1998 sr5 frame swap + possible maintenance/build thread
 

So I’ve been lurking on this forum for quite some time but joined early in 2019. I purchased this 1998 Toyota 4Runner sr5 with 123k miles from copart sight unseen. Damage description was “minor dents and scratches”. I figured it was something to do with rust considering that it was in Delaware. Either way went ahead and pulled the trigger on this and got a great deal IMO. Very well maintained by one owner according to CarFax report.
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Sure enough the driver side rear lower control arm was rusted off.
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Other than that the rest of the frame was in decent shape, considering the truck was in Delaware it’s whole life. I wanted to patch the rust but after some thinking I decided that a frame swap would be a better option for me. I started looking for a clean frame and found one for a great deal in TN with no rust at all.

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After some reading on this forum I decided to go the Eastwood rust prevention on the inside of the frame and POR-15 on the exterior.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dfe4f0364c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a35340c964.jpg




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What’s some recommended maintenance that I should do while I’m in there?

So far I will be doing the valve cover gaskets, all fluids flush, polyurethane body mounts, and probably the trans cooler.


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Venka93’s SR5 build/maintenance thread
 

A little update on that frame swap


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7cc9f667b2.jpg


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I would get over analytical and replace every but and bolt with stainless where possible, and all new bushings wherever needed. Especially body bushings because the frame is already off. But this is a selfish post because I'm more interested in how you located the frame?

It was a lot easier to find the frame than I thought it would. Craigslist. I searched cities in the south


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Really?! I'll do that then! Were you looking for part outs or just searching for frames?

I found mine on car-part.com. There were plenty on there. I found one in good condition right here in NJ, but it was a 2001 wrecked in 2010, so half the years on the road as my old one. Shipping is brutal on these babies if you can't go get it.

Pics in my sig.

rusted rear trailing arm frame mount
 

Is there any hope of salvaging a frame that has rust in that area? I have a truck from Rochester, NY, but at this point there's a hole through the floor above the passenger side shock perch thing and some holes on the frame, where the rear trailing arm meets the frame. At this point I'm wondering if it's salvageable, will a welder take this on? Or should i just find another rig and swap over the 4wd driveline. PINA.... solid work :fro:

I found this one by looking for a part out. I’m not sure of the prices out there now but I seen one on here for $1400. Which in my opinion is wayyyy too much. I paid a fraction of that.


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I honestly don’t know. Seems like a lot of work. I’m sure you could get an estimate from some welder. I decided to swap my frame because I want to keep this rig for a while. Plus I’m doing it myself so it comes out a lot cheaper for me too.


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I think I speak for everyone on here that we would like to see pics before saying anything. Some are toast; some are fixable. People have done amazing things.

I second that. Your description made it sound bad but you never know.


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Right on. I'll take a couple snaps in the morning of my pitting/holes...just finished cutting off my front bumper tonight. I'll definitely prioritize rust prevention from now on haha. This truck is going on 22 years old so I have to say I am willing to put in blood, sweat, and tears as she's been doing the same for the 5 years I have owned her.

I am hoping this within the realm of fixable by an amazing act... haha.
The first is driver side, no pitting on the inside side of the lower control arm mount, but there is considerable scaling that I have painted over.
The second is passenger side, no pitting on the outside, only inside.
Third is the issue with the floor in the rear which I have layed fiberglass over top of from the inside. I regret not using chicken wire to help create the form, but this is not a final solution, just a patch for now.