Hard Shifting after adding Pedal Commander?
 

I just got a pedal commander and installed it this weekend. Under normal driving conditions immediately had "hard" shifts. I googled and found this to be the case on some other vehicles and that the computer had to re-learn some stuff and it would go away after a while but haven't read of this on any 4-runners. If I turn it off it goes right back to normal so I am fairly confident that it is directly related. If it doesnt clear up this week I will be sending it back.

Well how high do you have it set? It alters the throttle input seen by the ecu, including the transmission ecu, so it does affect shifting. The higher you have it turned up, the harder the transmission is going to think you stabbed the throttle, but you should have no problems finding a happy medium where the throttle response is improved without the transmission overreacting.

Pedal commander is just a unit that changes the throttle pedal signal. Mashing you foot harder is literally the same as installing a pedal commander.

As mentioned above, just keep playing around with it until you find a happy medium.

Almost... I think the initial throttle tip in exceeds the speed of most peoples ankles.

Let me elaborate. I'm fairly certain the Denso ECU toyota uses as flag for rate of change in throttle application, if this is triggered, the ecu prompts a downshift, and the PC makes it really easy to trigger this. I have noticed it will aggressively downshift much faster, sometimes 2 gears, as in merging onto a freeway post pedal commander install. In my mind, this is the most beneficial thing about a PC.

I have had one for a week, and really like how much better it feels when merging on an on-ramp. However, the really aggressive initial throttle tip in in all the other driving tends to drive me nuts. In all but City mode with 2 clicks on the plus, I don't think the PC is worth it... It is either not enough, or way too aggressive tip in when driving from a stop...

I found myself sometimes turning it off, and sometimes playing with he settings a lot. It isn't as much as set it and forget as I would of liked. I think it needs a 1:1 setting to better mimic a proper cable from pedal to throttle...

I'm on the fence if I will keep mine, or sell it...

As someone who owns TWO identical 2018 4Runners, one with PC and one without, and have tested from stop/city/highway pulls......... MASHING THE PEDAL IS NOT THE SAME!!! FOR THE LOVE OF GOD STOP PERPETUATING THIS! Read the review from Trail4R (trusted, respected site for Runners) as well if you need further validation.

The PC is absolutely night and day from my other Runner without it! The response time, the shift times whatever else it actually does is far beyond anything that can be done with you MASHING THE THROTTLE. I have owned/driven higher end sportscars, plenty track time, and MY reaction time is quite a bit faster than my wife's but her Runner will jump me every time!!

The PC really does change the entire dynamic of the vehicle! Best $300 mod you can do for "performance". Hands down.

OP: Yes, you may want to dial it back to Sport 2-3 if the shifts are too aggressive. Sport Plus is fun but a bit over the top for this type of vehicle.

Excellent explanation! I'm used to driving higher hp cars with sensitive throttles so I happen to like its willingness to pounce but it did take my wife offguard when she first got hers installed. She has since acclimated and loves how much quicker it gets off the line and drops gear to pass compared to the other vehicles in traffic. We run Sport 2/3 and its great IMO.

I'd say give it more of a chance before giving up. Perhaps even go back to stock for a bit to see just how much it really changes things (for the better). If you stiiiiill aren't happy and wanna sell then perhaps Ill take it off your hands for the right price lol.

I've had the PC installed since the beginning of Dec and is always set to Sport-0. The only hard shifting I've noticed was on the freeway gunning it going between the 4th-5th shift at higher speeds but then again this was flooring it at WOT. It is generally pretty responsive but not overly sensitive. Anything higher is a little much even though I prefer a sensitive pedal. Curious as to where the OP has the PC set to?

I don't own the PC I have the Sprint Booster product but I can attest to the higher settings making the driveability factor not so desirable (tendency for rapid / harsh downshifts at lower speeds) so I generally keep the setting on the low end as well for the specific reason stated (more rapid movement of that throttle plate). It's off the line response and general inner city driving where you may be quick stabbing the pedal here and there was where I was looking for the improvement on, not so much getting on the highway or passing conditions there since that isn't my typical drive anyway. But yeah - I'm sure both products are doing the same damn thing of course which is to lower that lag time in the throttle plate opening up based on the pedal sensor.

I'm aware that "mashing the pedal" might not be identical, because the PC will re-map how the throttle input is received, but the PC logically cannot do anything beyond re-mapping the throttle input. The only connection is unplugging the throttle pedal and connecting the PC in-line.

I'm not arguing that I wouldn't like it (I still think about buying one on-and-off because the stock throttle mapping and shift points, especially light acceleration when the car upshifts around 15mph into 3rd or whatever and feels like a slug, are absolute crap), I'm not arguing that it's not a great product, I'm saying the only thing the PC does is re-map throttle input, which when people want a more "responsive" throttle pedal is essentially the exact same thing as mashing your foot further down on a stock car.

The only suggestion I can make is to buy one and try it out. What I have highlighted in bold was exactly my thoughts about the PC and SB before I actually had one installed. It's much more than just mashing the throttle further. "Responsiveness", to me, is not synonymous with just mashing your foot further to take up the slop on this truck (excessive travel IMO). The PC tightens up the throttle response and can be more in line with many sports cars if you want it to be.

I equated it to having a button on the floor and on this GO button is either a sponge or a brick. No matter how fast you stomp that sponge it will never compress fast enough to hit that button faster than the brick nor to the same degree of depth thus altering shift times as well. LOL Rather simplistic explanation but got the point across to a friend.

I get where you're coming from, but what you're missing is how the truck drives with one vs. without one. It makes the truck respond to your inputs like a vehicle with 270hp should, rather than being left wondering where all your power is. And it does all this...without having to drive it like you stole it! I struggled with the purchase price myself, but I would never drive a 5th gen without one.

But they aren't needed for every application. I also have a GX470, also throttle by wire, but it doesn't suffer the same issues as the 5th gen does with throttle input delays, for example. The factory TBW calibration on 5th gens is really just awful.