Tackling Door Lock Actuator Motor Replacement
 

After cruising through some posts on replacing the door lock actuator motors, I have decided to do it. One reason, my key fob crapped out and to program the new one, I have to be able to cycle the locks.

Before I throw myself into this, any last words of advice or tips? Is this a 6 pack job or a 12 pack with a bottle of Excedrin? LOL

I just did mine following this thread.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...placement.html

It isn't too bad, just take your time so you don't accidentally break and 20 year old plastic pieces. It took about an hour and a half to replace my front door motor. I did it for the same reason. I couldn't program my new fob. Although since then I've read you can get around this by using the key in the door to lock/unlock it.

Thanks man! Did you see any signs of scorching or "carbon flash" on the old motors you took out? Also, did you add dialectric grease on the connections?

The motor did have some carbon flash blackening around each connection point. I did not think to use dielectric grease but now that you point it out I probably should have.

I did all 4 of mine, took a few hours, fairly easy and straight forward.
I agree about being carful. they plastic is very brittle. We didn't break anything, however, I could see the plastic snapping real easy.

ONE LAST QUESTION: For those of us who have done this "motor swap" did you see an improvement in the way the door locks worked? I am just wondering if these new motors will end up doing the same "heat related" crap the original ones are doing........

The new motor is definitely more powerful. The locking sounds "stronger" for lack of a better word and keeps working even after the others I did not change give up from constant repeated use in a short period of time.

Thanks for all the input. I just have a little anxiety about getting the actuators out and being able to put everything back the way it should be. There seems to be a lot of "little tricks" in doing this job. I got the motors from MOPSMOTORS on Ebay. Just sick and tired of fighting these "heat sensitive" door lock actuators! Total PITA.....

Yes, I did see a major improvement, They actually worked!
I did purchase OEM actuators not aftermarket.

I swapped the motors in the drivers front and the passenger rear lock actuators with Mops parts in Sept of 2013, a little over 40,000 miles ago. It's my daily driver so the locks are activated fairly often.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...1/index74.html

They went from barely working to only jumping but not unlocking with the originals (super flaky and getting worse- heat related) to working perfectly with the MOPS. Surely they will wear out too, but so far so good.

I have a great method for solving both the anxiety, and not putting things together incorrectly. I don't use it that often because I'm so full of S%^&T I often believe I won't make a mistake. Don't worry the universe corrects me often, some day I may learn that lesson. But I digress...

Take pictures of everything before you disassemble, and while you disassemble, and even better if you have someone(or a tripod) take video as things get tricky coming apart. And of course have a clean well lit work area, so you don't lose things. No excedrin necessary, but I refrain from self medicating until finished. 38 years of Auto Body and Auto Repair, countless times I had to take a door panel off because I forgot something made me see the light. I reserve some single malt to celebrate a job well done, or some Pale Ale if my wife is helping(to celebrate).

:cheer2:

Started the replacement of the actuator motors today. I decided to start with the passenger rear door. I managed to get both back doors done late this evening before the sun set. I learned a few things.

1. Take your time. This is not a job you rush.

2. Take the door handle out as it makes it easier to release the rod that opens the door when you pull the exterior handle. (It has a “dimpled rod” on the end and trying to wrestle it off without taking the door handle assembly out is a real PITA!)

3. Make sure to bolt the exterior handle back in BEFORE putting everything else in.

4. Wear gloves as it is a fairly nasty job……the adhesive from the dust cover underneath the door panels is some sticky, stick sh!t.

5. Try and clean up the “road residue” that has accumulated on the door hand internal parts. (I sprayed brake cleaner on everything, let it dry and then sprayed with PTFE dry lube)

6. Re-lube (or grease) the internals before you put it all back together on the rig. (Lubed with dry PTFE/Teflon spray)

7. Make sure you CLAMP down the plastic housing of the motor cover with a clamp and make sure the adhevsive dries before re-installing. (I used JB Weld “SuperWeld – aka “Super glue”)

8. We all hear about “Installation is the reverse of removal” and this requires you pay close attention…..trust me on this one…..

9. Take note of the rear speaker diameter just in case you ever want to upgrade the old cardboard speakers…they are 4.5” in diameter in the back…

I will tackle the fronts tomorrow. The rear locks work LIKE A CHAMP and I can highly recommend the MOPSMOTORS from Ebay!!!!

I finished up the motor change-over today on the 2000 T4R. I have to mention how impressed I am with the little motors from MOPS! They work like a champ and was able to key two new key fobs programmed. The motors are STRONG and everything works better than I ever remember.

The only real "hassle" I had was removing the "L-shaped" metal fitting from the door handle itself. It has one of the plastic "fold-down" hold clips and it was a beast to get the metal fitting out.....other than that.....GLAD I DID THIS!!!

Bumping this thread. I bought a used 2000 Limited T4R two weeks ago that had no fobs, "sticky" door locks, and the power locks faded when attempting to cycle the locks to program new fobs.

Used graphite powder to make the lock function more reliably with the key. Bought some "OEM compatible" fobs on eBay. I was just able to use the key in the lock to cycle the locks and enter programming mode then program the fob. The fob is also able to lower the rear glass.

I do have the MOPS motor actuators to do the locks, but I can wait a bit longer now.

I just worked on mine today, got 3 of the 4 done. To make your life easier, remove both bolts that hold the window track so you can just move it out of the way (front doors). The actuators just slip out and in easier by doing this. Also make sure you glue the 2 pieces together. If you don't you will be taking them back out after a few rounds of clicking the locks. (Ask me how I know)

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