. It does require a little more effort than most other newer vehicles I’ve owned, especially when in H4 (center diff unlocked). |
SOLVED!
Just replaced both front upper control arms and now the 4Runner steers much better. The steering wheel returns to center as it should and the vehicle tracks much better at highway speeds. It also rides better. I’m going to assume the old upper ball joints were causing some resistance in the steering. When I took them off the truck I could still spin them by hand so I’m surprised this worked! I think my issue was a combination of many things… sticking ball joints at the steering tie rod ends, the upper ball joints, the steering intermediate shaft u-joint, incorrect power steering fluid, and a poor alignment. Sheesh. I hope this post helps someone else. I basically had to throw the kitchen sink at mine, but it’s finally driving good. |
I have one suggestion for everyone. Go get yourselves a needle fitting and a good grease gun ( if you don't have one already). The fitting looks like a needle that a Dr would use. The fittings are about $5.00. This is used for vehicles that don't have grease fittings. Fords were famous for speaking joints. Just pierce the rubber and squeeze away.
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