Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/)
-   3rd gen T4Rs (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/)
-   -   Rust Belt Parking Brake Repair Failure (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/277433-rust-belt-parking-brake-repair-failure.html)

Last Man Standing 09-11-2019 04:49 PM

Rust Belt Parking Brake Repair Failure
 
2 Attachment(s)
I had hoped to tear apart the Bell Cranks and sand them down a bit
and lube em up and put the suckers back in and be in business, No Dice dam things were so rusted it took a torch to loosen some parts to take it apart. The pivot point inside was so bad I called Olath Toyota and ordered all new parts.

The odd thing about Toyota does not sell total parts kit for such a replacement?
Man them parts adds up quick, but in these parts if the parking brakes don't work you cannot pass inspection. Looks like two hunch plus S&H, Dam that hurts but not as bad if I had taken it to the shop to be done.

Next repair is the rear side bumper, bought it off Ebay $40 delivered and that was the cheep part? Paint came in at $60 with supplies which lead to a polishing tool needed to gloss the clear coat?, tried that by hand and way to much effort and I now realize why the Body & Fender folks get so much money.
At this point bumper was primed when I bought it, three base coats with wet sanding 1500 grit in between each coat, three coats of clear with sanding in between those and undercoating on the backside. No once the polisher gets here I can finish it up and put her on. Mufflers and metal bumpers just don't go together. The picture shows the bumper prior to final polish and wax!

LMS

Bad Luck 09-11-2019 05:53 PM

I got my bell crank kit from NAPA. About $60 for both sides.

Last Man Standing 09-11-2019 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bad Luck (Post 3354019)
I got my bell crank kit from NAPA. About $60 for both sides.

Tried them, they looked at me like I had two heads????
I asked the fellow and had he no clue what I was looking for so figured
it was an OEM type purchase....Thanks

LMS

Crowcifier6 09-11-2019 06:15 PM

NAPA and AutoZone couldn't find the kits for me, but Advanced Auto has a Dorman bell crank e brake kit, $40 if i remember correctly. Cheap crap steel, I packed the boots with grease and lubed every surface...worth it to me if it lasts a year or two.

brillo_76 09-11-2019 08:24 PM

These drum brake arms have been issues since the 1970's in the rust belt.

When they start getting rusty. Unbolt them out off the brake plate. Take off the keeper lock ring off and separate them. Then descale them and sand the pins smooth again. You can paint the parts if you wish but mostly just flakes off in a year.

Put back together and see if everything moves freely. If not clean more grind etc till it all moves freely again. Then get the grease out or fluid film and coat all that area in the boots really heavy. I also suggest that movement be checked at least once a year.

As these can rust and bind up quickly. In the winter months, try not to use it a lot. As they also physically freeze too. Then you out there with a hammer banging back to release position with 6 inches of snow on the ground. [ been there several times]


Dont forget to check the mounting pins and that pivot assembly on the rear end of the brake cable too as they can bind up as well.

One of the reasons I keep kicking around coverting the back brakes to disc.. but they probably freeze and rust up too. :[

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

BostonJon 09-12-2019 07:32 AM

I just rebuilt my rear bell cranks with parts from RockAuto. It wasn’t expensive and everything went together well. I also replaced the entire ebrake cable with an OEM part - which was $90. System works great now though and gave me a chance to adjust the rear drum brakes at the same time.

Last Man Standing 09-13-2019 07:35 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Alas, the Parking brake saga continues..........:mad2:

I start the other side and what do I find but the drivers side cable
is hanging from the brake drum? Tries to remove the broken bolt
with a torch and a socket wrench but was just rounding over the shank.
To make matter worse I pull the drum and what do I find, a bunch of
gear oil inside the drum covering the pads? Can't believe It was still
breaking without me noticing and no smoke either? Now I have two
problems to deal with? Anybody have a suggestion for the brake cable
support other than replace the cable as a unit?

brillo_76 09-13-2019 09:44 PM

Dang, LMS not having the luck. Check the breather, we rust those baby's shut and builds pressure. Those are cheap new.

I have seen some folks, clean the bearings and repack them. I have about 30K on my oil soaked rear axle bearings and didnt do a thing to them. (Not recommended at all).

I fixed the breather and changed my rear seals and put it back together, my 3rd member has some wear and my housing has jb weld on the back plate holding it from seeping. Not to mention the locus heavy duty oil stabilizer in place of gear grease. [Makes my 3rd member quieter at 70mph]

Which bracket are you after?? The one that holds the emergencies brake in the drum or the one that on bolts in the pivot point and has the cable to the passenger side?

Last Man Standing 09-14-2019 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76 (Post 3355407)
Dang, LMS not having the luck. Check the breather, we rust those baby's shut and builds pressure. Those are cheap new.

I have seen some folks, clean the bearings and repack them. I have about 30K on my oil soaked rear axle bearings and didnt do a thing to them. (Not recommended at all).

I fixed the breather and changed my rear seals and put it back together, my 3rd member has some wear and my housing has jb weld on the back plate holding it from seeping. Not to mention the locus heavy duty oil stabilizer in place of gear grease. [Makes my 3rd member quieter at 70mph]

Which bracket are you after?? The one that holds the emergencies brake in the drum or the one that on bolts in the pivot point and has the cable to the passenger side?

Morning Brillo,

Put one of those breather's on order this week as a precaution as I expect the rust belt got to that sucker! Thinking I will do the "Timmy" raise into the gas cap area and end that problem. I have to tear into the cable as the pivot point on the drivers side looks pretty bad at the cable as well? So thinking I will order a new cable system. I forgot to take a pic of the oil buildup on the brake pad, man I can't believe she stopped so well with all the grime on it?

Have you done that bearing replacement? How much time did you have into the project? I figure I minus well order a set w/boots so I have them on hand. With the weather moving in I may farm it out to the mechanic shop?
Gonna be a lot of $$$ I bet. I also want to do the timing belt, water pump and have to order that from air cabin man on Ebay...

As to the brakes, all parts are ordered from Olathe Toyota for the Bell Cranks as they were to far gone to be repairable imo. At least I'm gaining knowledge of how these system's work. Ordered a Toyota repair manual to better understand how this Sh*t works.....

LMS

Mudeprived 09-14-2019 08:06 AM

Just hit the cranks with Fluid Film before winter and every time you see the can of Fluid Film throughout winter and they stay rust free.

I am also a member of the bearing repacker club. Mine leaked at 170k so I picked off the side cover of the bearing, cleaned em, then repacked em full with synthetic grease using a small syringe. I am at 182k now. Having said that, I bet they will fail tomorrow.

Bad Luck 09-14-2019 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Last Man Standing (Post 3355524)
Morning Brillo,

Put one of those breather's on order this week as a precaution as I expect the rust belt got to that sucker! Thinking I will do the "Timmy" raise into the gas cap area and end that problem. I have to tear into the cable as the pivot point on the drivers side looks pretty bad at the cable as well? So thinking I will order a new cable system. I forgot to take a pic of the oil buildup on the brake pad, man I can't believe she stopped so well with all the grime on it?

Have you done that bearing replacement? How much time did you have into the project? I figure I minus well order a set w/boots so I have them on hand. With the weather moving in I may farm it out to the mechanic shop?
Gonna be a lot of $$$ I bet. I also want to do the timing belt, water pump and have to order that from air cabin man on Ebay...

As to the brakes, all parts are ordered from Olathe Toyota for the Bell Cranks as they were to far gone to be repairable imo. At least I'm gaining knowledge of how these system's work. Ordered a Toyota repair manual to better understand how this Sh*t works.....

LMS

Wheel bearings aren't that bad if you have access to a press. Timmy has several youtube videos on the whole process and there's a loaner tool program on the forum here. The best part of pressing the bearings/retainers/abs rings is you can reuse most of it. Some people can swap retainer locations and be good. I opted for 2 new retainers for the axle seal to ride on.

Last Man Standing 09-14-2019 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudeprived (Post 3355533)
Just hit the cranks with Fluid Film before winter and every time you see the can of Fluid Film throughout winter and they stay rust free.

I am also a member of the bearing repacker club. Mine leaked at 170k so I picked off the side cover of the bearing, cleaned em, then repacked em full with synthetic grease using a small syringe. I am at 182k now. Having said that, I bet they will fail tomorrow.

Mud,

Thanks for the tips!
I did some research on here and decided to use silicone lubricant inside the boot as well as all around the boot where it meets metal. Trying to keep salt penetration to a minimum as when I took the old boot off you would have sworn you were emptying a salt shaker ! I could not find the recommended one made by dynatex so bought NAPA's Sil-Glyde product. I'm also at 170K so our mileage is on par. I did order the fluid film applicator so I can buy the product by the gallon as the cans add up to fast imo.

Last Man Standing 09-14-2019 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bad Luck (Post 3355569)
Wheel bearings aren't that bad if you have access to a press. Timmy has several youtube videos on the whole process and there's a loaner tool program on the forum here. The best part of pressing the bearings/retainers/abs rings is you can reuse most of it. Some people can swap retainer locations and be good. I opted for 2 new retainers for the axle seal to ride on.

Brillo,

Thanks for the heads up on the info!
I just finished Tim's video ( 2nd. part ) and find the job intriguing and went down to look at that 20 ton press at HF so I may take it on but wanted to do some traveling with the rig this fall, but a bit concerned about the bearing issue?

Bad Luck 09-14-2019 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Last Man Standing (Post 3355588)
Brillo,

Thanks for the heads up on the info!
I just finished Tim's video ( 2nd. part ) and find the job intriguing and went down to look at that 20 ton press at HF so I may take it on but wanted to do some traveling with the rig this fall, but a bit concerned about the bearing issue?

I chose to replace my bearings with OEM toyota instead of repacking like some people have done. Some people can get away with it, but not me. If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all. My other piece of advise is to buy 3 axle seals. I managed to mess one of mine up during install, but I had the 3rd one already so it wasn't a big deal. The extra $8 was worth it to make sure I got it back together that day.

Last Man Standing 09-14-2019 12:46 PM

2 Attachment(s)
So spent an hour looking over the situation with a ball peen hammer in hand!
Tried to use a large vise grip to loosen the broken stud and even with the torch on it, no go all it would do is round over in the jaws of the vise grips. The nut is welded to the bracket so the only option I had was to use a recip saw and cut that nut off the bracket. Wasn't bad using cutting oil and a sharp metal blade. If you can see it is a very specialized bolt that fits into two rubber washers that allow it to articulate when engaging the parking brake.

Below are two pic's of the actual armature that is attached to the bracket for reference.

Being inside the wheel well and needing glasses as I can't see a F*ucking thing up close, I decided more light would help, but a cord and the shop lite was getting in the way, so went to HF and picked of this magnetic light that really made it a pleasure to be able to clearly see what the heck I was trying to do, FYI folks! Had a 20% off coupon so ended up at $32 pricey for sure but when to need a specific spot to light up that magnetic holder is the nuts!
390 Lumen Magnetic Slim Bar Folding LED Work Light

Hope this may be of help to anyone with the same problem.

LMS


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:58 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger