Spc upper control arms
Sup everyone just wondering how many of you have experience with these uca and what's your pros and cons on them? I've recently got these as a gift and want to know your inputs on them, also if it's a difficult task to get them on. I found a video on YouTube on how to but I figured I'd ask and see if any of you have some tips on getting them installed,
MAHALO "thank you" lol Brandon |
Had them on my 2011 tacoma. Install is straight forward and will correct any alignment issues you might have. By far the most adjustable UCA I know of. Performance will be very similar to stock and will allow stock geometry in lifted trucks.
One thing I found to be very helpful is to take the alignment instructions sheet with me and give it to the tech when you get it aligned. Encourage them to read it and it will be a breeze. Some want to be stubborn and assume they know how to do it and will struggle until they read the instructions. |
As far as cons they will not allow for big gains in wheel travel like a uniball or similar UCA. If you plan to run them with stock length shocks I think you will be happy.
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I believe they are the exact same as the light racing arms.
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what is the P/N, price and where did you order from?
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I got my Light Racing (SPC) UCAs from Fat Bob's Garage. I think it was around $390 shipped.
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This video makes it really simple, but keep in mind it would be for a 4th gen so there will be some variance.
25470 -25480- 25490 -Toyota Tacoma/Tundra Adjustable Upper Control Arms - Specialty Products Company - YouTube |
They do allow more wheel travel than stock with lifted suspension. The balljoints are immensely better than stock and allow that travel. I love mine.
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Being that I don't have the tools you guys think this could get the job done? Or should I look for a more sturdy gear puller? Btw I found the link http://youtu.be/VumGrEOYSOc
TEKTON 5696 Gear Puller Set, 3-Piece Amazon.com: TEKTON 5696 Gear Puller Set, 3-Piece: Home Improvement Lisle 41970 Heavy Duty Pitman Arm Puller for Ford Amazon.com: Lisle 41970 Heavy Duty Pitman Arm Puller for Ford: Automotive |
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Honestly the install is very simple. It will make alot more sense once you are looking at it and have all the parts. I used a 3jaw puller to remove the old balljoint and press in the new adapter. worked like a charm. I also used a socket (one that fit the balljoint cup, and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter to center the rod in the socket as it was biting into the socket before and the adapter stopped that. Oh and my best piece of advice is to take off the old balljoint snap rings before you try and press the balljoint out... <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163125" title="IMG_4500 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/12278163125_8650df2126_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4500"></a> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163795" title="IMG_4499 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3775/12278163795_11c9e19d2d_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4499"></a> |
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I used a pickle fork style tool to remove mine. It was very easy and they only cost like $10. |
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Really? I feel like there would be no way I could've gotten the balljoint out of the spindle with a pickle. Maybe it's the rust bond haha. FWIW I rented my tools from oreillys so it didn't cost me anything in the end. Can't bring myself to by tools I can rent even though buying one would probably be smarter in the long run haha |
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