Switchback DRL’s
 

Hey y’all.

I have updated my light housings and all the bulbs to LED’s. Except my 1156 blinker/DRLs up front.

I’m really wanting a white/amber switchback, but have some concerns that I’m not understanding what’s needed due to what appears to be so many variants in bulbs and wiring?

I have a 2008 V6 4wd Limited.

Factory DRL with the dual use of an 1156 bulb.

Anyone have an idea of what will work that’s not a $200 set of bulbs and/or hacking into all my wiring?

Thanks,


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You beat me to it. :-)

Sorry for the revival.

Anyone think something like this would work? (Link below)
The 4th Gen 4Runner with DRL/blinker is a little different in its operation but there has been a lot of info about tapping into the side marker to get a always on for the DRL.

YouTube

Thing I’m most interested in from the video is building a small harness to tap into the side marker and also change the bulb socket of the DRL to use a 1157 switchback. Please watch video for further info.

@dsanford I bought these a year ago and have had zero problems, they work fine and are bright enough. I also did the DRL disconnect mod and ran the wire for white light through a switch to turn them off if I want, but they come on with ignition for now.

iJDMTOY (2) 42-SMD High Power 1156 7506 7527 Single Filament Switchback LED Bulbshttps://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1000_.jpg

Thanks for the recommendation. I did look at these while on my search. The only question I had about these are regarding the “additional wire” and what iJDMTOY calls “equalizer” (resistor). These are not shown in any of the product photos.

I know you mentioned you installed them, where did you put the resistor? Did you wire the “additional wire” to the DRL disconnect you’re mentioning? Wondering what they look like installed, I’m trying to avoid a rats nest and looking for pretty much PnP, even if that means making my own small harness. I don’t want to sound lazy, just want a clean install and easily reversed if needed. Thanks again for your recommendations do reply.

Let me see if I can get a few pictures of the install and or how it looks on the truck. I ran the DRL wire for the LEDs to my Fog Light fix under the fuse panel, as all I wanted it for was on when my truck is on. the Resistor is typical heat sink style resistor I mounted under the headlight housing, doubtful I will be bale to get a picture of that one.

@KrazedJD , I get what you mean about the resistor and I understand what you’re talking about with attaching the additional wire to the disconnect. Mainly I wanted to confirm what the product was like before ordering. I would appreciate photos but if it’s a hassle to get photos don’t worry about it, if you can just open then hood and snap some then I’ll take a look.

The additional wire is for the white LEDs; people usually wire it to a positive that's on with the vehicle running as DRLs, or the parking light +. Since the front signals are single filament the usual plug-and-play switchback will not work. The external load resistors are for the amber (turn signal) circuit.

I got side tracked by work and my daughter asking to go out and enjoy rest of day with a bike ride, also with distraction I realized I never took picture of the DRL White/Amber switchback in action. Additionally, I did use this same bulb type to add Rear Fogs where Blinkers are, so its amber blinker / Red fog when I use my Toyota rear fog light switch I modified.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/membe...700130-ios.jpg

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/membe...ure58098-a.jpg

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/membe...ure58099-a.jpg

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/membe...ure52882-a.jpg

@KrazedJD Thank you for the pictures. My daughter keeps me busy too, even more so now with everything shut down to any group gathering. I really like the idea of the rear fogs you mentioned. I like your setup in the center console. Might have to look into that once I get some other things done on this 4Runner.

@Ed_C thanks for you input. After much research, I’ve learned that the 1156 in the DRL/Blinker is a single filament bulb and adding the 1156 KrazedJD mentioned then acts a dual filament bulb, just requires wiring the resistor and power for the white/DRL portion of the light. If you reference the video I posted above, I really wonder what would stop this from being possible. Only thing I can think of is, if you power a 1157 socket from the parking light (DRL/Blinker shuts off once headlights come on, side marker remains illuminated) that the Amber or blinker feature of a switchback would not work because the DRL is getting constant power instead of being interrupted. Same would be true for the iJDMTOY that KrazedJD is mentioning. The interrupting feature must be in the bulb.

I’m not 100% set on creating a harness and switching to a 1157 socket for 1157 switchback but it would be nice to have a PnP alternative to tapping or splicing anything. I’ve only had this vehicle for 3 months, I know it’s not a gem but I’m not entirely comfortable doing that just yet. Also I have not had good luck with with a tap standing the test of time. Maybe I’m just doing it wrong, that is entirely possible and never out of the realm of possibility.

Isn't that what I said? I've used the same design bulbs before (rubber bulb base, male connection for a single filament socket with resistors wired inline, additional wire to activate the white LEDs) but in a 7440

I'm not sure what exactly you want to do :noidea:

If you want the white LEDs to work exactly like the OEM DRLs, where they're on whenever the vehicle is running and the parking or headlights are off, it's possible and it's been done without using the VLEDS bulbs J.A. used. In fact you don't even need the "control box" with the latest version of those Triton bulbs.

I appreciate your knowledge of the matter @Ed_C but if me reiterating what you said for confirmation bothers you, maybe you need to just not reply. I’m not asking, telling me what I should do. I’m simply asking “hey I have an idea, and here’s what I want to accomplish and how I think I can accomplish it. Is this correct? Is this possible?” I don’t need someone shouting from across the room about how it is and how I should do it. If you want to offer a suggestion, by all means. Or maybe answer my question I originally stated instead of trying to “enlighten” me and say it’s been done this way, do it this way. :whipping2

aaaand another a-hole added to my ignore list ;)

Hopefully one you guys have an answer to whatever the hell he wants, I probably do have a solution :biggrin1:

The 2007 Toyota 4Runners came with two different types of front turn signal bulbs: It either uses an 1156 bulb, or it uses a 3157Ck bulb. You will want to check to see if your stock bulb has the steel round base of the 1156 bulb, or if it has the plastic base of the 3157Ck bulb.

You can find either of these kits here:

1156:
V6 TRITON 5K / 6K WHITE AMBER SWITCHBACK 1156
You will want to select the Hyperflash Fix
You will want to select the HDRL Control Boxes
If you want the white LEDs to DIM when the headlights are on you will want to select the H11 DIM Wire Adapters.
You will want to select the Polarity Adapter Wires.

3157CK:
V6 TRITON 5K / 6K WHITE AMBER SWITCHBACK 3157
You will want to select the Hyperflash Fix
You will want to select the HDRL Control Boxes
If you want the white LEDs to DIM when the headlights are on you will want to select the H11 DIM Wire Adapters.