Looked at a high mileage 2008 v8 sport today
 

It has about 220k but very clean and presumably highway miles since it's only a 2008.

• It seemed to drive fine.
• There was a sensor unplugged lower down on the driver side front part of the engine. Plugged it back in and the CEL came on. Any idea which sensor this could be?
• "VSC off" light was flashing and the button wouldn't turn it back on.
• The 4LO selector of course didn't work. It just flashed. Tried it a bunch of times.
• Coolant reservoir was empty and I could see a bunch of smoke or condensation in the rear mirror when I started driving. It was fine when it was idling before and it is really cold. I didn't think head gaskets were a common problem on the 2UZFE?
• There was some oil residue on the top of the engine on the driver side. It seemed higher up than the valve cover but I'm not the least bit familiar with this engine, I'm used to the 3rd gen. Could it be spraying out of the PCV or something? It was at the bottom of the plastic cover.

It has service history from day 1 at the dealer.

• Oil change every 5k on the dot.
• 50k exhaust manifold replaced.
• 90k timing belt.
• 100k transmission drain and fill.
• 105k power steering flush.
• 130k radiator replaced.
• 135k Front wheel bearings on both sides.
• 150k Serpentine belt and CV axles replaced.
• 170k power steering flush, transmission flush.
• 175k Belt tensioner, v-belt
• 180k new alternator
• 185k timing belt
• 200k rear axle seal, another new alternator, battery, serpentine belt, fuel cap
• 205k AC recharge

Thoughts?

Sensor is probably the O2/fuel-air sensor on the exhaust manifold. Any emissions related trouble code causes the VSC off light to illuminate.
If the sensor is seized in the manifold it is a real pain in the butt to replace.

Head gaskets are not a common problem. What is he asking?

- Read or have the codes read for the CEL so you can make a more informed decision

- Coolant reservoir being empty is odd especially with the good service history, that would also be a concern of mine

I agree with checking the codes. In fact, I no longer look seriously at used cars without bringing my scanner along to check for pending, and stored codes. Sounds like this has been pretty well maintained, and honestly most people aren’t fortunate enough to have that detailed of a history when buying a used car, so that’s a real plus, especially with such high mileage. If serious about buying, spend the money to have it thoroughly checked out, including a compression and leakdown test so you know the condition of the engine at least. It is money well spent when considering the alternative of buying something that may need a rebuild in the near future...

Sounds like a good service history record, but some of the things on that truck are a couple red flags. Why would he unplug the O2 sensor, bad cat or bad o2 sensor? the former is cheap the latter could be costly if you are in an emissions state. 4LO selector not working, could be expensive actuator fix. i would maybe take a look at a different vehicle

I'd pass, too many red flags for sure.

How much is the seller asking? Could be worth it if the price is right...Seems like they have spent good money thus far on maintenance.

Rust?

Price at this point is really important for us to know if asking for advice! As you mentioned, if the price is factoring in the deficiencies (or can be negotiated based on them), then it may be a good buy since it has been maintained well.

This would be the biggest factor for me. OP, check the frame over very carefully for holes, or soft areas. Everything else is manageable if the price is right. Unless you plan to off-road a lot, then the 4lo likely isn’t an issue anyway. I’d still try to free it using some of the techniques in past threads just because I like everything to work correctly, but honestly I have never used it other than monthly testing for functionality.

Don’t know how much you’re paying, but a co-worker of mine bought an ‘04 V8 Limited with 250kish miles, last year. It has a few issues, and cosmetically isn’t something I’d want, but he negotiated it to $1,500.00 cash from a Craigslist ad! He drives it everyday for work, and other than rear brakes, and a front wheel bearing, it’s been rock solid dependable. Considering I paid almost 5 times as much, it really has me kicking myself for not buying that one at least for a work beater, even if I had a nicer one like mine for regular duty!

I had it looked over by a independent Toyota place (Toyo Techs in Omaha are awesome for anyone in the area BTW). They got 4LO working, but it has cracked exhaust manifolds, a very slight coolant leak, and throwing codes for system too lean so some kind of fuel pressure problem. And a torn CV boot and other couple minor things.

It's a dealer selling it and they wanted 8900 + $400 doc fee and didn't want to budge much so I passed on it when I started thinking about what kind of 3rd gen build I could do if I got another 3rd gen instead.

$8900 and cracked headers would be the biggest expense in obvious repairs. It had a bit of rust but normal for around here, nothing serious.

The thing that was unplugged was for the AC compressor. Don't know why it was unplugged and I forgot to test the AC. 4LO started working after rocking it a bit.

Check for signs the radiator is leaking, might have to get under the front with a flashlight. I agree with the other comment the reservoir should not be empty with regular 5k oil changes where they are checking/filling it.

Also, just my opinion but that seems like a pretty steep price for that mileage and all the potential issues. I'd keep looking.

I am in the same boat, found a 2006 sport w/170K, out of town
and ran a carfax on it, looks like a fender bender on the rear end
with no follow up on the carfax info, other than that looks good
so sending it to a dealer for a once over and if report checks out
then should be a done deal other than a test drive on my end and
some paperwork....A bit of a PITA with distance but nothing locally
with the condition I want.