Battery upgrade!
 

So I've finally got everything together for the big jump to a deep cycle agm.

I think I've got all my bases covered, but is there anything else I should look at?

I've got:
1.) X2/Northstar 24F AGM battery.
2.) US made military style Lead terminals.
3.) Copper lugs with heat shrink/wrap/whatever.
4.) Noco brand anti-corrosion washers.
5.) Noco brand corrosion preventative grease stuff
6.) US made military style terminal covers

Thoughts?

https://i.imgur.com/fHmwJKcr.jpg

Very nice!

I'm still deciding on a new main battery, hoping to run a dual setup somehow.

I dont see why that wouldn't work. :]

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Well I was pretty sure I wanted to get a Northstar, but then I found out that my local batteries plus carried this brand called X2 that is made by northstar!

It checked all the boxes, but also it has... a 5 year warranty!!!

How much did the battery run you? I may just have to drive down from the states or order some in. I dont have very many good choices in canada unless they're hidden in smaller shops around the city. And based on previous experiences I dont want to have to rely on Optima.

The 27F should fit and is 92ah according to their site for 50 more dollars. When my interstate dies I may replace it with a 27f instead of another 24f.


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I think you might need some more Gatorade to complete this project.

With the "discount" by ordering online and it picking up in store, about $299 and some change.

Got the battery installed, she starts MUCH faster and with more "oomph" now!

with the copper lugs, are you gonna crimp, or solder, or both....just curious.
I can make it through this winter, but was thinking of next summer doing a new agm, new clamps and new lugs

It would be best to to crimp and solder. The solder should slow down oxidation in the cable that's in the crimp.

I honestly see no point in replacing the OEM crimps on the OEM cables unless the oxidation is super bad in the crimps. I can understand some wanting to change the OEM battery terminals as they are small surface areas and some battery terminals are just too small to tighten up properly.

I can even understand going to the fiberglass mat agm batteries as they are paste electrolyte instead of lead acid.


The best battery that's on the market are the lithium batteries. However, they are priced out of site right now. So deep cycle agm are an excellent choice.

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Very nice. I bought one of these in Sept. My final cost was $266.

B+B had a 15% off code then and a $20 rebate. Pretty sweet deal on a great battery with an excellent warranty.

And just wait until you have a warranty claim and you take it to your nearest B+B and you are in and out in 30 mins. No shipping it back and waiting or having it inspected.


Eddie

Well for some reason my mechanic got a bit confused... He is Korean and sometimes there is a communication break down... But at the same time he charges so little that I cannot complain.
Time was short today which is why I opted to let him do it all.
Thankfully he got the corroded shit out of there.

Haha!

Anyway, so I'll have to swap the terminals over to the ones I bought and then re-lug if I need too.

But MAN, guys I am loving this bad boy so far. The starter spins up with mad authority now and cranks the engine up fast as shit. I'm assuming this is how it's supposed to crank. It's fantastic.

I guess the start was starved for amps before?
:hungry:

You can throw away the all the anti-corrosion stuff because AGMs are sealed and do not cause corrosion, period.
If your driving is mostly short trips, you could add a nice AGM-friendly smart charger for occasional full recharging, because short trips do not fully recharge AGMs, in my experience (21 years with AGMs in Toyota trucks).
The AGMs still have a very long service life, but seem to need a good 1.5+(or more) hour highway drive to fully recharge.

Wow really? I was gun-ho, torches and pitchforks prepared to combat any and all corrosion... Haha.

When your say add a charger, are you talking about like a mod to the truck?

I was thinking of adding a voltometer since I read that agm's are sensitive to overcharge, so I felt it may be good to monitor it

When dissimilar metals touch you can have some oxidation. Copper and lead in time will slightly oxidize..

Good information on the AGM. I even trickle charge my lead acids over night a few times a year especially in the winter months in the northeast.

If we keep the battery lead acid fully charged, they last longer. :]

This information also holds for all lead acid as the agm are basically just gel paste fiberglass mat instead of liquid acid.


Granted the AGM will hold a charge better then the wet cells do.

I have seen wet batteries last 10 years or more in the northeast as long as they are kept fully charged. :]




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