Roof Rack Reasoning + Post Your Pics
 

OK folks!

In the past, I've fabricated, ran, and sold 2 different roof racks. Back then, my materials cost was around $150 MAX for solid metal, welded, and tailored greatness. Now that I don't have access to fab tools or metals, I am looking to purchase a pre-built roof rack, but before I drop ludicrous amounts of money on a rack... what are some concrete reasons why you have them on your 4R?

Some of my ideas:
1. Hi-Lift Jack mounting position. Great, but I can also mount it by my spare.
2. MaxxTraxx mounting spot. I would actually mount them up there, there would be no room by my spare, and I am somewhat against mounting them ON my spare tire.
3. Jerry Can/RotoPax mounting position. If I get a Jerry Can, I will mount it by my spare, opposite the Hi Lift. If I get rotopax, I would mount them on the rack.
4. Gear bags/Recovery kit- I currently stow it under my sleeping platform, if I can find a lockable storage option, I would throw it up on a rack.
5. Solar panel, primary and secondary battery charging
6. LITE BARZ- on my other racks, I had cubes at all 4 corners, made for great camping lights
7. Camping gear- with a mattress and clothes on my sleeping platform, it would be nice to keep gear, food, and drinks up on the rack... but I can only camp a few weeks out of the year now being a student and full time employee.


What all do you guys keep up there? My main thing is that if I get a roof rack, I don't want it just for looks- I want to utilize it.

All input and opinions are welcomed. I'd also love to see pics of what you run!!!

-Seth

Hey Seth,
I might not have all the info you want as I haven't acquired all the toys yet. But I went with a Prinsu Rack. Initially I wanted the GOBI as I liked the look the best but the Prinsu grew on me. Then I found a used one for sale locally and that sealed the deal.
I will be running a RTT on it so it might be a little different then yours but I am planning on:
Extreme LED bar on the front.
Two Rigid Scene lights (one on either side as camp lights.)
Maxtraxx or Pelican style case up front on the rack.
ARB 2500 Awning mounted driver side.
Treeline RTT Mounted at the rear with foldout over passenger side.
Maybe a yellow LED mounted at the rear for a trail light.

Going to be getting a custom rear bumper fabbed up that will hold tire, hi lift and fuel.

another perspective...
 

I love the looks of all these roof racks on our t4r's, but the idea of putting all that weight and gear up above for any amount of time irks me. Taking the hit on MPG's and handling. I''ll probably end up getting one at some point though because they're awesome and I like the mounting ideas for flood lights, but I'd prefer to use a yakima/thule system that I can remove, I can also get wider bars to put two canoes up there. Up until this point I haven't found a need to store gear up on the roof. Might be a differing opinion, but thought I'd throw it out there.

the weight is a great point. Last time I went to Moab, my full length rack held 2 cases of water, stove, a Yeti full of food, and tools. She was a total brick and liability on the highway drive there and at angles.

I am a sucker for the looks of a rack on our Runners though, maybe I'll get one to look cool and carry groceries in the summer haha

I typically travel with 2 dogs, one being a 120lb rottie so I put a lot of gear on my roof rack to leave space in the truck. Also, I don't have rear bumper so I store my spare tire and all my camping gear on my rack plus the mounts for my awning. I bought a Gamiviti rack and have been super happy. Here's a couple of picks I dug up.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0adfd9d61.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf525e5023.jpg




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My personal needs are probably different than most here, but I’ve been looking into the options for carrying ladders, and occasionally lumber for my job. Most of the time if it’s only a few boards, I put 8’ boards inside the truck along the passenger side between the front seat and door so I can close the tailgate/back window. The stock bars suck because they are curved, not too strong, and really don’t have anywhere to attach straps well. The option I’m considering is instead of a full rack, just buying the upgraded bars mentioned in another thread (can’t remember right now who makes them). Supposedly they are strong enough for what I need, or even RTT use, and much cheaper than a full rack, plus they can easily be drilled to add eye bolts, or other tie down points. The downside is the loss of aero that the factory ones provide, since the replacement ones are square stock, and flat. Since I don’t do a ton of long distance travel, the hit would be worthwhile I believe.

LFD makes them :cheers:

LFD Offroad makes the upgraded crossbars. I've thought about that too. I have yakima bars for my 3rd gen and I've carried sheet goods up there with some straps. Like the idea of the full length for support for trim/sheets, but it's been working for me so far.

i have previously had a vw gti lowered with oem bars and thule snowboard cargo box, as well as yakima q tower setup on lowered wrx with surfboard pads and a fork mount bike carrier.

given my v6, lifted 5100/ome lift on pizza cutters, rock sliders, spare carrier and fullsize spare, 54" hilift...she is now getting only 17mpg ish down from like 19 or 20... i am very cautious based on my previous experience of hauling stuff daily on a roof rack. they can easily drop your mpg another few miles, id guess even towards 3 with cases, tires, etc. up there all the time.

i have had my shortboard surfboard up there strapped down on stock bars but am going to do my best to not get an aftermarket setup or carry sh*t up there unnecessarily. i might just get those surfboard pads again and rock those...because i dont want my waxed board melting in the cab and leaving sticky bumps (surfers know) everywhere, as good as it smells.

If I'm camping I usually have all my gear on the rack so that I can sleep inside the truck. Coolers, dryboxes etc. But it's main use lately is for my paddle board. It would be a PITA to strap down an 11' board to the factory rack. It has a 40" light bar that comes in handy on back roads at night also. But during the normal work week its empty and even then the rack alone brings down my mpg. I'll never understand the people that daily drive with 300lbs of gear on their roof at all times. Shovels, maxtraxx, rtt, gas cans, spare tires etc. If I was using it to carry that much stuff I would definitely put something together to take it all off easily. But I have a feeling most of the trucks I see like this are keeping all this stuff on there to look cool, so to each his own I guess.

I'll just chime in with my .02 cents worth so take it for what it's worth!

I love the looks and practicality of roof racks but opted the route of a Packasport roof box instead. I did this primarily due to keeping things quiet, secure, water proof and of course vandal proof. The additional noise is minimal vs a typical open roof rack design.

However, when I travel w/o the camping trailer, this makes fitting inside the 4runner an exercise in Tetris:becky: So, this summer's project is to build a rear bumper for two swing outs that will be removable easily.

One swing out will have two jerry cans of fuel and one can of non potable water. I already have a permanent location for a jerry can of potable water over the passenger rear wheel well. The second swing out will have a bike rack provision. Both water jerry cans have spigots for ease of use. Both fuel cans will remain in their baskets and I'll use a jiggle hose to transfer fuel.

My tires are stock size and the spare will continue to live under the rear cargo area. When I'm not wheeling, both swingouts will be removed and stored in the side yard. I can't stand swing outs but they're necessary evil.

I'm a big fan of light sources in the rear of my vehicles. The plan is to install a flood lamp on the underside of the rear wind spoiler to light up the area behind the 4rnr. Two cube light things will prolly be flush mounted on the rear bumper when the time comes. All three lights will come on during backing up and only the top flood light will be activated with a dash mounted switch.

Currently I'm running two yakima load bars connected to the factory side rails. These two support an awning and the Packasport. I often travel with my 13yo daughter and a dog or two. The fridge usually take up one of the second row spot where the seat is removed.

Last bit of info and that is the damaging effects from UV. Anything composite that sits on any roof racks will be damaged by the powerful UV rays. I can't help but wonder how those Maxtracks or plastic RotoPax cans losing lifespan over time.

Sorry for the long drivel, take the info you need and discard the rest!! :keyboard:

I have a Baja Rack basket on mine. I don't think the rack itself does much to my mileage.

I got the rack to carry my awning and to carry stuff that's going to get dirty or wet that I don't want to carry inside my 4Runner. For me, that includes, shovel, Maxatrax, Hi-Lift, and Firewood. If anything gets dirty, muddy, or smelly I can throw it up there too. When I camp, I throw my boxes up there at night so I have more room inside the 4Runner for sleeping. I also plan to add some rear dust lights in the next week or two.

Obviously, the only thing that lives full-time on the rack is the awning.

This picture is from when I had the Rola rack on low mounts, but everything is the same on the Baja Rack:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8398/Dco3lW.jpg

It Looks Cool!

:tea:

there is no doubt from my experience and what i have researched that adding a roof basket to your vehicle robs some mpg even when empty. not to do with weight but just streamlining/wind resistance. running cross bars and a fairing on a car, without anything strapped down, will drop the mpg even. looks like most people do use them, but if you seldom do and care about fuel efficiency, those are main culprits for losing a few mpg. side view mirrors contribute a lot to wind resistance too obviously...would be cool if there were some oem mini side views available for those who care about that sort of thing - i wouldnt take it that far personally.

For me, I noticed the biggest drops when I lifted mine 2" and then when I went to E load tires. Each of those took about 2-3 mpg.