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-   -   Power Stop Z23 v z36 pads (on oem rotors?) (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/281956-power-stop-z23-v-z36-pads-oem-rotors.html)

gn9119 01-18-2020 11:09 AM

Power Stop Z23 v z36 pads (on oem rotors?)
 
About to do a brake job on my 06 V8. Just got it and there is a shudder at times on braking. I tried to get a look at the rear pads with my phone cam and it seems the inside pads is wore about all the way down while the outer one has a lot of pad left. Is this the sign of a seized caliper? Anyway, i'll cross that bridge when i actually get it all disassembled, but i'm trying to pick out a decent pad set and was eyeing the Z23/36 ceramic/carbon fiber pads.

Won't do much towing, but plan on hauling my miata around once i score a trailer.

I was leaning toward the Z23 power stop pads, but the Power stop site recommends the Z36, which is more tow-specific (has steel shims, opposed to Z23s rubberized). I'm sure i could do some towing with the Z23 w/o problem, but they cost more than the Z36s. I'm thinking the Z36s might have a bit more noise, which is something that i'd rather not deal with on a daily driver.

Also, these pads are sold as kits with slotted and drilled rotors. I don't really want to get slotted/drilled rotors. I asked PStop if i they have issues running either of these pads on flat rotors and i got a luke-warm response about it not being an issue on the 1 or 2 occasions they have done it. Was looking at centric mid-grade rotors. The PStop OEM are cheap cheap, but i try not to go bottom dollar on stuff like this (brakes).

long/short, any feedback on either of these pad sets on regular rotors?

thanks for assistance.

jbtvt 01-18-2020 01:05 PM

I did a fair bit of towing with a Z23 setup and their drilled slotted rotors on my GX. Stopping power was comparable to any other midrange setup with fresh rotors. If you go from one type of compound to another like ceramic to SM, or even some compounds within same family without turning or changing rotors you'll likely lose way more stopping power than you would between either pad setup. Pad material needs to bed in to rotors.

I won't buy Power Stop again though, shitty biz practices. The pads have no squealer/wear indicators, unless they've changed design which I doubt. Didn't think much of it at the time since I figured I'd notice pad wear in time but I didn't, and it cost me a whole new rotor setup because I toasted one front and one rear a week apart (only had time to change fronts at first and figured what are the odds rears would go immediately after).

So instead of replacing pads every 40k, you'll likely also need to replace rotors as well, unless you're actually as good about checking wear as I thought I'd be, or fortunate enough to hear that telltale grinding for the first time right as you pull into your driveway with new pads right there ready to go in. And of course... Powerstop is happy to sell them to you! Something tells me the squealer elimination wasn't an accident.

When I switched to the Powerstop kit from the setup that was on the truck when I bought it, I recall noticing an improvement in brake grab, possibly due to pad compound or just rotors not being bedded properly by the previous owner. After I got pissed at them for costing me an extra $100+ last change, I switched to Beck Arnley true friction ceramics and a lower end Centric unslotted, undrilled rotor. Stopping performance did not appear to change in the least. The BA pads were also much cheaper than even the Z23s, bonus, and they have squealers.

Edit to add, make sure you have decent and properly adjusted brakes on the trailer either way. I can't speak to fade performance, but I've towed on some really mountainous terrain and fade from heat has never been an issue with any pads. Even back in the days when I had to tow unbraked trailers. If it is, IMO, it's a driver issue.

084RUNNAH 01-18-2020 01:09 PM

I purchased front and rear Z36 for my truck but only installed the rear at the moment. They only make noise when cold, only when I first use the brakes from sitting.

I went with the Z36 because of my tire size and extra weight along with occasional towing. Another reason for them is because the rear seem to be wearing brakes faster than my fronts.

Hope that helps. About the fronts, I am currently using Akebono ASP pads which work well and makes no noise. I will keep the set until I change them out when worn

gn9119 01-18-2020 07:57 PM

i was set on getting Akebono because everyone else does, then i do what i do and talk my self out of it and look for something not as popular but maybe cheaper (not in this case) and just as or more effective. May reconsider them...

Quote:

Originally Posted by 084RUNNAH (Post 3427056)
I purchased front and rear Z36 for my truck but only installed the rear at the moment. They only make noise when cold, only when I first use the brakes from sitting.

I went with the Z36 because of my tire size and extra weight along with occasional towing. Another reason for them is because the rear seem to be wearing brakes faster than my fronts.

Hope that helps. About the fronts, I am currently using Akebono ASP pads which work well and makes no noise. I will keep the set until I change them out when worn


gn9119 01-18-2020 08:06 PM

Thank you for your response. I haven't considered the AB pads, though did see them listed on RAuto. I'll check em out.


Quote:

Originally Posted by jbtvt (Post 3427052)
I did a fair bit of towing with a Z23 setup and their drilled slotted rotors on my GX. Stopping power was comparable to any other midrange setup with fresh rotors. If you go from one type of compound to another like ceramic to SM, or even some compounds within same family without turning or changing rotors you'll likely lose way more stopping power than you would between either pad setup. Pad material needs to bed in to rotors.

I won't buy Power Stop again though, shitty biz practices. The pads have no squealer/wear indicators, unless they've changed design which I doubt. Didn't think much of it at the time since I figured I'd notice pad wear in time but I didn't, and it cost me a whole new rotor setup because I toasted one front and one rear a week apart (only had time to change fronts at first and figured what are the odds rears would go immediately after).

So instead of replacing pads every 40k, you'll likely also need to replace rotors as well, unless you're actually as good about checking wear as I thought I'd be, or fortunate enough to hear that telltale grinding for the first time right as you pull into your driveway with new pads right there ready to go in. And of course... Powerstop is happy to sell them to you! Something tells me the squealer elimination wasn't an accident.

When I switched to the Powerstop kit from the setup that was on the truck when I bought it, I recall noticing an improvement in brake grab, possibly due to pad compound or just rotors not being bedded properly by the previous owner. After I got pissed at them for costing me an extra $100+ last change, I switched to Beck Arnley true friction ceramics and a lower end Centric unslotted, undrilled rotor. Stopping performance did not appear to change in the least. The BA pads were also much cheaper than even the Z23s, bonus, and they have squealers.

Edit to add, make sure you have decent and properly adjusted brakes on the trailer either way. I can't speak to fade performance, but I've towed on some really mountainous terrain and fade from heat has never been an issue with any pads. Even back in the days when I had to tow unbraked trailers. If it is, IMO, it's a driver issue.


riceandpho 01-19-2020 11:43 PM

i would just resurface the rotors and use another pad, been using the hawk lts pad, seems pretty good for me.
i tried the powerstop slotted and crossdrilled rotors, they are ok, some how i had some brake fade when i used ebc yellow stuff pads.
got rid of that setup when it was timed and used only power slot rotors and hawk pads, never failed me now. new fluid and new ss lines.


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