Woolwax after almost 2 months.
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I undercoated my 3rd gen as some added insurance to all of the frame / undercarriage work I did this past summer. I must say this product has me completely satisfied.
I applied the undercoating with a Wagner electric paint gun. (HVLP) and it came out perfectly. I purchased a gallon of the black color undercoating (Woolwax Brand) and I let it set for just over a month before finally washing my truck today. Personally i was scared that it would all wash off if i got a car wash immediately and slowly it turned from an oil texture to a heavy dirty grease texture which is what I wanted. I went through a full service touch car wash with an undercarriage wash because I have an unlimited membership with the local company and these are the results. Honestly I cant tell a difference after the first wash. However I'm going to take some time tomorrow to reapply a second coat because the weather is warm in Michigan right now and I'll more than likely only get one car wash per month this winter to keep the coating as thick as possible. I use a flag mount on my front bumper as a gauge for how the rest of the truck looks. Anyways, for any undercoating questions this is the real deal. In addition to that I'll apply some WD-40 on the inside of the frame because I dont want something this thick in there. I hit up the sand dunes all summer with my truck and I'm not looking to get the entire inside of my frame filled with a sandy thick oil lol. |
Wool wax is similar to Fluid Film. Just comes in black. I even use the woolwax guns and containers when I coat my rides undercarriages, inside panels etc.
WD-40 will work great inside your frame. I know FF does too, when I rebuild frames, I remove the frame holes so I don't have to worry about coating the inside of the frames ever again. The Salt belt is just a killer on all rides. :-( Looks Great VernySanders. :-) |
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Dogtail undercarriage looks great and he only used WD-40 from Day one when it was new. |
What are your thoughts on Eastwood frame coating?
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Maybe great for non rust belt areas. I never use it again. Overpriced black spray paint. Rustoleum would do a better job. ;) Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk |
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The frames really do seem to rot out from the inside box frame. However, I can only speak from the experiences that I have had dealing with Toyotas in the rust belt.
The trick to get steel from rusting and rotting is to keep oxygen away from it. Many methods will accomplish this task. When I rebuild frames. I basically cut the rot away and rebuild them. Then treat the steel while welding the frame back together. I basically remove all the frames holes thus sealing the frame from junk getting inside it. As they will actually fill up with dirt and rust if not cleaned out. I also when fishing sections not only paint the frame but coat the entire inside in fluid film extremely heavy. This seems to last and actually hold up the best then just plating the outside of the frame rails. As the metal cancer is gone so that cant spread along with all rotted steel. By playing the inside your holes are sealed and your frame is like plywood. If welded together properly you basically have a u frame within a frame that is very strong and really should last and extremely long time if probably taken care of. Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk |
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I would at least see if you can wash all the dirt out of your frame. And coat the inside with wool wax or Fluid film as those fluids will super creep around. Maybe stop the rust rot from getting worse. Then when that is done. Seal your frame holes shut with silicone if nothing else. It will keep the crap out and at the same time keep the fluid film in. If you get a flexible camera size you can saw inside the frame you be amazed at sections of it. Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk |
The crap gets up where you won't see it and stays there. That's where the rot starts in, rust belt or not. Found this inside the rear framerails of my relatively rust free runner. There was some silty soil up around the crossmembers, packed on the spare wheel, really anywhere that could hold onto it.
This type of soil is not like a thick clay or even a mucky loamy soil, those would dry out and cake on. Silt will absorb the moisture out of the air and stay damp, starting to eat away at the metal over time. Just because you aren't in the "rust belt" doesn't necessarily mean you don't have something to worry about. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5fe7bcfe84.jpg Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk |
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I believe Mn would be considered rust belt :suspicious:and with recent purchase of a 00 with what I would consider minimal rust considering it is from Mn I am looking at doing Woolwax or FF come spring when I can do a wash and dry on the frame before applying. |
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The penetrating oils my react with rubbers and seals. So make sure you stay inside the frame with PB. Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk |
Won't PB Blaster or WD40 dissolve wool wax or fluid film?
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I had not considered the effects of PBlaster on rubber and gaskets.
I shot some PBlaster on some rusted bolts and some excess ran down the frame and had a lightbulb moment wondering if it penetrates rust why not use it for preventing rust. |
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