(FIXED 7.3.19) Zero Point Calibration Not Working- Steering Light On
 

Update* 7.3.19
Took it to Toyota Saturday 6.29.19 and the diagnosis was needing a new spiral cable and steering angle sensor along with alignment. Dropped it off yesterday morning 7.2.19 and got it back an hour ago.
The dealer experience was very pleasant, thanks Fred Haas. Sucks installing new parts got me into this but it is what it is. It's fixed and I'm happy.
Thanks for the help everyone!


Original* 6.12.19
Previously this weekend I had performed the Zero Point Calibration just fine, twice, in fact.

On Monday, when I was backing down my driveway, wheels turned to the right, and the traction light came on solid again and the multi terrain started blinking at me again. I figured no big deal I'll do the calibration again.
However this time a steering light came on with it. Not sure what that meant. I looked it up and toyota.com says it's a power steering warning light

Keep in mind, my alignment was still off due to installing lower control arms and my steering wheel was point about 90 degrees to the left, but I was able to perform the calibration twice this past weekend successfully before this steering light popped up. No ABS light was solid on and I've torn that before and replaced with OEM, so I know that's not the issue.

https://i.imgur.com/nzIlDkFh.jpg

I left it alone though because I was going to get an alignment on Wednesday, which is today.

Today, got my alignment today and it's perfect.
Got home tried to do the calibration but it's failed this time, dozens and dozens of times. The alignment shop did nothing wrong, not blaming them. Lights were on two days before I went in.

Anyway, it will enter test mode for the zero point calibration, but the traction light won't blink rapidly like it says it's supposed t after I turn it back on.

All this just stays solid
https://i.imgur.com/cPsu7kth.jpg

"(7) Check that the slip indicator light comes on for several seconds and then blink in the test mode pattern (0.125 seconds on and 0.125 seconds off).

HINT:

* If the slip indicator light does not blink, perform zero point calibration again."

The above is what's not working for me. I've repeated it dozens of times.

Other than those issues, drives fine and handles fine. No codes were popping up.
Any thoughts? That steering light problem is definitely preventing me from completing the calibration.

Hi MyanRagahis,

I had the very same trouble "Twice"; once when I first bought the truck, and just a month and a 1/2 ago... all fixed now!

After doing the YAW Rate acceleration cali and the Center point Steering Calibration, It's necessary (at times) to clear the DTC's stored in the ecu's history logs and temporary files.

If you don't, you may encounter further system anomalies as I did e.g., loss of Speed-o-meter, Tach-o-meter, key fob failure (or certification ecu), ABS light on, and worst of all, a TOTAL Charging system failure; the CAN-bus shut the 270-XP alternator down... that one cost me $85 bucks for a tow 1.5 miles from my house; ouch!

And I was paying for "Safety Connect" but they will only tow you to a Toyota Dealership! My truck is out of warranty, so I have NO USE for Toyota; especially because they didn't know to test my truck when it was brand new for a YAW Rate/Center point cali! So delete all of those DTC's out, "BEFORE" doing the calibrations again!

Here's the Instructions, just in case anyone else needs it... and you DON'T need a scan-gauge to do it:

Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration

And here's a thread that may also be helpful:

Instrument Cluster warning Icons all lit-up!

'Best to you',

rig

Second post today I've seen from you that is just packed with technical info. I hope you are getting paid enough.

Thanks for your help and response! I was going through your thread.

"Pulling the short-pin will disable almost everything that you're used to working without thought, including the alarm system and the courtesy lighting system! This can also be used to do a 'MASTER RESET' when anyone of those systems listed on the power distribution diagram above is having issues."

To reset the "DTC" I'm assuming I'll have to pull this short pin you're talking about.
Do I have to turn the key to on or can I just remove it for a few minutes while the vehicle is off?

Edit: I just got home from work and going to disconnect the positive terminal overnight and see where that gets me in the morning as well.

Just wanted to make a quick video of how the Zero Point Calibration isn't working for me.

Unplugged the positive terminal overnight and plugged it back in this morning, still there.

My Zero Point Calibration Issue Video

Decided to follow rigtec's thread and pull the short pin fuse and the ECU fuse until I leave for work at 3 today.

...You're counting my posts??? I've been here helping ppl with "Unusual troubles" since 2012! If you have a problem with that, "Summon a MODERATOR"! Who are you?

rig

https://media.tenor.com/images/dbc04...0340/tenor.gif

...it was a compliment.

That's how I saw it as well.

Hi MyanRagahis,

I mentioned pulling the "Short-pin" "TO-RESET" the Main body ECU Compu Network just in case your problem isn't as sever as mine was; after all, I lost my Speed-o-meter and the Tach-o-meter, as well as the instrument cluster, the Instrument panel, and EVERY (False) warning light was staying on!

This before the trouble spread through the CAN-bus network, and caused the alternator to shut down. It didn't cause any damage to anything, but the inconvenience was horrific to say the least! I realize that you can't drive the vehicle with the short-pin pulled, but don't know how many of these trucks have needed a simple ECU Master RESET!

I have the Tech-Stream cable cable set-up, but when the OBD-ll stops communicating the cable won't do you any good; which I've had happen as well! but there are ways to clear the DTC's without the Tech-stream cable tool; see below:

YouTube There are a TON of these you-tube vids that will show you the proper way of clearing DTC's w/o a scan tool! Just take note: The DLC3 is shaped like a this \__/ with the top part closed. Mine is up-side down like this: /___\ so my number 16 is in the upper left-hand corner and the #1 is at lower right-hand side.

It can be confusing if you're watching you-tube and there's is the opposite than yours; so be careful! Post again if you need any help; there's NOTHING that you will encounter that I haven't either been through or seen, lol!'Best to you',

rig, cheers!

NOW I KNOW JUST WHY SO MANY REALLY GOOD TECH'S LEFT...

...Just another "Instagram" Keyboard Cowboy, using sarcastic "Double talk" to criticize the work of others, and hindering the assistance that some of our more sincere members may actually need!

Instead of being a by-stander (sitting there counting other people's posts), why not go out and help somebody else who may need the help...ON FORUM!

rigtec, cheers

Jesus H Christ man fine have it your way. I'm not going to waste my time explaining how compliments work.

Thorazine and years of therapy. Good luck with those social skills. :thumb:

Hi MyanRagahis,

I just watched your you-tube video. Then I went over the instructions again, for my own clear understanding. It says: You can do the center point calibration once. If the center point calibration fails for any reason, it CAN NOT be performed again until the DTC codes have been cleared!

Also, I saw you do the Zero point calibration, but the YAW Rate calibration MUST be done After the vehicle is turned off, steering wheel is checked to be straight; assuming the truck is level with-in 1%, and shift lever is in PARK. The SST (wire) is inserted into the DLC3 Term# 4 and Term# 12...(Before the key is turned on).

Then the key is turned on and the ABS & SLIP light will come on, then start to blink in test mode (0.125 on and 0.125 off). Turn the vehicle off and remove the SST. Now start the vehicle and drive the truck straight ahead at 25 mph for (no less than 10 seconds! That's it. I think your only trouble is that you did not (not in the video) Clear all the stored DTCs from the data bank. Once you do that you should be okay!

Let me know!

rig

Since the OP mentioned his steering wheel was not straight after the alignment, could this be the issue? Do the front wheels and steering wheel both have to be straight?

rigtec is sounds like he has a couple of screws loose. :der:

Sorry to the OP for adding to the derail, but...

WOW... is T4R experiencing a Prozac shortage?!?!

Pretty obvious that Mutant138 was trying to compliment Rigtec on being knowledgeable and helpful. Rigtec misunderstood the tone and went overboard with his reply. Mutant138 attempted to explain it was a compliment and Rigtec still didn't get it and kept looking to be insulted.

How is what Mutant said insulting? I don't get where the insult is in this statement. "Second post today I've seen from you that is just packed with technical info. I hope you are getting paid enough."


This place can get really snarky and uptight sometimes. My Ford F-150 was a POS, but the forum was way more relaxed and calm.