The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
I'm creating this thread to consolidate a lot of the information that is floating around about the 3.4l superchargers. I will continually add to this thread as I find more info, but will start it off with
@BigFishAllDay
's amazing post that started in
@rickashay
's build thread. I have recently acquired a supercharger with no mounting hardware and will update the thread to include where I found some of the harder items on this list.
Please feel free to post up links/info you feel are important and I will add them the original post. Quote:
http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/y...1.jpg~original http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/y...b.jpg~original Thanks to @4-Ripcord for his write up in the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...tml#post706266. TRD Supercharger: One highly sought after option for these trucks is the TRD Supercharger! There are 2 different versions of the TRD supercharger for the 3.4L V6. -It is important to note that this was a dealer option, meaning that you could not order a 4runner from the factory with the TRD supercharger in any option package. You just had to buy one after you got the 4runner and the dealer installed it. Both the 1st and 2nd gen superchargers are M62 superchargers made by Magnuson and produce the exact same power increases. The only differences between them are appearances and ease of maintenance. The first page I would recommend you read is this one: TRD Supercharger Here, gadget (who is a pioneer of TRD superchargers and performance modifications) explains what superchargers are, how they work, and the differences between the 2 generations. The 1st Generation TRD supercharger. http://www.gadgetonline.com/SCFront.jpg~original Courtesy of Gadget . The 2nd (aka 4th) Generation TRD supercharger. http://www.gadgetonline.com/SCgen2.jpg~original Courtesy of Gadget . Basic specs: Gains with only supercharger (no fuel mods) Courtesy of Ultimate Yota. --------- Known Issues: There are a few documented issues with the superchargers. Most of which arise due to lack of supporting fuel mods. An in-depth list can be found here: UltimateYota.com Things such as high gear/low rpms pinging, high rpm lean out, automatic transmission wear. These symptoms are cured with URD's 7th injector kit. It helps to supply extra fuel when needed when the stock system cannot keep up with how much air is being pumped in. The tuning computer and two-step cooler spark plugs included with the kit helps by ret@rding timing more than the stock computer is capable of doing. This kit also adds top end power becuase it helps to meet this needs. Underdog Racing Development If you do not feel a need for this extra injector and tuning computer, at least get two-step cooler spark plugs to help with proper timing. Denso Iridium IK22 are the ones you want. ------------------- Issues that are not covered there are as follows: Belt slippage There are two types of Tensioners that come with the TRD superchargers, they are interchangeable. with the old-style static tensioner you can experience belt slippage when you really step on the pedal. -The Static tensioner is just a plate with a pulley on it, you manage the belt tension with the alternator tensioner bolt. -The Dynamic tensioner is a spring loaded arm with a pulley on it that takes care of the belt tension itself. The dynamic tensioner can by found for around $280, the part number is: PTR29-60032. --- Supercharger wear The bearings in the nose cone of the supercharger are only rated to last about 100k miles. This is one area where the 2nd gen supercharger really shows its advantages. -The 1st gen unit must be taken off and either sent in to Magnuson to be rebuilt (usually $500+) or rebuilt at home if you have the right tools. DIY rebuilds can be done for around $200 with a lot of elbow grease. Here is a detailed thread of a full rebuild of a first gen unit by Chris360hawks: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...-write-up.html Here is a thread where member Coinball rebuilt his 1st gen unit: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...hoopty-go.html -The 2nd (4th) gen unit can be rebuilt in your garage while its still on the vehicle. To do so you need the TRD Nose cone kit (PN: PTR29-35042) it comes with a new nose cone with the bearing already pressed in and a bottle of new supercharger oil and some gasket sealant. Here is a thread that really shows how that is done: 3.4 Supercharger Nose-Drive Replacement - CustomTacos.com Forum ------- Broken Bypass valves The bypass valves on the 2nd gen units are known to fail and/or break the rivets off. Also the rubber inside them can dryout and crack which leads to boost leakage. Replacements are under $100. Available through LCE performance: Supercharger Accessories - 5VZ TRD Bypass Valve ================================================== ========== Supercharger Performance upgrades Smaller Pulley URD sells an assortment of smaller sized pullies. It is recommended that you have sufficient fuel modifications to support the increased amount of air being pumped in by smaller pullies. Underdog Racing Development -Stock is 2.37" and the truck runs at about 7 psi -URD 2.2" increases max boost by 1.5-2 psi over stock. This is the most common pulley to add. -URD 2.1" increases max boost by 3.5-4 psi over stock. Tuning is highly recommended with a pulley this small. *Note that the supercharger is known to handle about 15 max, so be careful. ----- Methanol Injection: Some users choose to add methanol injection instead of or in addition to extra fuel injectors. Methanol injection changes the A/F ratio at high throttle to increase power. Here is the main thread Methanol users go to start out: Texas_Ace's Cheap DIY Meth/Water Injection kit Writeup! Get 10hp+ for under $150! - YotaTech Forums Pros: -inexpensive -Fairly simple to install Cons: -Have to refill methanol tank occasionally -In-Depth Tuning is pretty much required ----- Cooler thermostat The stock thermostat is rated at 180* F and keeps the engine around 193-195*. However, The stock thermostat is known to be unable to keep the engine in the optimum range of temperatures with a supercharger. With a supercharger, you will notice temps above 200* very often. Stant 14077 is a 170* thermostat and will maintain a cool engine despite whatever high performance runs you are doing on the supercharger. With a supercharger, expect to see temps of 185-190* The TRD thermostat is a 160* and many people recommend running this ONLY if you do a very accurate tune and are trying for maximum performance. Be cautious with this one. You will often see the engine running around 175-180*. ------- Performance Headers headers are the manifolds that handle the exhaust gasses from the engine. The stock headers are not known to be very efficient. Performance headers can increase power by approximately 10-15hp. Brands of performance headers for these vehicles are: -TRD -Doug Thorley -OBX ----- High Flow Exhaust Any high flow muffler is a good idea to match the increased volume of air going through the engine. It is also beneficial to add a high flow Catalytic converter, although doing this will trigger an O2 sensor code. So if you decide on a high flow CAT, also look into the URD rear O2 sim kit. It will prevent the code. Underdog Racing Development |
Rebuild Post
In this post I will relay all information regarding rebuilding your supercharger and where to find the parts. Does my SC need a rebuild? This questions is thrown around quite often and is very hard to determine without hearing it run or a full visual inspection. TRD recommends 30-60K oil change intervals and a full rebuild around 100k. This is true, but can vary a lot depending on the maintenance and use of the SC. Will a nose cone rebuild/replacement be enough?Again this is hard to determine. In most cases you can get away with a nose cone replacement and be fine, but at around 100k I would look further into a full rebuild. The nose cone is important and often will leak oil through a failing seal causing the bearings to run dry and fail faster. This will often cause a lot of noise and a mess in your engine bay. Replacing the coupler can help with performance and can cause issues with how the SC functions. A bad coupler causes slop in the connection between the nose shaft and the rotors. Any slack or slop will cause a lack of performance. Here is a video displaying a bad coupler. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Lsr3uPYIALI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Parts list: -1 6303 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9868 -1 6204 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9836? -2 6203 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9835 -2 Rear Needle Bearings (Purchased these from Rolling Performance, part number on box is F-65477.1 or 6002544) - These are currently on back order from most places but can be found on ebay or random parts suppliers. I got mine from here: http://spinningwheels-sc.com/eatonm9...ebearings.aspx and they can also be found on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-seal-...3D261602696381 -1 Supercharger Coupler - Don't use the cheap ebay ones, but go with rolling performance or the like: http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm -1 Viton Nose Seal (Rolling Performance) -http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm -2 4oz Bottles of AC Delco Supercharger Oil - Either Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Fluid-...percharger+oil or rolling performance: http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm -2 Rotor Pack Seals Jon Bond Performance, they are expensive https://jonbondperformance.com/index...646vvseh0c2e37 or I found some at Spinning Wheels SC. http://spinningwheels-sc.com/superchargersandmore.aspx They don't list them on their site, but call and ask, they are extremely nice and helpful. Even threw in a free nose cone seal when I ordered. - 1 Tube of Permatex Red Gasket Maker - http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm or http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-51813...c+gasket+maker List courtesy of @chris360hawks Those are the basic parts list most of us will need to rebuild both the 1st and 2nd gen supercharger. 1st gen's may require some gaskets for the rear inlet connections, but they should be fine. For the black 2nd gen kits you can purchase a pre-rebuilt nose cone directly from Toyota (1st gen model has been discontinued). It will have all new bearings and seals and come with new oil, coupler and gasket maker. http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com...dproduct=-8881 IMO, it's not a very good deal unless you don't want to hassle with rebuilding your own. It's literally $50 in parts to rebuild the front nose cone and you can purchase a new shop press for less than the rebuilt kit from Toyota. By that rationale, you will be getting a free shop press by doing it yourself. There is also a refresh kit that can be bought to replace the coupler and oil. Again not a very good deal, but not horrible. http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com...dproduct=-8080 Tools: A shop press is very helpful for the rebuild and recommended if doing it at home. I got a 20 ton and it is perfect for pressing out the bearings and rotors. Enough power to press them out without straining itself, but not so much that it will shatter your parts to pieces. I went with this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-...ess-60603.html It has worked good so far and there are coupons for $150 all the time. Sockets are useful to press the bearings and rotors out. A basic set should be enough with maybe one larger socket to use on the bearings. My 35mm is just a little too big to fit on the outer race of the front nose cone bearings. Razor blade to remove the excess glue from the rotor pack seals and to cut the rotor pack seals. Screwdrivers to help remove the seals and separate the nose cone and rotor pack from the housing. An impact wrench is very nice to have when removing the 8 bolts holding the nose cone on and removing the nose cone nut. How To's: 1st gen rebuild courtesy of @chris360hawks http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...-write-up.html 1st gen rebuild courtesy of @coinball http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...hoopty-go.html Nose cone rebuild courtesy of @Rockdawg84 http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...build-mod.html 2nd gen nose cone rebuild http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195191 2nd gen rebuild (with no press) http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...r-rebuild.html These write ups should cover most of what you will encounter. I am currently rebuilding a 1st gen unit and will be posting my own write up/tips as I finish up. |
Performance Upgrades (to be updated)
AEM FIC 6 Install/Tuning Guide http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...lp-thread.html by @MTD URD 7th Injector Tuning Guide http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ing-guide.html by @shootmymime |
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@rideexileex
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Do you have pictures of the dipstick relocation bracket, manifold spacer and throttle bracket you made/used? It would be useful since we both have 2000's so no difference in anything like the 01-02's. |
I'm only posting here cus I'm jealous I don't have one :pout:
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I don't currently have any plans to supercharge mine, but if I ever do, I have a feeling this thread will come in handy. Thanks for taking the time to consolidate info on it for us!
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thanks for the handy reference info
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Imma sticky this thread. Good info and its asked about often. If we decide to add it to a reference thread then i can unstick it but lets leave it up for now
:cheers: |
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Just an FYI to everyone, I will be adding links to all sorts of s/c topics, but that will take time. |
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