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-   -   Electrical components on passenger side? (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/281379-electrical-components-passenger-side.html)

Ykket 01-03-2020 11:27 AM

Electrical components on passenger side?
 
Has anyone mounted their electrical components on the passenger side of the engine bay? I already have a compressor mounted on the driver side and don't have any plans of a second battery. Trying to see if there is some sort of mounting bracket I could use or if I need to get one made up myself. There is plenty of space that I am hoping to use. Edit: I am talking about mounting fuse boxes, etc in this location

Thanks

llDemonll 01-03-2020 12:38 PM

Lots of people do. Compressor, battery, etc.

Ykket 01-03-2020 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by llDemonll (Post 3418202)
Lots of people do. Compressor, battery, etc.

I probably should have given more info. I meant components such as fuse blocks, etc.

jhguth 01-03-2020 01:29 PM

i think the only reason most people don't put fuse blocks and stuff there is because there is a really convenient spot for them on the drivers side, which also happens to be closer to the battery

you could just as easily mount them on the passenger side though, nothing wrong with it

sn_85 01-03-2020 02:09 PM

If you're not running a second battery then just move the air compressor to the passenger side and mount your fuse block/relay/switch to the driver side. You want all your fuses and electricals as close to the battery as you can. The longer your run a wire without a fuse the greater the chance you'll get a short and fry something.

Ykket 01-03-2020 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sn_85 (Post 3418261)
If you're not running a second battery then just move the air compressor to the passenger side and mount your fuse block/relay/switch to the driver side. You want all your fuses and electricals as close to the battery as you can. The longer your run a wire without a fuse the greater the chance you'll get a short and fry something.

Thanks, yeah that makes sense. I finally got my compressor mounted this year (well last year) and was hoping not to move it so soon. Looks like that is the best option though. Maybe I can reuse my Slee bracket for some electrical stuff and only need to get a new bracket for passenger side.

97BlackAckCL 01-03-2020 03:04 PM

As stated, a lot of people mount secondary batteries and compressors on the passenger side. Most people mount their fuse blocks near the stock battery location to keep the wiring short. I'd suggest looking into a PowerTray

pDubs 01-03-2020 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhguth (Post 3418233)
i think the only reason most people don't put fuse blocks and stuff there is because there is a really convenient spot for them on the drivers side, which also happens to be closer to the battery

you could just as easily mount them on the passenger side though, nothing wrong with it

Battery is on that side, as well as the firewall access plug to run wires into the cabin, pops out right above brake pedals, and can also tap into the fuse box located under there.

Rack 01-03-2020 08:50 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ykket (Post 3418159)
Has anyone mounted their electrical components on the passenger side of the engine bay? I already have a compressor mounted on the driver side and don't have any plans of a second battery. Trying to see if there is some sort of mounting bracket I could use or if I need to get one made up myself. There is plenty of space that I am hoping to use. Edit: I am talking about mounting fuse boxes, etc in this location

Thanks

This is what I did . But I have a dual battery system. the only difference is that your battery is farther from the panel thus increasing the need for larger gage wire.
May I suggest you start with a Bussman 15303-2-2-4 relay panel. Feed this with a #6 awg or larger Marine rated cable to allow for volatge drop about fifteen feet (Measure it first). Fused at the battery with a Blue sea MRBF Terminal fused at 80 amps.( You can order all this online from Defender Marine in CT).
You can get some 16 gage sheet metal for mounting the bussman panel. Bend the sheet metal to 90 degrees Tracy out the bussman panel then cut out the bottom of the sheet metal to allow the branch circuit wire to flows out the bottom of the panel (someone makes a mount for this panel that would work, I saw it but don't know where)
Use the existing threaded holes in the fender to mount it. You will need some tools to do this. A Drill motor ,Jig saw, Big Hammer to bend the sheet metal and a vice. Also don't forget the split tube and tye wraps.
You you will have 5 relay circuits and 5 non relay circuits to do what ever you need in the future. It may sound complicated but with all the correct parts you will have plenty of room to expand later.

jhguth 01-03-2020 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pDubs (Post 3418391)
Battery is on that side, as well as the firewall access plug to run wires into the cabin, pops out right above brake pedals, and can also tap into the fuse box located under there.

Firewall access is also on the passenger side

jhguth 01-03-2020 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sn_85 (Post 3418261)
If you're not running a second battery then just move the air compressor to the passenger side and mount your fuse block/relay/switch to the driver side. You want all your fuses and electricals as close to the battery as you can. The longer your run a wire without a fuse the greater the chance you'll get a short and fry something.

The wire to the fuse block should be fused, and even at the longer distance it's still short enough that wire gauge isnt much of an issue (even if you have to bump up a gauge it's short enough run that it wont cost much more)

Ykket 01-04-2020 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rack (Post 3418443)
This is what I did . But I have a dual battery system. the only difference is that your battery is farther from the panel thus increasing the need for larger gage wire.
May I suggest you start with a Bussman 15303-2-2-4 relay panel. Feed this with a #6 awg or larger Marine rated cable to allow for volatge drop about fifteen feet (Measure it first). Fused at the battery with a Blue sea MRBF Terminal fused at 80 amps.( You can order all this online from Defender Marine in CT).
You can get some 16 gage sheet metal for mounting the bussman panel. Bend the sheet metal to 90 degrees Tracy out the bussman panel then cut out the bottom of the sheet metal to allow the branch circuit wire to flows out the bottom of the panel (someone makes a mount for this panel that would work, I saw it but don't know where)
Use the existing threaded holes in the fender to mount it. You will need some tools to do this. A Drill motor ,Jig saw, Big Hammer to bend the sheet metal and a vice. Also don't forget the split tube and tye wraps.
You you will have 5 relay circuits and 5 non relay circuits to do what ever you need in the future. It may sound complicated but with all the correct parts you will have plenty of room to expand later.

This is awesome, thank you. Is that picture from your setup? Would the sheet metal need some sort of vertical support?

I had started looking at the Bussmann and pricing out everything I would need. Then I saw this on eBay, Universal Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Panel Cooper Bussmann ATV UTV RV Boat 4X4 | eBay do you think this would work? Price wise, it's just a little more than all the components I had priced out. I already have some 4awg wire that I can probably use from the battery, and a 125amp fuse and 100amp breaker laying around too.

Rack 01-04-2020 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ykket (Post 3418609)
This is awesome, thank you. Is that picture from your setup? Would the sheet metal need some sort of vertical support?

I had started looking at the Bussmann and pricing out everything I would need. Then I saw this on eBay, Universal Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Panel Cooper Bussmann ATV UTV RV Boat 4X4 | eBay do you think this would work? Price wise, it's just a little more than all the components I had priced out. I already have some 4awg wire that I can probably use from the battery, and a 125amp fuse and 100amp breaker laying around too.

The Bussman panel is similar to what I used and It worked well. The wires that come with it are not long enough to really go anywhere so you will have to add on to them.The Bussman relay panel is only rated for 80 amps so size your fuse and wire accordingly.
The other blue sea fuse block and fuse are spendy but they attach to the battery connector so there is no drilling plus it makes for a cleaner installation.
The bracket I made is 16 gage sheet metal its strong enough to support the relay panel so no extra support is needed. Yes that is my photo. I don't have a build page but you can see what I have done by going into my album on page #2 you can see how I did this Mod.
I don't profess to be an expert on my builds its more of a Hobby.
Take your time do it right and have fun.

Ykket 01-04-2020 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rack (Post 3418666)
The Bussman panel is similar to what I used and It worked well. The wires that come with it are not long enough to really go anywhere so you will have to add on to them.The Bussman relay panel is only rated for 80 amps so size your fuse and wire accordingly.
The other blue sea fuse block and fuse are spendy but they attach to the battery connector so there is no drilling plus it makes for a cleaner installation.
The bracket I made is 16 gage sheet metal its strong enough to support the relay panel so no extra support is needed. Yes that is my photo. I don't have a build page but you can see what I have done by going into my album on page #2 you can see how I did this Mod.
I don't profess to be an expert on my builds its more of a Hobby.
Take your time do it right and have fun.

Thank you, this has been incredibly useful information. I have some ideas in mind now.


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