What to do “while i’m in there” doing Lower Ball Joints?
Just picked up a 97 T4R and it’s got a small lift with billsteins and bigger tires. I got it knowing the LBJs are in need of replacement, as the boots on both of them are torn. On the highway, the steering wheel wobbles a little bit up to 65 and it gets a little smoother around 75.
I’m not planning on taking it back on the highway until the ball joints are replaced. I’m going with OEM ones, of course. I have a pretty limited tool set here at college, but i’m sure i can get it done in a day with basic sockets and a rented puller tool. I want to stay under $300-$400 for the whole job, so is there anything else that’s easy to inspect/replace while i’m in there that could also be contributing to steering wheel wobble? |
Shake the wheels down and look for play in the tie Rods and upper ball joints. Nothing really has to be taken apart to do the LBJ's so replacing anything is just going to be added work. Have the balance and alignment checked out once you get it all back together.
Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk |
^^^^ Yes what they said. That's good info^^^^
Its relatively easy. That was the first thing I attempted to replace when I got mine was the LBJ's, it took me 2 hours for one side and then 45 minutes for the other since I knew what to do. Good luck |
I wouldn't waste money on an alignment unless you have obvious play in your balljoints and there's a possibility the last alignment was done with the balljoints in this condition. When you replace the balljoints, nothing is going to change with the alignment. It's when you replace tie rods, LCA (Lower Control Arm) bushings, install a lift that you should do an alignment afterward.
You're wheel wobble is most likely just due to wheel balancing. Have a reputable shop check the balancing for you. The thing to do at the same time would be LCA bushings. But, if the rig is driving fine, don't mess with them until you have to. You could also do inner and outer tie rods if you found they were worn out. Steering rack bushings is another consideration along with sway bar bushings. And, the list goes on.... With the front wheels off the ground, check for wheel bearing play by grabbing the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and push with one hand while pulling with the other feeling for any play. If there's any detectable play, you're wheel bearings should be replaced. When you grab the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, pushing and pulling back and forth, you can feel for tie rod and steering rack play. The wheel is going to move but you're feeling for a looseness/play or popping. You can also manually grab the outer tie rod connection at the balljoint and push and pull on it trying to detect any play in the joint. If there's play, replace it. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
I'd put money on your inner and outer rods needing replacing.
If the tie rods drop after you unhook them from the ball joint - then no bueno. When I disconnected mine they dropped right away and you could move them all around with the lightest touch. This means they are bad. They should be able to hold their own weight mid air. Chances are, with the miles of most 4Runners, the inners are just as bad - why not do everything at once? |
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Honestly I’ll probably do those another weekend because i’ve realized how simple the LBJs are to replace. Do you guys have any aftermarket recommendations for the tie rods? i’ve seen a few sets of both inner and outer for under $70. which brands should I avoid? i’m guessing OEM isn’t as important with these as it is with the LBJs are as they’re not holding the weight of the truck lol |
@wtfemery
When you replace the LBJ's replace the bolts as well. Some people have the bolts break after replacing the LBJ.
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If you end up swapping out your tie rods, this video may help you out. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/--HcOQlv03U" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
1.) LCA bushings
2.) Rack bushings 3.) Slip joint tack weld 4.) Inner/outer tie rods 5.) Strut bushings (or maybe just new struts) 6.) Rear control arm bushings (upper and lower) In order of preference. But then again, I'd personally do them all -- mostly because I love throwing WAY too many parts at these trucks. They just drive so much better after a complete suspension refresh. |
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thank you. although i do not see that being done in 30 minutes without having done it before. i noticed a clunk in my steering shaft yesterday when putting in an aftermarket steering wheel. my room mate and i couldnt figure out where it was coming from. safe to assume its this shaft?
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