1997 LED Light bar install
It's been busy with school and all, so I haven't gotten a chance to do a write up for installing the light bar.
Well, here it is! Supplies
Price: Fog $77.99 Harness $17.99 Switch $10.95 L-Brackets $6.08 Total $113.01 Installation First, you have to cut out the plastic section of the bumper directly below the grill. I used a hack saw, and kinda f***'d up the bumper, so be careful as you cut. http://i.imgur.com/7SyxMMZl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RxnHFyQl.jpg The middle is held on to the physical bumper via two 10mm bolts, I them off after I cut the entire thing out, but that's up to you. Next, drill another hole about an inch down from the pre-drilled hole on the L-Brackets. Now, pre-drill two holes into the lower radiator support on each side. The two larger holes on the end were just about the perfect distance apart (roughly 24"). BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN DRILLING. THERE IS ONLY A COUPLE INCHES BETWEEN THE BIT AND THE RADIATOR. Passenger side: http://i.imgur.com/reVAveal.jpg Driver side: http://i.imgur.com/lhiIh3Pl.jpg Note the condenser pipe location on the drivers side. Using a hack saw, cut small blocks of the lower lip out where the L-Brackets are. Roughly 1.5" in, and 1" wide. This will allow the supports of the light bar to attach to the L-bracket, and brings the bar slight farther forward. http://i.imgur.com/pxSk98yl.jpg And then the same on the other side. Wiring Now, run the wiring harness. (Sorry I didn't take any pictures, I decided it was a good idea to do it at night and in the rain.) BE CAREFUL WHILE WORKING AROUND BATTERIES/ELECTRICITY. It's fairly simple. Poke a small hole in the rubber grommet (rear drivers side of engine bay), and feed the switch end of the harness through, without the switch attached. Then run the wires up to one of the switch covers, and connect the switch. Next, run the wires down to where the light bar will be, and organize (wire ties) the relay, fuse, and extra wires on the drivers side near the battery. Connect the negative (black) wires for the switch and relay to the negative terminal battery, then the positive (red) wires to the positive terminal of the battery. (The harness comes with instructions) Connect the light bar with the harness. Final Installation Using the supplied mounting bolts from the light bar, attach to the L-Brackets, and tighten the bolts up well. Test the system out, and voila! 7500 lumens! http://i.imgur.com/672OOlNl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/yOH3vv3l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FOOvaVhl.jpg Driving back from skiing through a pitch black state forest, this came quite in handy. http://i.imgur.com/QdKl2pIl.jpg BE CAREFUL NOT TO HAVE OTHER FOG LIGHTS ON AT THE SAME TIME (Not like you could see them, these drown out my low beams) THE STANDARD ALTERNATOR ONLY PUTS OUT ROUGHLY 35AMPS AT IDLE, 10 OF WHICH WILL GO TO THE LIGHT BAR, THE REST TO YOUR HEADLIGHTS, DASH LIGHTS, BLOWER FAN, HEAD UNIT, ETC... Eventually, I will relay the system so that only the Hella Fogs or the LED bar can be on at a time, which I will post here when I do. In the meantime, I just have to be aware of which is on. (Thanks to @csp and @Unner for trying to help here). If you have any questions, feel free to ask! |
Have a pic of the light off and installed?
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Looks good bro. But 40amp fuse ? I got 41.5" led bar with 30amp and its fine.
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I was just going off the link description :).
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I still want to see pics of the bar mounted with the light off :).
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Let's see some pics with the light bar off. Also curios how much jitter you have with the lightweight brackets. |
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Here are the pics! http://i.imgur.com/672OOlNl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QJC3r4Zl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/eask8i9l.jpg |
oh that looks nice!!!
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Looks good!
I mounted mine to the top of the fat lip style bumper with some homemade aluminum brackets and they don't move much either. It's barely noticeable going down a gravel/rutted washboard road at pretty good speeds. |
I was just going off the link descriptionhttp://financenot.com/1c.jpg
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Looks very clean. I like it.
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