SOS HELP 3RD GEN 4Runner Broke!!
 

Good afternoon Toyota Fam!!!
So update I have not driving my 4runner for the longest time! and now it won't start for S*** lol Wanted to give the truck to my little brother but what good does it do if it won't even pass the smog test here in California :( that alone is another problem ughhhhhh!!!!!!

If anyone can chime in with problem number one that would be amazing!!!
okay so on April 20th of this year I replaced the battery with an interstate one. problem solved. Fast forward today I tried turning it on and no go. I tried jump starting it and it only clicks. Checked the dash board and as soon as I turned the key the power completely goes away. Disconnected the battery took it to my local Autozone store to see if the battery had juice.The 3 salesmen where just laughing
and saying stuff like ohh interstate blah blah the other guy I have never seen a battery soo dead 0.97% charge -___- GREAT!!! We can't charge this for its own life. KOOL F****** THANKS. Took it to Firestone and got it swapped for a new since it was under warranty plus I got a bigger batter :rockon:.Problem solved if this didn't solve the issue I was ready to buy a new starter because I've pulled it twice already replaced plunger and contacts so about to give up on it at this point. . So my step dad keeps saying say problem is going to happen where your battery its going to completely drain because its your alternator. :shrug:

They make these for a reason.


https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Ten...s%2C143&sr=1-7

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1000_.jpg

Yup, had a spare battery on a float charger for a year. Started fine when I had to use it.

I was thinking of buying a multi meter to see if I can find where the drain is coming from

Very good idea. The current draw is really low if all the circuits are good. I forgot how low off the top of my head it's in mA



The fastest way to fix it. Would be to have everything off and put the multimeter in amps and hook it in series between the positive battery terminal and battery. Buy removing the terminal connect a lead to the terminal then the other lead to the battery.

If it's above the normal range of ma after going into sleep mode. You can pull every fuse one by one until you find the circuits that are having issues with. Then trace them out and find the problem.


Several ways to find the shorts. Check your doors and tailgate under boots as these wires can break and short together sometimes.




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You need about 3 less Redbulls before you post. That's the solution to problem 1.5.

As for Problem One, as you call it, a bad alternator isn't going to cause a parasitic drain. You can easily find out if it's bad though with a volt meter. Ring the battery terminals with the truck running, it should be reading 13.2 or higher. If not, then you need to hit it with a load tester and see if it's in fact the alternator or a bad cell with the battery. There's your starting point.

If it was a lead acid battery, likely one of the cells died sitting for 8 months. You might have a parasite somewhere though. Aftermarket headunit? Alarm? Remote start? Any other electronic add ons?

Two battery draining problems I found on mine were daylight running lights not turning off and the power antenna motor. Those will both drain battery super fast

i had a phantom drain problem that turned out ironically to be caused by voltage readout panels i had installed. having them on 24/7 in a vehicle i wasn't driving even every week was really dumb... and resulted in hosing up my dual batteries. fortunately i was able to use a battery reconditioner and they hold a charge, now. anyway, all that said, a phantom drain is very often due to aftermarket stuff -- a mis-installed radio, rock lights left running by accident /cough/ done that /cough/, or heck by the very thing one intended to use for monitoring battery charge. lame but true. @brillo_76 offers great advice above.

Okay awesome will head to my local Home Depot for a voltmeter and get back with an update. What’s a load tester? Nope no after market head unit nor any aftermarket add ons

Yes I need to find a way to disconnect that broken antenna anyways

It's a meter you can hook up that will test the charging system. Any of your local parts stores will have one and will lend it to you.

If you not sure how to use the amp section of a multi meter. I am sure you tube has some videos on it. As it's not hard However, you always select the highest setting of amps and work down. Even 1 amp or 2 can drain a battery down faster then one would think.

It's the current flow that's the issue when the rigs are shut down.

Harbor freight sales a automotive meter that will do most of the things you need but its amp section wasnt very high 10 amps only.

Ok meter

LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit


30 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester


Fuse circuit tester up to 30 amp.

From my experience, these can be hard to find at times. It also could be something you least expect too.

So that's why I start with the amp reading and pull one fuse at a time until you find the current drop. It can sometimes be a few circuits too.

The reason I pull the terminal is that sometimes the short is isolation missing on your starter cable or alternator starting to fail etc.

Plus its safer to have an amp meter in when checking circuits as you can pull a lead to disconnect something and not short things out.

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Had it not been driven since april? If that’s the case probably the battery drained to the normal draw the vehicle has.

I would start by cleaning the Batt post and putting the batt on a charger. If it starts and runs fine over a couple of days your most likely fine. If it does not and you have AAA they will test the batt for free or take it down to you local Autozone or Orelley and they will test it or even charge it for you.

As far as a load test you can do that with the batt in the car by first charging it completely then take a volt meter reading should be about 12.5 To do a load test turn the key to run but don't start the engine. While behind the wheel turn head lights to on ( I know they come on already ) and turn the fan on to high. Allow them to run for about 30 sec to 1 min then turn it off. This takes the surface voltage off the batt. now take a volt reading off the batt again it should be about 11.5 or higher. If it is at about 10.5 or lower and the Batt was fully charged when you started the Batt is bad.

:ranger:

Did I miss it in that ramble somewhere? How long had the truck been sitting?

If you are leaving it for more than a few weeks just pull the negative cable off when parking. Any vehicle will kill it's battery if left for too long.

Normal resting load will be under 100ma but I suspect you just left it way too long.