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Diff repair options?
New to the forum and already in a bind!
I bought a 2000 Limited 4x4 a few days ago, cheap. (I know!!!!) Everything works, even the A/C and power antenna👍🏻 Drives great! Today I noticed a leak from the rear end. Found out it has a crack in the rear differential. Guy at the shop said take a wire brush and JB weld it for now. Ok?!?! But for a permanent fix, what’s a option without costing more than I paid for it? If I find one in a junkyard how can I tell if it matches my gear ratio? TIA! |
Never heard of a cracked rear diff on these trucks. Got a picture?
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I've seen a few people on here who managed to grenade their rear diff. But you're right it's pretty rare.
JB weld will at least keep the fluid from leaking out and potentially warping the axle housing. For a more permanent solution, look up your axle code on your door jam sticker. Chances are it's an A03A, 4.10 gears. You can remove the entire 3rd member by disconnecting the rear driveshaft, pulling both rear axles out (not at hard as it seems) and then taking the 10 or so bolts out holding the entire 3rd member to the axle housing. You should then be able to count the teeth on the gears to verify and then pick one up from a junk yard for about $100. |
More info needed. I’ve never heard of a cracked rear diff either. Rusted and leaking rear axle housing, yes. Or leaking at the seal between diff and housing. In fact I just finished replacing mine Due to a rusted housing. What’s cracked exactly? Diff, housing? And yes, if your not in a salt belt area, find your replacement parts in a local junkyard and swap in yourself. If your in the rust belt, try this forum or EBay for rust free parts. As for the gear ratio, search this forum for ‘spin test’ to determine your ratio. If the diff is out, count teeth and divide number of teeth on the ring gear by number of teeth on the pinion hear. 43/10, 41/10, etc.
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I’ve tried 3 times to upload a pic but it says upload error! So I guess that means my rear diff isn’t leaking on my driveway? Or the guy at the shop that had it on the lift and pointing to the crack leaking fluid are incompetent?
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Are you sure it's not the housing that's cracked? The diff wall thickness is pretty beefy. The rear of the housing, not so much.
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Really? We all took our time to give you good advice, and ask for more info and pics to make sure we put you on the right track. Good luck
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That's the axle housing. That's not a cover. It's the back of the housing. Just get a used one from a junkyard and swap it out. JB weld will hold for a long time though. You could also use Quik Steel. Drain the fluids. Spray some brake cleaner on the crack. Then fill it and let it set. It'll hold plenty long enough for you to find a cheap junkyard housing. |
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Personally, I think I'd go the JB weld route before a complete rear end replacement. The diff fluid isn't under too much heat and no pressure so just got to stop the leak. |
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You have a bunch of options. You can get a whole used rear axle assembly, you just need to know your gear ratio. (door sticker or call dealer with VIN) You could buy a brand new or a used axle housing and just swap your third member and axles into it. A new housing from Toyota is about $1500. You can drain it, wire brush it and clean it really well then 2 part epoxy it. I believe the the best option is to cut the old cover off and weld on a new one. Dorman makes one as does Barnes 4X4. Any competent shop should be able to do this in about three hours.
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A local junkyard has a rear diff with the factory locker for $100 but it’s out of a ‘97. What are the chances it’s the same gear ratio?
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