starter kill switch
I do a lot of fishing out of a boat and sometimes I launch my boat in not so crime free areas. over the years some have had their trailers lock cut off and the trailer stolen right off the hitch ball ( I stop that by backing into the slot, up into a fence or a building). but some have also came back in from a day of fishing only to find their truck and trailer gone.. I personally have never had a single issue, maybe because I drove an envoy or trail blazer :eyebrows: now that I've got the 4Runner I'm a little concerned. id like to put a locking battery kill switch under the hood, but my problem is, is it ok to keep shutting the power off to the computer? I was thinking that if I put the switch between the battery and the starter it would be better and I could probably even hide it better.
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That'd need to be a hell of a switch. Fuel kill switches are more common, you could probably also tap into the wire between your ignition without needing a full on circuit breaker to handle the amps. Would be much easier to just pull your starter relay.
Don't drop it in the lake. |
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Box under the hood, it's marked
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Get a sprint booster, disable lock it.
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Have you ever tried a sprint booster? It’s not a gimmick. Have you driven a modern vehicle with drive by wire that had different drive modes such as eco, comfort, sport and sport plus? It changes throttle response and, in turn, transmission response. Sprint booster mimics those factory settings and provides better throttle response. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Toyota has been doing different "modes" for 30+ years, cable and DBW applications, so modern or not, vehicle age is irrelevant. It also doesn't matter if the vehicle is DBW because in an actual performance enhancing OEM driving mode, the manufacturer isn't just turning the accelerator into an on/off button, they're changing shift points and patterns, injector pulse width, ignition timing, etc. On my 21 yo GS400, the "mode" button is called the "electronically controlled transmission pattern select switch". When engaged it hold gears longer eliminating jerky grabs that wear your clutches, if you let off and then re-accelerate. The Sprint Booster has the opposite effect, the car shifts like it always does and then when you give it a little gas your car reads it as you flooring it so slams into a lower gear, toasting that clutch. In a well-designed OEM system sport mode acceleration vs normal mode acceleration feels completely different in the actual drivetrain, it's not at all like I'm just stomping the pedal a little quicker. This is a sales pitch from SB's own site, from a vendor looking for those sweet marketing $$$ - "We were spinning the tires now without meaning to! And the transmission would downshift much sooner when we leaned into the throttle, adding to the overall improved responsiveness." - https://www.sprintboostersales.com/J...ter-Review.cfm ^That's a good thing? When I don't want to spin the tires...I don't want to spin the tires! I also hate when my tranny downshifts constantly, in fact if there was one mod I could do to my GX it'd be a trans pressure gauge that tells how close you are to shift points so I could back off to maintain a gear rather than have the repeated upshifts and downshifts. SB is a gimmick. It's a ghetto-fab knockoff of an OEM system at a premium price, for people who should really just learn to use the throttle they have. |
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Lol...so what you’re saying is that you haven’t used a sprint booster and that you have no experience to base your assumptions on. I know perfectly well what I’m talking about and I fully understand drive by wire systems. You can not duplicate what the sprint booster or pedal commander does by simply flooring the vehicle. It does not just increase throttle input but also increases throttle response, thereby eliminating the lag that has been programmed in. It creates a much more drivable and responsive driving experience. Try one first before you give a review. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Flooring pedal = max voltage (assuming electrical resistance is set up that way) Sprint booster + half pedal = max voltage Sprint booster+ flooring = still max voltage This is basic, basic stuff. Not even controversial. What's your sticking point? Did you buy one without realizing that it's just increasing voltage based on a set ratio? What correlation are you failing to comprehend between the voltage output when you press the pedal and the increased voltage put out by SB, which essentially decreases your effective pedal range, AKA "floors" your pedal sooner?? Quote:
Then we'll talk. |
When I had my remote start unit installed (Viper) my shop indicated that they had models as well which included an immobilizer option so if the vehicle was locked with the Viper remote you would have what you're looking for. I just opted for the basic unit to start the damn thing and not have that factory kill when I opened the door.
I don't want to derail the thread toward these Sprint B products because there are plenty of those already but I have driven my friends 5th gen who has one and what I do feel in difference from mine is the lack of throttle delay I guess for 'lack' of a better description? I do primarily city driving and have to be quick on and off the gas where that type of throttle response gets annoying sometimes. He doesn't use the Red race settings or whatever, that causes driveability characteristics exactly as described by the previous post but on it's basic Green setting at 5-7 or whatever he keeps it at, totally cleans up the pedal delay and driveability is improved, at least I noticed that aspect, feels as normal otherwise ( doesn't cause early downshifts or red line shifts from half throttle ). I think thats the best you can hope for from that product, cleaning up the delay you feel sometimes quickly getting on / off / on the pedal. If it were half the price it is I would buy it just for that I think. I guess the Valet mode option is worth something too if you remember to use it. Complete throttle lock out option I guess is what the OP would use? But thats pushing the buttons on the thing, hiding the remote unit someplace. I'd rather use the Viper product for simplicity and remote start capability. Thats my 2 cents for today :beer: |
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Check out the ‘Truck U’ episode on YouTube where they test the sprint booster in a JK Wrangler. The acceleration test out to 55 feet displays how the sprint booster not only increases throttle input but also throttle response, thereby eliminating throttle lag and improving off the line acceleration. The sprint booster does not increase power but it does improve throttle input and response. You can not duplicate what the sprint booster does simply by mashing the pedal because you cannot manually remove the throttle lag programmed into the 4runner. This is proven in the episode I mentioned above. Your review of the sprint booster is as valid as someone who writes a review on a new restaurant without having ever actually eaten there. Worthless. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Are the keys for the Gen 5 4runners chipped?
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So I guess the OP may be worried about that which is why the immobilizer option on the Viper product may be the best idea (although that means one jacket pocket for that remote and another pocket for the oem one / key set.) Or not... Generally thieves are in a hurry and may not understand it has to be unlocked with the one remote to enable the starter circuit.) :redbrick: |
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Please, do explain how it "eliminates throttle lag"...."that has been programmed in". Specifically, in electronics terminology. I've explained how it actually works, by a simple ratio based voltage amplification. But how do you propose that your little gimmick is bypassing this "programmed in throttle lag"? Skip the marketing word salad this time please, you made me hungry enough the first time. Quote:
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Choice-supportive bias is real, folks. |
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I guess it doesn't work. You must be right. You must be a hoot at parties. It's tough always being the smartest guy in the room. Maybe you could write a review of the yet to be released 6th gen. You haven't seen or driven one, but that shouldn't stop you. Your entire maniacal rant is meritless as you've never tested the product. |
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But I missed what part of that was the explanation of the circuitry required to bypass your "programmed in throttle lag". You know, about how it's so much different than flooring the pedal? It's actually pretty nice being the most knowledgeable guy in the room. Case in point - I'd much rather be on the giving end than the receiving end of this reaming. Doesn't always happen, and in fact it doesn't even usually come up, but see - thing is, when someone else knows more about a topic than I do, I acknowledge it -and avoid the reaming. But anyway, enjoy that Sprint Booster, you've earned it. And the tranny replacements...and tire replacements...and stifled smiles at meets from guys who actually know engines and circuitry. Now where did I put that kazoo... |
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Try some clozapine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I have what I thought was an original stock theft prevention feature. Before starting the car one must turn the lights on - or at least flash the brights. I purchased the car used. Is this an OEM feature or something that was added after?
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Came hear for some answers regarding a fuel kill switch and ended up with two teenagers arguing. Does anyone know the color of the fuel pump wire on a 5th gen 4runner? The past colors have been blue with an orange stripe. Is the 5th gen 4Runner the same color? Thank you...
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On my motorcycle the throttle required 3/4 turn to full throttle, I replaced the throttle tube with a 1/2turn to full throttle. Works soo much better but all I did was change the throttle curve to a steeper curve. Anyways, back to the original question. Just pull the starter relay and hide it somewhere in the truck. Just as effective as a switch and it’s free lol. |
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