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-   -   CEL, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF + P0333 = Mice ate my knock sensor wires! - FIXED (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-and-warranty-issues/246032-cel-vsc-trac-vsc-off-p0333-=-mice-ate-my-knock-sensor-wires-fixed.html)

GMZ 10-27-2017 06:38 PM

CEL, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF + P0333 = Mice ate my knock sensor wires! - FIXED
 
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Very little info on this issue. All was fine last night. When I started my 4R this morning I got the lit up dash. Thought it might be a gas cap so I retightened and went to work. On the way I had sluggish performance and it would not shift to 5th. Got off work and got the code read and came up P0330 knock sensor 2 high value. ECM went max retard on timing and wouldn't go into 5th as a safe measure.

Doing a little research the sensors rarely go bad, but rodents eating the wires is the main culprit. Off to HD I go to get the Milwaukee inspection camera I always wanted and sure enough the wires are cut. I usually garage my 4R but came home late and left it outside, temps dropped lower than usual and I guess they couldn't resist. Im lucky that they didnt chew the wires right off the connector, it should be easy to solder in some new wire. There is no sub harness for the knock sensors and I assume the dealer would want to replace the whole engine harness at $2478 so Ill be tackling this repair myself this weekend.

Pics to follow. Anyone know what specific type of wire it is? Shielded double coil is about the most info I could find.

ETA: Looks like I might have enough wire to just re-solder.

GMZ 10-28-2017 07:28 PM

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Fixed in about 5 hours, no big deal. Should have changed out the AIP while I was in there but I should have it down to a couple hours next time.

Took a pic before I started to make sure I had everything as it was.

GMZ 10-28-2017 07:29 PM

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Pull the fuse to open the fuel circuit, open the gas cap, then let it run until it dies.

GMZ 10-28-2017 07:31 PM

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The FSM says to drain the coolant, but I just took the TB off instead. This made things a bit of a challenge later on. Ready to remove intake manifold.

GMZ 10-28-2017 07:32 PM

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Intake removed to reveal AIP, starter, and water bypass pipe.

GMZ 10-28-2017 07:36 PM

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Since I didnt drain the coolant, I couldn't remove the water bypass pipe like the FSM said to. So I unbolted the AIP from the bracket and wiggled it out, then removed the bracket. The pipe is blocking the FWD LH nut from overhead access so have to come from the side. Might be able to thread a 1/4" extension through the gap.

GMZ 10-28-2017 07:44 PM

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I had just enough wire still attached to just solder the ends together. Applied heat shrink, then electrical tape, then plastic hose covering back on.

Started her up, all conditions normal. It took me about 3 hours to break everything down, an hour to repair/clean up, then an hour to reassemble.

Took it slow and read the FSM, had no issues. A magnetic tool retriever and small flashlight were useful. On a couple bolts in the back I had to swap around my sockets and extensions from shallow to deep and 3-6-9" to make things a bit easier.

RosettaRock1 12-05-2020 04:24 PM

Great write up, can you tell me which FSM section you used? I've searched the engine control and engine but have been unable to locate the section that shows the procedure to get the knock sensor.

How did you use the camera to view the knock connector? Entry point?

Hog_runner 01-31-2022 08:23 PM

I just did a similar repair myself this weekend on my 05 V8 SE. I too opted to remove the TB rather than drain coolant - huge time saver thanks to OP! For anyone else in the future, I followed the Starter replacement section in the 2003 FSM.

Had a shop replace the starter a few weeks ago, then the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Cheap diagnostic tool threw a P0328 code for Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1). According to FSM that is actually a code specific to the 1-GR V6. The 2UZ will either throw a P0325 or P0330. Anyway, had a hunch and was correct. The wires were torn loose from the 2-pin connector that attaches to the knock sensor. Pretty sure the shop did it when replacing my starter but I can't prove it.

I ran to oreilly's and picked up this pigtail: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...or/odi0/400114 listed as a "2 Terminal Fuel Injection Connector" OReilly's part no 40-0114. The wire with the new connector was a thicker gage than the lead from factory harness to factory KS, so I snipped down the length of the new pigtail before soldering onto the factory harness to hopefully avoid throwing the computer off due to higher resistance from thicker wire.

2008UrbanRunnerATL 10-10-2023 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMZ (Post 2830520)
Very little info on this issue. All was fine last night. When I started my 4R this morning I got the lit up dash. Thought it might be a gas cap so I retightened and went to work. On the way I had sluggish performance and it would not shift to 5th. Got off work and got the code read and came up P0330 knock sensor 2 high value. ECM went max retard on timing and wouldn't go into 5th as a safe measure.

Doing a little research the sensors rarely go bad, but rodents eating the wires is the main culprit. Off to HD I go to get the Milwaukee inspection camera I always wanted and sure enough the wires are cut. I usually garage my 4R but came home late and left it outside, temps dropped lower than usual and I guess they couldn't resist. Im lucky that they didnt chew the wires right off the connector, it should be easy to solder in some new wire. There is no sub harness for the knock sensors and I assume the dealer would want to replace the whole engine harness at $2478 so Ill be tackling this repair myself this weekend.

Pics to follow. Anyone know what specific type of wire it is? Shielded double coil is about the most info I could find.

ETA: Looks like I might have enough wire to just re-solder.

Hi @GMZ. This post is incredibly helpful. May I ask what was your point of entry when you used the endoscope to find the damage?


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