5th Gen P2443 Code/Secondary Air Injection
 

(MODS/ADMIN: I realize I have no concerns for warranty work on this vehicle yet, so I cross-posted this to the 5th Gen forum where I think it is more appropriate at this time. Please delete the thread here under the Problems/Warranty forum. )

I have searched here and elsewhere and generally only find information about this issue with Tacomas from roughly 2005-2012. There is almost no commentary about this issue or solutions with a 5th Gen T4R.

I have a 2014 LE with 75k miles. Just bought it CPO about a month ago. It has had no notable concerns until today.

Air temperature about 18 degrees, although this past week we have had several days below zero when the 4Runner ran fine.

Hopped in, started it up, and immediately see the CHL and Traction Control lights illuminated. Shut down, restarted, same thing. Pulled out my code reader and saw P2443. Cleared the code, warning lights shut off, and I drove to work like normal.

We are supposed to take this vehicle to visit family next week and I don't want to have it break down and leave us stranded. There are some horror stories on Tundra forums. I live in the middle of nowhere in Vermont with no Toyota dealer close by, although I could get to one if I had to.

How should I proceed? Don't worry about it? Bring it to the dealer? Buy a bypass kit?

Bringing this topic up. I have a 2018 and I'm pulling P2441, 2443 and 2445 codes, all related with Secondary Air Pump.
I tried to find without success what the Sec Air Pump warranty is.
Does anybody know?

Following up with this thread. I have a '13 Ltd, same three p codes. Any help would be appreciated!

Following thread, 2017 4runner had 3 p2443 codes this morning temp was 9F above this morning. Could not clear the permanent code.

After some research, I found out that Maryland's emission system warranty is covered by 2 warranties: performance and design and defect ( https://mde.maryland.gov/programs/Ai...anties2008.pdf ). There are several states covered by design and defect beyond the factory warranty so I suggest checking with your state and push back to the dealer if it is a defect (covered by 8 years or 80 000 miles).

I need to mention that I do have an on-board air compressor installed on C4Fab second battery tray (on the passenger side) very close to the passenger side secondary air valve. In my case, last week I discovered that the small plastic neck piece from the top of the valve was broken. Probably this happened while offroading, and due to air compressor move, this fragile plastic broke off.

I removed the air compressor, glued the tube neck and reattached the tube that triggers the pressure switch to open the air valve (this acts similar with an electric relay but based on air pressure).

The codes have not re-appeared since then. I did not have time to check if the permanent codes are erased - I will wait another week to check since I did not drive too much lately.

The way I discovered this, I tried to troubleshoot the issue to see if the air is blocked from the air pump to the air valves: I checked that the air pump works then I moved to the air distribution tubes to the air valves and then I moved to the air "relay" pressure.

I suggest inspecting small tubes first to see if they are clear or blocked. If they are blocked, the air valves will not open and will trigger these 3 codes. Be very careful removing the pressure tubes as the plastic tube is fragile; use a heat gun or hair dryer to loosen up the small tube. At the bottom, the tube is connected to a metalic neck so is safe.

My concern is that even thought only the passenger air valve side was at fault, I had also the air pump and driver side codes triggered... :confused:

You ever find a solution to the p2443? Sadly experiencing this in my new to me 2016 SR5P at 45k

Check my post, it was the passenger side valve.

I had the same P2441, P2443, and P2445 Codes that TodiN mentioned, AND after installing the C4Fab battery tray he installed. Thanks to his post I knew what to look for. Saved me a ton of diag time, so thanks, I owe you a beer!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VB...-no?authuser=0

Did you have pictures of what tubes you damaged by any chance?
 

I have the same issue after installing the second battery tray, but I removed it and can’t figure out where I may have damaged the hose/tube. Did anyone take pictures of it that they could share? Thanks for the input



QUOTE=TodiN;3575301]After some research, I found out that Maryland's emission system warranty is covered by 2 warranties: performance and design and defect ( https://mde.maryland.gov/programs/Ai...anties2008.pdf ). There are several states covered by design and defect beyond the factory warranty so I suggest checking with your state and push back to the dealer if it is a defect (covered by 8 years or 80 000 miles).

I need to mention that I do have an on-board air compressor installed on C4Fab second battery tray (on the passenger side) very close to the passenger side secondary air valve. In my case, last week I discovered that the small plastic neck piece from the top of the valve was broken. Probably this happened while offroading, and due to air compressor move, this fragile plastic broke off.

I removed the air compressor, glued the tube neck and reattached the tube that triggers the pressure switch to open the air valve (this acts similar with an electric relay but based on air pressure).

The codes have not re-appeared since then. I did not have time to check if the permanent codes are erased - I will wait another week to check since I did not drive too much lately.

The way I discovered this, I tried to troubleshoot the issue to see if the air is blocked from the air pump to the air valves: I checked that the air pump works then I moved to the air distribution tubes to the air valves and then I moved to the air "relay" pressure.

I suggest inspecting small tubes first to see if they are clear or blocked. If they are blocked, the air valves will not open and will trigger these 3 codes. Be very careful removing the pressure tubes as the plastic tube is fragile; use a heat gun or hair dryer to loosen up the small tube. At the bottom, the tube is connected to a metalic neck so is safe.

My concern is that even thought only the passenger air valve side was at fault, I had also the air pump and driver side codes triggered... :confused:[/QUOTE]